Oil pressure question - Performance Forum
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I just finished putting in a auto meter ultra lite temp and a oil gauge, the temp is working fine but the oil is acting a little weird.
When the car is cold the oil is at 60psi at high revs its at about 80psi, after the car is nice and warm the pressure drops to about 35psi and will only go up to around 50psi, but i was chillin with a few buddies at a coffee shop during the night when I got there at idol the pressure was at 35psi and around 45mins later the gauge was at 50psi.
It stayed at the pressure for most of the night, so i got on the highway and got the car up to 6500rpm and the highest reading i got was 60psi.
When I got home at idol it was back to 35psi, im just wondering if the pressure is suppose to go up and down like this all the time.
The motor is a 00k 2.4 and the gauge is mechanical, it's also hooked up to a t fitting with factory sensor at the side of the head, and im not seeing any leaks anywhere if any of this makes any difference.
So im just wondering what should the pressure be at when at idol, and what the highest point it should reach.
Thanks for any help that I can get.
It's completly normal. Cold oil will have more pressure.
Btw, I hope you didn't left your car running on idle for 45min.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
a lot of people are surprized when they go to a mechanical gauge. You see a lot more then you do with a electtric
1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback
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Btw, I hope you didn't left your car running on idle for 45min.
Why would'nt you want your car to idle for 45min?? Just out of curiosity?
Just Wait and See..........
The oil is not getting cool down so the oil get thinner, so the oil give less protection and wear get worst.
Then the water temp goes up because the water pump doesn't turn fast enough. So your head get hot, the block get hot. The head expand faster than the block witch tend to work the head too much since the temps is going up. The you heat up your head gasket and the block witch can cause a gasket leak with time.
There's another reason too. The oil pump doesn't turn really fast so oil pressure is down. You let it idle, oil get hotter so thinner, the pump get less oil up and have less pressure. So you have more wear on your cam/valve train and it's harder for your lifter. Then the oil is hotter than normal so it make your cam housing and valve train assembly expand witch will cause trouble with time. More wear. Same thing is happening to the crank at the same time. Your rods/main bearing get hotter and everything expand witch will create space and eat some Hp with time and cause wear and possible breakdown.
Another thing is that you kill your oil doing so. If you have dyno oil, it will loose alot of it's protection. If you have a full syntectic oil, is getting wear too.
Another thing is why do you want to let it idle for 45 min? what's the point?
Gilles
2.3 Ho
I live in Toronto and it's damn cold i need my heat, I know it's not the best thing to leave the car running like that for a long time, I just forget half of the time to shut the car off.
I was talking to a friend and he said that you want 10 psi for every 1000rpm thats why im having some concern, even when she's nice and warm i can get it up to 6500rpm and the gauge wont go past 50psi at times, so by what he's saying the motor has 15psi to little in the top end.
I just worry alot i did a lot of racing with this car back 2 years ago and the motor got nuked and showed signs of oil starvation, I just don't feel like nuking another motor.
first - he doesn't know alot about cars. You don't need 10psi per 1000rpm otherwise I would be at 76psi on the redline. That in't true
your numbers are right. 15 psi is what you are suppose to have on idle when the engine is at operating temperature. 50 seems riught at 6500 but the 2.4 pump is weak and you'll spin #3 bearing if you beat it too much.
your friend is wrong about the 1000rpm for 10 psi.
a 2.3 is suppose to have 15 at 900rpm and 35 at 2000. so right there you see that it's not true.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
So is there anthing that I can do to make the oil pump better, I have around 10,000 grand invested into this motor, and i do know about the #3 bearing it went in the first motor along with the valves, the piston rings, the crank, both cams, and the balance shaft.
What can i say when i nuke them i nuke them good, I'm trying to get this car to run low 14's this spring and i really don't wont any serious engine problems to deal with, so any help with getting better oil help would be great
check the Faq at the first or second page for the 2.3 oil pump swap. That will solve your oil starvation problem
Gilles
2.3 Ho
This sucks I'm gonna have to rip that motor apart again, I should have bought the IROC when I had the chance.
Well I guess it's time to buy a beater and get back to work.
Thanks for all the good info guys
ugh slap yourself now ,iroc, please never ever would i have those words uttered from my mouth just my opinion talk to people who have gotten rid of their j-s like losing their first born! sorry i hate it when people talk badly of j-bodies
"dude, thats a girls car"
Quote:
The oil is not getting cool down so the oil get thinner, so the oil give less protection and wear get worst.
Then the water temp goes up because the water pump doesn't turn fast enough. So your head get hot, the block get hot. The head expand faster than the block witch tend to work the head too much since the temps is going up. The you heat up your head gasket and the block witch can cause a gasket leak with time.
There's another reason too. The oil pump doesn't turn really fast so oil pressure is down. You let it idle, oil get hotter so thinner, the pump get less oil up and have less pressure. So you have more wear on your cam/valve train and it's harder for your lifter. Then the oil is hotter than normal so it make your cam housing and valve train assembly expand witch will cause trouble with time. More wear. Same thing is happening to the crank at the same time. Your rods/main bearing get hotter and everything expand witch will create space and eat some Hp with time and cause wear and possible breakdown.
Another thing is that you kill your oil doing so. If you have dyno oil, it will loose alot of it's protection. If you have a full syntectic oil, is getting wear too.
Another thing is why do you want to let it idle for 45 min? what's the point?
