Misnblu wrote:What O2 sensor did you use or are using?
If it's the Bosch, that could be causing your code.
Good luck with it.
I'm running a Bosch and no issues, and so are others.
FU Tuning
I forget what sensor I am using, I am pretty sure its not a bosch because I haven't heard anything good about it on our cars. I got it from a local autoparts store, its been a while.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Back from the dead..dont know why the hell I still havnt done this but Im about to.
on a 00+ with no secondary o2(HPT deleted), the extra 2 unused wires can go to any ground and switched 12v source? Whats a good underhood power source to use?
icemike89 wrote:Back from the dead..dont know why the hell I still havnt done this but Im about to.
on a 00+ with no secondary o2(HPT deleted), the extra 2 unused wires can go to any ground and switched 12v source? Whats a good underhood power source to use?
Just because you turned off the code for the rear O2 sensor does not mean you can't still use the wiring for this. It is still there and works.
FU Tuning
So I could use the wiring harness side?
icemike89 wrote:So I could use the wiring harness side?
yes the wiring still works. It you connected a sensor into it the sensor would still work. All you can do with HPT is disable the code, it does not turn the function off.
FU Tuning
Omg search worked!!! I have a p0133 slow sensor 1 bank 1 response, after install of my pacesetter header. And this also throws my ets off light on which i posted in the tranny section. And also blows my pcm/bcm fuses. Anyway jsut a quick question so that i understand.
1) The rear 02 sensor (behind my resonator or some people cats) is Heated, and is Four wires. My header o2 sensor is not and this is causing the probelm.
2) Im tapping into the second o2 sensor connecting the two wires which supply heat, too my new 4 wire header sensor , to help car go into closed loop faster???
If my understanding is correct i have a few quesitons. 1) does this not interfere with the after cat sensors heating capabilities, and i was told not to splice o2 sensors by my mechanic since they run off low millivolts?? please some answers.
Oh and if i did tap into the after cat heater wires, how do i re attach the heater wires back to after the cat sensor??
Generally, your mechanic is right.
With 30 years of electronics behind me, I would say the same. This is why I provided a separate 12 volt source, ground, and tied it all in from under the dash.
It works perfectly with this setup and have turn on voltage for the 4 wire front O2 sensor while not having to touch the rear sensor.
Others have tapped into their rear sensor with no problems but this is the way I didn't want to go due to voltage drops and having to rob power from the rear sensor.
On attaching the wires to the rear O2 sensor, this can be done far up the wires and not at the sensors themselves.
This is much easier to do and won't effect the performance of your connections at the sensors and will also be able to change them at their quick connect plugs associated with each sensor.
Hope this answers your question and I'm sure that others will chime in with their opinions also.
Good luck with it and with you having the Pacesetter header, the mod will alleviate alot of problems with an O2 sensor that is far removed from the original position.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
So your explanation/post is dealing with how you yourself fixed this problem?? Because i still dont know how taking the two heated wires from the second sensor is rewired back to that sensor so that IT is still heated. I know very little about wiring although i did solder the extension for my header sensor very well.
also, while your way sounds to me anyway much better, i have no idea how to hook up a key/ignition power supply. That once you turn your car on this power supply provides the power to the heater wire for the first(header) sensor. although if i did it would work awesome, other than the long ass wires need to run the power wire.
I took the time to mount a buss bar under the dash, hidden, and out of the way.
On that buss bar, I set up a bar for 12 volt turn on and the other bar for constant 12 volt power.
The turn on lead was wired into the fuel pump fuse on the dash fuse box, hooked that wire to a bosch relay which when turned on, would let a hot wire from the battery run the 12volt turn on bar come alive. This same hot wire from the battery (8 gauge, rope style wire) is tied into the constant 12volt buss bar.
So now I have the bar under the dash to run wires to with no more wires going to the fuse box which could lead to wiring problems down the road and making it look like a mess.
With this said, I left the rear O2 sensor along, never touching it at all.
This is how I made up my harness so that I have a quick connect for the front O2 sensor in case I ever need to change it.
The separate brown wire you see that is short is the actual O2 sensor wire which would tie into the factory purple wire of your harness which is the O2 sensor.
The other wires are tun to the under dash where I hook up my ground, 12volt turn on, and that comprises how I did mine.
Since I had the vision to see into the future with lots of gauges being hooked up and other accessories, the buss bars under the dash were a great idea for me as they give me easy access to add wires and stays hidden where no one can see them.
Hope this helps a little.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
So to tap into the second o2 sensor your just cut away some of the plastic wrapping and splice the universal 2 heating wires into power and ground, solder then shrink wrap???? So there is no adverse effects of tapping into the second o2 sensor for this mod?? doesn't this take away the second o2 sensors heating ability??
lowslowcav wrote:So to tap into the second o2 sensor your just cut away some of the plastic wrapping and splice the universal 2 heating wires into power and ground, solder then shrink wrap???? So there is no adverse effects of tapping into the second o2 sensor for this mod?? doesn't this take away the second o2 sensors heating ability??
You're using the 12volts from the second O2 sensor and yes, you're literally taking away some of the power that it uses to heat up the element in the sensor.
Now I'm not saying that this won't work but I'm not one to find out or to take such a chance.
If this is what you want to do then do so and you seem to have a good basis of how to do it.
Good luck and it should work fine.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
You're not taking away power from the sensor as much as putting an extra load on the wires leading up to the splice. IIRC the fuse for the rear O2 is 20 amps, and as long as wiring both O2 sensors in parallel doesn't exceed 20 amps, or more specifically the wires ampacity rating then there will be no problem. Personally i just went with a bosch relay with the coil wired up to lead that's hot with the ignition on.
So i got my 4 wire o2 sensor wired up. Slipced the heater part of the new sensor to the heater wire of the rear o2, and grounded to on the block. Should i put a larger fuse in for the increased load?? right now its a 10amp fuse for the o2 sensor heater???
No, don't do it.
Just keep it at 10 amps and you'll be fine.
Most that have done it the way you did have not experienced any issues with the fuses.
So get out there, crank it up, and enjoy man. You're set.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
ok man. ya we hooked up the snap on diagnostic tool/scanner and the o2 sensor signal is much stronger and is not flat-lining. Fuel trim is better as well. Thanks for all the info and advice Misnblu really appreciate it man.
Glad you got it going man.
It's one of the best mods using a header.
Enjoy man.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Yeah upsizing the fuse is never a good answer. Depending on the gauge wire and insulation going from 10A to 20A protection could very well exceed the wires ampacity. Don't know why I was thinking it was 20A earlier. Good to hear the sensor worked out for you. I know my car runs smoother than the day I bought it after going to a heated O2.
I just did this mod over the weekend. I've always had the cold start up stumble / loss of power, but I figured I'd always have it due to having the GM s/c and pacesetter header. Now that I changed it over, it seems like the engine is smoother, and doesn't have that cold start up stumble.
The main reason I did this is because I kept getting an OBD "not ready" for the O2 sensor, which would cause me to fail my emissions test. When doing a drive cycle, it'd come up as slow circuit pending if you were able to get it to trigger.
I used Bosch sensor 15732 and it seems to work just fine
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Sounds good man.
Another happy customer of the mod.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
And finally passed by emissions test today, w00t
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
WOOT
That's what I'm talking about.
Congrats man.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Hi guys, sorry for digging this up. Im looking at
this walker 3-wire sensor . Just wondering if this one will fit my 97 2.4L cavalier. Thanks
