Joshua Dearman wrote:I've had to drill one of those bastards off once and it was a serious PITA. I always replace them with grade 8 bolts. Good luck man.
got 2 grade 10.9 bolts and got em and in... but i cannot find a damn socket to fit the head of the bolt while its behind the damn wheel bearing. My old wheel bearings were rusted to the old dust shield so i had to purchase 2 new wheel bearing... this is becoming a very expensive little upgrade.. Sure hope its worth it as much as everyone says it is. Hell i couldn't even get the old male 3/16ths connector out of the wheel cylander.
Guess i'll just visit GM tomorrow and order 2 new bolts for the ones i had to drill out.
I've found brembo part number 27206, which MIGHT be the 1/2" thick solid disc in 5x100 form (all the other 1/2" thick discs are 5x114). 27207 is the regular 3/8" thick disc everyone has on here. Someone might want to try this out if anyone wants slightly thicker discs.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Cinny wrote:T REX wrote:Viper98912 wrote:none of them are self adjusting.
Then how do you adjust the e-brake on 03+ cavi? my haynes manual says they are self adjusting.
Thats because your Haynes manual for the J-Body doesn't cover the Dodge Neon, those are the shoes in question here, they need to be done manually.
OK, how should that be done? I understand that the shoes are for a neon, however the e-brake cable is from the cavi.
on the neon setup, there's a screw with a star shaped gear on it that goes between both shoes. turn the gear to either open up or close more the distance between the shoes. this will cause the shoes to be closer or farther away to the drum, changing the amount of pull you need when you pull the ebrake handle.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Ok so they look pretty...
Old brake fluid was pretty much black note in the corona bottle.
I hate making new brake lines and in the end even after flushing Pretty much all of the connections were dripping. So i disassembled all the lines once more and re-flared everything off the car, Put the unions on one side as tight as i could get em, and i used Teflon tape on all the threads.
.... bled the rear brakes and yet my pedal still travels pretty much all the way to the floor... ??? WTF is with that? Is it possibly because the whole reservoir emptied it self twice completely empty and i haven't swapped the front brake lines over to the SS ones yet?
One more thing i noticed.... My hubcentric rings for my wheels don't even come close to sitting on the hub anymore after using 7/16ths washers behind the rotors. Will this be fine.
ok so...........u didn't really need to do the new brake lines thing. using SS lines from the original connections would have saved u all the trouble. as for the pedal, you definitely have air somewhere. make sure that your bleeder nipple on each caliper is at the 12 oclock position. if not, you've put the calipers on the wrong side. i had a small nipple leak where air would go back in through the nipple when cracking it open, which could be a cause for air in the lines. if you say you've completely emptied the reservoir, u might have sucked air into the MC, which absolutely sucks for you if you have an 00+. i dont believe there are bleeder nipples on the newer cavys (i know mine doesnt). only way to flush that out would be to take it to a dealer who can hook up a tech2 to cycle the abs pistons. as for the hub ring issue, i kinda have the same problem so what i might do is grind off the hub ring lip, and flip it around where it doesn't have the 45 degree chamfer so it'll grab more.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
1) I have a 99, i do remember seeing a bleeder valve on the MC ( thank god then)
2) All the bleeder valves are above the incoming brake lines ( so they are sitting higher) i figured that was the way the were meant to be installed.
3) I have all brand new Russell speed bleeders and i made sure were tight after i bled the rears.
4) My stock brake lines were all rusted out and so were the connections from the gas tank back.
I'm pretty sure i emptied the MC since when i went to fill back the reservoir it took quite a bit of fluid to start even seeing a noticeable rise in level. Well tomorrow then i guess i will swap in my new front calipers and lines and bleed the fronts and the little nipple on top of MC. My ABS light was on for a little while but only because i bent a prong in one of the wheel bearings and wasn't connected.
If this doesn't work, goodyear is just a 1/2 mile down the road and i can creep her there.
double check all your lines and make sure none have any small leaks letting air back into the lines.
wheres the bleeder screw in relation to the brake hose? if you have them on the wrong side you'll never get them bled right.
I used a vacuum bleeder for mine, did the trick the first time. you can "rent" one at autozone, its a little pricey but you get all your money back in the end.
Bleeder valve sits on top like this for both sides. I don't see anymore little dribbles coming from any of the connections anymore...
I'm going to bleed the fronts tonight and swap over to the new SS lines and try bleeding the valve thats on the nose of the MC.
Are these the correct bleeder valves for the MC/abs that i should do as well?
Nity9CavSedanCRJ (RDFABS) wrote:Put the unions on one side as tight as i could get em, and i used Teflon tape on all the threads.
omg, glad I've been lurking in this thread!
DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON BRAKE FITTINGS!
