well Lurch sent me this link and I havea few things to say

PLEASE dont jump down these guy's throats!!! THEY ARE TRYING everything they can! they arent screwing you guys over.. yeah I have problems and lost a lot of money in dynoing and gas.. I get 200 miles to the tank!

my monster cams were much worse then these and hopefully are sending them back soon LOL... college sucks

I really think we should just wait it out and they will figure something out..


btw darkstars I agree with you, some days my car is an effing beast some days its.. blahhh



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

BOOSTED QBE wrote:btw darkstars I agree with you, some days my car is an effing beast some days its.. blahhh

i third that. but my car hates me so its more blahh then beast



MY 2003 SUNFIRE

i want a solution to fall out of the sky too. i am glad to see that more than one person is trying to find a solution for this though. insulating the knock sensor sounded like a good idea as far as i know it did not cure it. our cars are new, i think i just read the other day that new one owner cars do not need to be tested for emissions for 6 yearsand the ecotec started showing up in 02 that still would leave 3 years. if they went to plug in and saw that box they night not even test the car. that box would work for a temporary deal, but i think we need to find out what sensor is actually making the ecu think that its misfiring, and go from there. i would like to do more performance wise to my car, but i dont want to compound the problem. i dont get the code very often. and i want to keep it that way. i mean i would prefer notto have it, but i dont want to clear it daily

almost garaunteed its a crankshaft position sensor that is causing the misfire signal, for the fact that it is sensing a flinch in the crank rotation which would also be caused by an actual misfire. which would also explain why it only comes on at idle because at higher rpm's the crank is spinning so fast it doesnt pick up the flinch as much to set the CEL. but when at idle its loping alot and its more exagerated. just my theory anyways.

and the insulating washer did work. it stopped Darksars timing from being retarded and let it advance like it should.

It did stop the timing form retarding back to zero degrees but the car still feels about the same. the timing seems very sparadic, off idle just reving in nuetral it will sit at 24 degrees advanced, which is what a stock eco does, which is making me wonder why the cams don't want to make power. On my way to work this mourning my car was pulling preaty good (still only feels a little faster then what stock performance should be) I got a cel during lunch twice, both times I cleared it. On the way home form work I could launch my car from 2500 and not even a squeek out of the tires, with me laying on the trottle I prolly pulled about 3 car lenthes ahead of the dodge minivan driving normal next to me from a dead stop to about 50. I'm no gonna give up on the cams quite yet, I'm trying to hold out till you guys can come up with a solution. The box that would delete the codes as they apear... my car is still slow when the lights off, so basically I'd have a higly modded car making the power of a stock cavi but the CEL wont be on all the time anymore....

Darkstars, you probably have the same problem I have, just with the added CELs and such. Once I get higher, 5000rpm plus, my car pulls, below that, it sucks. I'd say that if you try out the higher rpms, you might notice more power.

I'm also wondering if these cams stole power from me still. I'm tempted to swap them back to stock and get dyno tuned again with the SAFC.

Anyone possible interested in a set of "high performance 15whp gain cams that cause you not to lose bottom end power and won't throw a CEL?"

well i'm having the same problems as darkstars along with the CEL. but with my car i still think its b/c of the outside temp. like is said before the CEL went away the other day when it was like 48-50 degrees out. for darkstars he as a lot more mods then i do so it is prolly different case then me.



MY 2003 SUNFIRE

I just noticed this thread today.... and I have a bit of something to add here:

2 years ago I put in a stage 5 Race head... fully ported, gasket matched, enlarged combustion chambers, new valvetrain - the works. Anything that could be taken out of the head was taken out. I then slapped in some secret cams and awaited the inevitable 14's that were gonna happen....

I ran it at the track. 16.4.... I ran it 10 times that day. ALL 16.4's... my best was a 16.3...

I was appalled! I couldn't chirp 3rd at all - in fact... it bogged into gear. BOGGED....

Then on the street I noticed something. I had no torque below 3000 rpm. None at all. The car was apalling.

I brought the car back and had the Hybrid Cams taken out... .org members protested saying it couldn't be the cams... it couldn't.... so many ppl had succss with them... but the thing is - none of them had a head like mine.

We put the stockers back in - and voila. There was my bottom end again. The car STILL suffers (to this day) with bogging into gear - I can't chirp 2nd to save my life. But at least I have torque back.

What I'm getting at is - I heavily suspect my head... I think it's overported. It flows too much... and while I'm going boosted and that flow will help me a lot - it REALLY killed my N/A engine. Badly.

I ran it at the track this fall with the stock cams... I ran a 16.3 with a worse 60' and a slower trap speed...

I have a feeling what you're all seeing is too much flow through the cams. What might seem like a mild grind could quite possibly be the reason for all your headaches... not the timing of the cams - but the cams themselves.

I outflowed hybrids with my heavily ported LD9 head - could you all possibly be doing the same thing?

-Chris-



-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...