How much power can this swap give you if you have a 21/4" exhaust and header?
until someone actually does a before and after dyno, we will never know. <br>
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/jiggamon/personal_pic.jpg">
^^thanks for the info <br>
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anytime.
<br>
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/jiggamon/personal_pic.jpg">
well guys im willing to do a dyno run, i wanna install the cams as soon as possible in my 99 z24, the only problem is i got screwed a few weeks ago ont he classifieds. The supposed "secret cams" came and the werent the right ones, well the intake cam was right, but the exhasut cam wasnt, so to make it short i need an exhasut cam to complete this swap, anyone got one cheap, and if so, please drop me an email at jcarl_19@yahoo.com i really wanna do the swap asap, and i have access to a dyno just about anytime i want, my uncle owns P&G performance in Niagara falls and i can get these tested for pretty much free. Drop me a line and help me out
sweet deal. someone is going to do a before and after dyno.
Just out of curiosity, what exhaust cam did you get?
Check eBay, you might be able to find one on there. <br>
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/jiggamon/personal_pic.jpg">
Back from the dead....
anyone hear anything about doing a Dyno yet? I mean, shoot.... If i knew where i could dyno my car around here and do before and after, i could try and order the Cams and do it in a month or two and post the sheets.... But you'd have to gimme time.... does anyone <I>have</I> dyno sheets for it? <br>
Pete (ld9chevmali) wrote:I just checked and those are the same casting numbers as the exhaust cam thats sitting under my bed. Just make sure its from a 2.3 LO not HO
Best way to make sure that its the proper cam is to check the lobe lift with a digital caliper. Measure the width of the lobe at its thinnest point (across its circular diameter), than subtract this from the reading taken from the thickest point (across from the tip of the lobe to its back). That's the lift.
The 90-94 LD2 exhaust cam will ahve a lift of .375" If its more or less, than its the wrong cam. If the cam is used, it may be 1-2 thousands under .375". <br>
<a href="http://www.quad4forums.com/~darkfox">
<img border="0" src="http://www.quad4forums.com/~darkfox/head.jpg" width="398" height="73">
Damn it did I get the wrong cams? Gm part numbers 24574239(intake) 22545390(exhaust) <br>
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*** I WISH I HAD A COOL SIG TOO!!!***
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2.4 CavaWeir~do you have any kind of aftermarket computer to control fuel or a wideband o2 to monitor fuel? Just curious.
99CavyZ ~ Black ~ 5-Speed
"If It Bleeds For A Week Straight, How Come It Doesn't Die!?"
stock 99Z computer.
No fuel mods for the motor I am running now. I have not planned that out yet for the new motor. I am still undecided.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
oh ok....just from what i've heard it changed your fuel curve which makes you need more fuel at certain RPM's and you need to take it out at others...if that makes sense.
How do you like your P&P head? how much did it run you?
I'm sure it pulls hard w/ the cams and head.
99CavyZ ~ Black ~ 5-Speed
"If It Bleeds For A Week Straight, How Come It Doesn't Die!?"
Actually the secret cams are well within the limits of the stock computer. It can compensate for the increased flow. Now if you are running a stage 2 type cam, you might want to monitor it a bit.
My P&P head ran me about $75 for the head itself. To break it down:
Used head from junkyard: $75
Clean, port and polish: FREE - I did it myself.
Stainless Valves: $200
3-angle Valve job: $150 at local machine shop
Mantapart Stiffer Valve springs: $100
So complete with parts, $525.
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
