it all depends on how big you go on the tires as to the rear clearance issues...
tim... outbacks actually have the subframes spaced down and run a slightly longer strut with the lower perches mounted higher on the strut body.
Interesting...
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
should also mention that camber will want to go positive with the strut top spacers. camber bolts would prob fix the issue.
wonder if you could run the std coilovers cranked up. would fix the camber issue in the front at least.. i'm not sure how much lift they would offer. (that and you could crank it down in the summer)
Have you used those camber bolts before? How much change can you usually get with those?
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
crash bolts? We cant be talking about that much camber change, I haven't seen much camber change in jounce or droop with these cars (or much at all with most mac strut cars since the instant center is at infinity because the link's dont intersect, blah blah blah more engineering stuff, lol. If you cant tell I just read the suspension section of the bible and am working on designing the rear suspension for the racecar). I'm sure just larger ovals in the struts would give you enough adjustment.
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Maybe I'll have to throw my front struts in the mill.... lol
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Jookycola wrote:1997 Cavalier ZR-24 Moab Concept
Hard to get any technical specs of this car now, but i'm fairly sure it's a 2 1/2 inch lift using longer shocks, regular oem cavalier struts with a strut spacer, and longer springs from a Lumina.
This is what i remember as well.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
If you look at the wheel bolt circle compared to the bottom of the body, It doesn't look too far off from a stock cavalier... Looks to me that the lift comes because of the 17's and larger tires.
:Edit:
Here's some inspiration
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, February 16, 2011 3:58 PM
so if i just throw some 24's on there i'll get a completely redneck/ghetto lift on it?????/
i keed, i keed...... i need to go get some big meaty ass tires for it soon......
on a side note i think i'll be keeping the 95-99 z wheels on it and just stuffing the biggest tires under it that i can. this bitch is going to see some mud this year
talking from my experience with lifting subaru legacy's, the front could be aligned back into spec but that was with the factory camber bolts.
cramming larger tires under the car will make it sit higher but you'll likely run into rubbing issues pretty quick.
pic of my legacy for reference.
i ran 215/65/16 general grabber at2's on it.
man you're crazy. haha. there's a guy who welded a cavalier body onto a bronco frame. just do that. haha
Lol... no...
This is a local project, known as the Slazer.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Transporter7220 wrote:Lol... no...
This is a local project, known as the Slazer.
That's might look kind of neat.....if the frame wasn't hanging 2 feet below the body...
Any updates from anyone?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
none. i'm going to start with finding the biggest meatiest tires i can find and find out how much/if any that changes the height/stance. it'll be a little while before i can change all four. if it raises it enough i may leave well enough alone. i really only want it to be able to get around close as good as an awd car would be able to in the mud/snow.
Just be careful going too big, you start to get into really heavy tires, and that along with a larger tire diameter would make for a slug of a car.
A 4.11 FDR would be the way to go with this...
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
So a strut spacer between the strut mount and the body seem to be the best route for this. 2-3" lift seems to be about the max someone should go with spacers. The half shafts and the front end seems to be getting into some interesting geometry if you go much higher than that. You could get another inch or two by spacing the engine cradle with spacers, but the trans mount may need to be tweaked.
The rear starts to get close to the front of the rear quarters if you go much more than 3-4". But that is a hell of a lift if you ask me.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Strut mount spacers sound like it will work...
Did Jay just start off a new trend?
The brother and i are debating on turning my red 99z into a rally lifted car for @!#$z and gigglez.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
RallyX events in your future?
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
There is one about 1.5 hours from here....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
i would say like 1.5" lift in the front, and leave the rear alone, just throw on some larger wheels/tires.
Nah, Do front and rear buddy. I'm interested in seeing a cavalier dominate some rallyx
There are now 1.5, 2, and 3 inch coil spring spacers on ebay for cavaliers....just sayin