EDIT: 08/2012 --- Here is a good write up with photos on how to make the oil pan - http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=478382&t=478382
Ok, I am getting about 3 PM's a week on how to do this swap and I thought I would post all the info up on here. I did not write this stuff, but I read over it and it is all accurate. There are two different methods, but they are basically exactly the same, and I am sure that almost anyone can do the swap. There are pro's and con's for the swap, but this is not a flame thread, just for infomational purposes, so if you are interested and have made up your mind that this swap is for you, then read on, if not, you might as well be on your way.
I am not taking credit for the pics or the write ups, but they were sent to me, If you are the originator PM me and we will get your name added.
for another 6 page write up, please see this link: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=329512&t=329512&p=1
Instruction set 1
Here is the how to for doing the 2.3 oil pump conversion, so that hopefully all those who search from hereon will find something solid.
The how to comes from Mantapart (thanks Tim) and it seems to work.
Crank Gear for the pump:
Windage Tray: 22536409
Baffle Stud: 22542521 x2
Baffle Bolt: 22540299 x2
Oil Pick Assembly: 22539133
Bolt To Screen: 11516802 x2
Nut For Brace: 22535081 x2
Bolt Flange Head: 11516061 x2
Oil Pump Bolts To Block: 14050422 x2
Locator Pins For Pump: 22531530 x2
2.4 TC Crankshaft Modifications (Replacing the oil pump drive gears)
The 2.4L crank drive gear must be carefully heated and pressed or tapped off the crank. Be careful not to damage the crank surfaces or apply a lot of heat to the crank. The new oil pump drive gear should be heated and pressed back onto the crank. Use a brass hammer only if needed so you do not damage the teeth.
2.4L TC Block Modifications (These need to be done by a qualified machinist)
The oil passages to the pump must be re-machined to match the 2.3L pump. This operation must be done with the engine apart since it will require thorough cleaning when finished. Make a template from the right side of the oil pump that includes the bolt holes, oil passage and dowel pin holes. Lay it over the bolt hole on the block and carefully center and indicate the large oil hole center. This hole must be started and then drilled at an angle to intersect the horizontal oil passage that runs below it on the block. If you look from the back side of the block you will see where the passage pipe plug comes out. Draw a line on center with it and the hole center punch you have indicated and that is the angle the hole must be drilled. Drill the hole small and then increase drill sizes up to 9/16”. You will break through the casting and then drill into the oil passage casting. Make sure the final drill with the 9/16” bit is done slowly and smoothly, since you have to install the 2”x9/16” sleeve afterwards. Cool the sleeve and coat it with sealant. Gently tap it into the hole until it is flush with the block deck. Remove the oil galley plug to clean the passage and make sure the sleeve does not protrude into the oil passage bore.
Mount the pump up to the block and square it with the back of the block and snug it down gently. Take a small center punch and indicate the right side dowel pin hole into the block. Remove the pump and drill the hole to size #A machinist bit about 5/16” deep and then tap the dowel pin into the hole. Block the existing oil holes on the bottom of the 2.4L block: You must block the passages on the #3 and #4 main bosses on the bottom of the block, also. The larger angled hole can be tapped to a 3/8NPT (May require re-drilling to 37/64”) Remove the small round sleeve next to the hole first. And the smaller hole on the #3 boss needs to be drilled to a #R Machinist drill and tapped to 1/8NPT. The best is to use flush Allen pipe plugs and coat them with pipe sealant.
Install the pump on studs on #4 main bosses. A 14mm plug or short bolt can be installed in the other hole on the #3 boss. The sheet metal oil pickup holes will need to be slotted or you can carefully braze 2 small washers on it to line up with the studs that are installed on the #4 boss holes.
Fit the windage tray up – you will have to bend the left side up some to clear the thicker oil pan flange rail on the block. You will also have to enlarge the two holes at the studs to fit onto them. You will then have to indicate and drill two new holes for the windage tray front on the #2 boss flange area also. We suggest either a 3/8-16” coarse or 10mm x 1.5 thread bolts here, about ¾” (20mm) long.
2.3L Pump Modifications (The pump comes supplied with all other mounting hardware, etc)
The bottom boss on the oil pump must be ground down to clear the bottom of the 2.4 oil pan and the oil pickup may have to be moved up some to make proper clearance with the bottom of the pan. Make some trial fits with the pan and pump with the old oil pan gasket on the block to ensure proper fit. Some pans may require grinding and/or welding (aluminum) on the pan also for clearance. Make sure the pickup is not flat against the bottom of the pan.
Instruction set 2
Lol, so who thinks that this is easy, raise their hand??
Well I don't think so.
First off, thanks to Todd for all the instructions to how to do this, but let me write on it.
Well first off you have to get a 2.3L oil pump, Vin A, D OR 3 they are all the same.
What I did is I found a single cam 2.3L yanked a pump off it and used it as a practice pump, so that way all the shavings that you get in it, who cares.
I took, a oil pump, the bracket that holds the pick up tube, the pick up tube, windage tray and all the bolts and stuff and went to work.
The pump WILL mount over the #5 main cap and ain't got to worry about that, but it also has a little dowel pins that have to be put in the block.
I have to check the pictures on which hole has to be plugged off, but if I remember correctly, it is a big feed hole under or about the #4 main cap (depends on how you are looking at it) and 2 holes above and below the #3 main cap. (have to be pluged off).
Now weather you weld those shut or tep them or whatever, they cannot have any oil going through them.
I welded the #4, and tapped the #3 holes.
Now what you have to drill is a new feed hole that goes through #5 main cap and not the #4.
You put some kind of goo or something on the bottom of the pump and place it and screw it down so that way it will mark where you have to drill.
and drill it down, and in.
This is where it becomes tricky, there is a oil hole that goes from the oil filter to the #4 that is the original one that you are plugging off, and you have to find it and see what I am talking about and then make another feed hole.
There is a pipe plug right by your rear main seal, unscrew it and you can see the oil filter neck throught it.
Drill down and then through the edge of the #5 main cap wall so that way you can meet with the main passage.
Then you have to plug it off so that oil doesn't drain out of it before it reaches the pump.
It is hard to explain, but I have the pictures to show what I am talking about.
Then you are almost done.
Drill holes and tep them above and under #2 main cap, those and #4's you are going to use for the windage tray.
and if you see how the pick up tube is mounted orriginally, on the 2.3's you will see that for #4 you are going to need studs and a couple of nuts for each 1st to hold the windage tray to the block and then to hold the bracket for the windage tray.
Windage needs to be modified slightly to fit.
Pan needs to be cut, the bottom of it and the tranny side and a coupl of ridges shaved off inside. All of the bolts I used blue loctite on them, so that they don't come off, and that is about it.
One more thing you are going to have to take the sprocket of the crank and press the gear on it.
I got the part # for the gear. If yall need it.
Also the oil pump may need to be shimmed, be careful.
I took the block with the pump on it to the machine shop and told the guy I need these holes welded and I need this oil pan to fit on this block with this pump, so cut it, weld it , do whatever you need to, but make sure it fits, and it cost me about $175 for it.
So who STILL wanna do this?????????? lol
If someone wanna post the pics. here I will send them so that you can post them.
I would balance the crank after that because the weight of the sprocket and the gear might differ and it WILL throw the crank off BALANCE.
See if any of these help...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Friday, August 03, 2012 9:35 PM
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