I was fairly certain that warnings re: this are all over them. Brake systems run ~1000psi. The tape will fail long before then and you will get a leak, which could result in brake pressure loss and subsequently an accident.
All brake fittings should be metal to metal contact, torqued to specified torque levels and no more (as over torqueing will deform mating surfaces). If you get fluid leaks or pressure loss then either you have a damaged fitting or in the case of brake lines, a bad flare. That's it.
^You can and I have used tethlon tape on brake fittings as a manufacturers requirement(not for DD use) but you shouldn't use any teflon on any of the fittings you reveived from me. They should all be metal on metal as protonus described. As for torque levels....its not too strict since your dealing will flared fittings...just use some common sence when tightening and don't throw 100ft-lbs on a 3/8th SS line or somthing stupid. All the fittings are flare fittings and will give you a very positive feel when the flare is seated and all you have to do is give it some decent torque and your good to go. I'll be bold and say 15ft-lbs for the SS flared line and 30ft-lbs on the caliper studs or so.....enough to get a good positive seal crush on the washer.
not reading through all this... but i bought the swap off josh quite awhile back... just have one question
where all you all getting calipers. i heard autozone but there was something wrong with them. where do i need to get my calipers sorry i know this is prolly covered a few times in this but i just need a quick answer.
Ok, i am still at a loss here...
I am still getting leaks at the back, the fronts are impossible to break the old fittings loose from where they meet the rubber hoses, I'm pretty much to the point of me tearing all the god damn brake lines out of the car and buying sections that are pre-flared and re-running everything myself. Obviously my own flares suck, i am going to return both flaring tool kits and just go from there. No one around me wants to tackle such a challenge with a "modified" braking system. I don't know what else to do, i refuse to pay a dealership the money, when i started to bleed the front breaks i was getting a little more firmer pedal but it still went to the floor. Obviously i have a leak which is making it go to the floor, but for peats sake, i am sick of this crap. I will win one way or another.
...end rant
dude look under your car under the driver side right b4 the rear tire. if you have the stack RPV's, get stock replacement sections from there back then connect your SS lines to them, how long are your lines anyway? mine were frozen at the wheel cylinders. i found a cav with the lines i needed on it at the bone yard but you could do it from a MC back you you had to, just allot more work.
^Hes got a 99 so I dont think he has the RPVs in there.... Well Cody you got the right attitude. I hope it goes better for ya, you might find better luck using the premade line in the auto parts store as you mentioned.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, July 09, 2007 4:24 PM
Well... I jumped to conclusions a we bit too fast. Put my car completely up in the air on jack stands to prep for throwing new lines throughout the car.. Where i noticed what looked like to be a liquid substance on my tarp under my car in the garage turned out to only be water from condensation in the exhaust. When i was bleeding the brakes my car's ass end was up in the air and when i was trying the fronts to just bleed them all the water was rolling out the back through the tiny tiny drain holes i have drilled into my SS exhaust so it won't rust out. It just happen to be under a spot where i have a connection. So as of right now all my connections with the teflon are fine and not leaking. I am going to cut into my front lines sometime this week and installed the front SS lines hopefully getting the pressure back into the system. The rear is only going to be a band aid for now until i can get my car back to the RDFABS shop. We are just soo busy out there chris's car is taking up the lift and i was getting bored at home. I'm thinking i should have waiting to do this out there instead of in my tiny garage. LOl.... anyways, i am taking a break from this so i don't hate my car anymore than i do.
i know the pain, i bled for two days straight and never figured it out, ended up putting the STOCK system back on after EVERYTHING had been hooked up. ended up being an iffy bleeder valve.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
anything to watch or order specifically when i get the calipers from autozone online?
first time took me and my buddy 4hrs to get it done, with no ebrake
then 2hrs for my car.
i used 87 daytona rear rubber lines, and they thread into the stock end that comes out of the rear cylinders.
simple as pie
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
Anyone got part numbers and install instructions to replace the ebrake lines?
I need to swap my 03+ to older style for the swap.
I have both sides brand new for the e-brake cables. I was going to swap mine but once again, the connectors that are crimped into place made me realize its not worth it so i still have my stock ones. just go to a parts store and request once from a 95-02 cavalier/sunfire
i had to buy a box of 50 crimps for the cable ends. i'd be willing to sell you some (because it wasn't cheap
) if you have an 03+ and u can try to modify your stock brake lines rather than buying new ones.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
evans17 wrote:Anyone got part numbers and install instructions to replace the ebrake lines?
I need to swap my 03+ to older style for the swap.
The part numbers you need:
22634721 - ~$25
22651234 - ~$18
While I was there I also replaced the entire ebrake handle which didn't make it an easier but it was cheap and mine was starting to cause problems with the plastic button and crap, that and it also comes with the entire long cable assembly that goes all the way to the back of the car:
22628963 - ~$38