There really is not a point I was curious because on some cold mornings my ill warm my car up and it'll sit running for a good 20 minutes at the most sometimes.....It just caught my attention...But thanks for breaking it down for me!
Just Wait and See..........
Ummmm..... mfk-223: Doesn't the oil get thicker as the temp. rises?
Take for instance 5w-30. The W means winter (aka: cold)
So it is 5 viscosity when cold and 30 v when warm. So it would be thicker when warm. The thicker oil would provide greater protection than the cold oil.
There is also less mechanical wear when the car is at operating temps.
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(Tom)- oil gets thinner at operating temperature....think about it this way if you take say maple syrop and pour it it will run thick and slowly but slap it in the microwave for a few mins and it pours like water....same with oil...as it gets warmer it runs easier...therefore the easier it flows the less resistance there is which equals less pressure..its quite regular for the oil pressure to be lower when the engine is running at its operating temp..other than that MFK-223 hit the nail on the head with his explanations
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Also which oil is thinner a 0w-20 or a 20w-50. The higher #'s represent thicker oils. The 0w-20 will flow like water and the 20w-50 will flow relatively slow. And you can't really relate maple syrup to motor oils.
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Your buddy is right 10 psi per 1000 rpm is the standard for most modern engines.What he did not mention is there is a pressure relief at the pump that regulates maximum oil pressure.There is nothing wrong with your engine! The reason you see a oil pressure difference between hot and cold operation is just as every one said oil viscosity.Plus some folks do not know that your oil filter has a pressure relief (bypass valve} built in to it.If your oil filter is plugged or the oil viscosity is to great cold start - 20 deg c oil is routed around the filter media instead of threw it and then to the crank, rods,and last the cams and valve train.That is why when you first start your engine in the morning your top end is so noisy cause it gets oil last and cold oil thick oil is slow to pump to the top end of your engine.It also explains why your oil pressure gauge reads so much higher when the oil is cold even with oil pressure being regulated at the pump.
Thats Him Officer The WICKED One.
MUFF wrote:ugh slap yourself now ,iroc, please never ever would i have those words uttered from my mouth just my opinion talk to people who have gotten rid of their j-s like losing their first born! sorry i hate it when people talk badly of j-bodies
Hay I love my J I've put my car before everything and anything, hell I've lost good relationships over my car, my first one went face first into a wall at 80k I openly admit that I was in tears after that. I just had a chance to get a really nice iroc for a sweet price instead I stayed faithful to my J and bought another one.
I don't hate my car but when it comes down to it a 454 is a lot more easier to work on and a lot more reliable then a LD9.
This car keeps on kicking me in the ass yet she is still with me and I really don't think I could ever let her go.
true gotcha i was drunk when i read that apologies all around lol
"dude, thats a girls car"
Man, MFK, please stop the heresay!
10 psi per 1000 rpms is a basline rule. It is a minimum.
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first - he doesn't know alot about cars. You don't need 10psi per 1000rpm otherwise I would be at 76psi on the redline. That in't true
im not sure you know a whole lot about cars either. I just read another post you were a part of, and it seems that you like to just shoot off your mouth and tell people how much you know, or dont know, im not sure which one.
the kind of oil pressures angelus is experienceing are perfect. The reason the 2.4s are spinning the 3 rod bearing is PROBABLY a bad design in the oiling system. The oil system is causing the bearing to starve, not the oil pressure. Now, thats opinion (i own an ecotec and dont know much about the 2.4s), because ive 50 psi is plenty to supply an oil system. With 70 weight race oil my 396 BBC that pumps around 550 RWHP has only about 65 psi at redline.
as for the iroc, i bought a j and sold a trans am, that should make muff happy. However, i did keep the 65 el camino.
2004 Cavalier, 2.2L Ecotec
1965 El Camino, 396 BBC, 14:1, 800 BHP
I told my buddy he knows nothing about cars and he almost beat the @!#$ out of me, I know he knows what he is talking about, he built a 350 into a 386 stroker half asleep in his garage and it runs like a dream and demonchild it is sitting in a 78 trans am.
This car is a serious @!#$ neck snapper.
You ask for it.
ask any guy that know 2.4 and 2.3 and he will tell you to STFU. The 2.4 is too weak and there's not enough oil at high Rpm. That's why they go with a 2.3 pump.
And if the 10 psi per 1000rpm is a minimum. Then every 2.3 should blow at the first redline @sshole. You can't even explain how it works and YOU think you can tell ME that I don't know how the 2.3/2.4 engine works? You gotta be kidding me. What you ahve to understand is that a 350 adn a 2.4 is not the same freakin thing.
If I don't know how the eninge works, you must be a kid knowing nothing at all. Everybody can build an engine and it can run but how much Hp can he pull out of it is something different. I've seen people building engine but they were POS.
So unless you got FACT against what I say Demon, STFU. I've proove more than once that I know my quad and that alot of people telling me that I don't know my engine are always a bunch of loosers.
Like you said you don't know the 2.4 engine so don't say anything. You don't know them so you can't say anything about them.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
(Tom) wrote:Ummmm..... mfk-223: Doesn't the oil get thicker as the temp. rises?
Take for instance 5w-30. The W means winter (aka: cold)
So it is 5 viscosity when cold and 30 v when warm. So it would be thicker when warm. The thicker oil would provide greater protection than the cold oil.
There is also less mechanical wear when the car is at operating temps.
and.......
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