most high quality brands the general public doesnt know about because high quality brands won't sell there stuff in best buys or walmarts or even low end internet shops. most high end brands are only sold be select vendors. for the price jl can get they are a damn good deal actually.
besides the brands jl allready just mentioned you could look into focal, hertz, image dynamics (though i will no longer support them) morel.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
sunonfire wrote:Quote:
Now how many of these?: lanzar, lightning audio, Pyle, Sony xplod? Yeah lets compare high end to well known...........
Actually, none of these brands were anything like what I was looking at. Also if you'll take a look at my post above, I said I was LOOKING at that, not that I had made up my mind and was going to disregard any input from anyone else. If you hadn't already figured it out, I have zero knowledge when it comes to these types of things, so it'd be appreciated if you didn't immediately come to the conclusion that I was consciously choosing something that wouldn't get me the best product for the money. Regarding Rainbow and your thread, I posted my response without doing research, which is ignorant and rude, and for which I apologize, but one has to be careful when buying a little-known brand like Rainbow, because it is quite easy to get ripped off over the Internet
Understood. My point was not that you were considering those brands but rather that you know each and every one of them. I was simply making a point that well know each does not equal quality all the time.
As for not being knowledgeable, that's what information forums are for. I'm trying to give the best advice I can and help you get the most bang for your buck.
And as for rainbow specifically, I fully understand not liking the idea of diving into a brand you don't know much of anything about. But also consider that you are looking at a higher end line of equipment and reviews can help a lot too. Hell, I've got a few people on here that have taken the chance on them based on reviews and reputation and I'm sure they will be happy to give personal reviews on here.
Again, I'm not just a salesman pushing a product, I'm trying to get people into a level of product they may have not known was in their budget. I don't have overhead like a local shop, nor do I have a wide range of places I can gather customers, so I make sure my prices are sweet for the few people I'm allowed and able to sell to.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
All the brands big D mentioned are actually well known high end SQ brands. There's a bunch of other brands that you're not going to see in a big box store like FI, Sundown, Soundigital, Stetsom, MMats, Massive, etc... that are all great companies.
And actually, now that I think about it, If you plan to upgrade to a good set of components in the future, you could go the route I just went in my DD.
That rainbow sub, hop on amazon.com and find the soundstream Rubicon rub4.600 for 155 or so, the wiring kit I just linked, then you are ready to upgrade your components. That amp will do 300rms with the rear channels bridged for your sub, and I promise that's plenty to get that thing moving to its full potential, and you have 100the watts available from each front channel for whatever components you end up getting later.
Total should still be in the 450 area, and you now don't need an amp for whatever components you buy, saving more money in the future.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
I already did get some components that I'm really pleased with even thought they're not fully broken in yet, even off of head unit power. You went 4-gauge most likely, and did you get CCA or OFC? I've read that some CCA comes in slightly larger than usual sizes to deal with reduced conductivity. Any light you can shed on the situation?
Not all CCA kits are larger diameter. KnuKonceptz even says on their site that they recommend lower amperage draw on their CCA kits rather than pure OFC wire. Basically, anything over 80A of draw is going to be too much for the typical 4 gauge install with CCA. My 4 channel amp will start popping it's fuses at 60A, so I'm not worried. lol.
What components have you got? If you like a decent set of components off head unit power, wait until you get some good clean amped power on them
And since you say you do already have a nice set, even more reason to stick with getting a good 4 channel rather than buying a mono then having to get a second amp down the road.
Sub/Box/Amp/Wiring, DONE since you already have fronts.
ALSO, what did you ever decide to go with for a head unit? I'm too lazy to go back and read lol.
And since I feel like being nice, here's the link to the amp I was talking about:
Rubicon 4.600
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
I wasn't trying to break the bank but also not trying to be super cheap so I ended up getting some Kicker (yes haha indeed) KS speakers and made some adapters which turrned out quite nicely. I finished the install this past weekend but I only have had a chance to drive to and from school (10 minutes) so they're not quite broken in, but they still beat the crap out of the stock ones. The wires are soldered into the stock ones, so adding an amp will not be that hard. For the head unit I got the clarion cx501 which was a pain to get in for several reasons but I love it so much having bluetooth instead of a spotty fm transmitter. The wiring harness plugs in near the bottom so I had to cut some stuff up behind and eventually got it close enough (.25 inches) where I just put the screws in and tightened it down (I figured the wires could take it, no sharp edges or corners etc.). Than ks for the link btw.
No problem. As for head unit fitment, a lot of aftermarket unit's are going to require some cutting in a Jbody unless you use the ugly dash adapter that puts the head unit another inch or so out of the dash. I wouldn't say it's JUST the unit you got. Jbodys suck for room in the dash.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
The adapter that was sent with actually looks really clean, I'll have to link a pic and of the speakers w/ adapters.when I get a chance. That amp actually looks almost exactly like what I waas looking for. The only concern I have still have is that I have to be able to access the hole between trunk and cabin as I regularly need to fit a 6 foot lacrosse stick in there as well as a bag.
With a single sub and a single 4 channel amp I don't see that being a major issue. Just have the amp mounted to the back of the seat, and have the sub/box off to one side. Should have plenty of room beside the box to slide the lacrosse stick and definitely plenty of trunk space for a bag.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
That's one thing I like about my brothers ford escort is the trunklid is on hydraulic struts instead of the fixed arm he doesn't have to worry about it hitting a box if he got one
Been looking around, why is the Alpine SWR-1242D(~165 shipped on Amazon) more expensive than the SWR-1243D (~145 shipped on Amazon)? Both are DVC 4 ohm, and the 1243 has a higher RMS and peak rating, but is cheaper?
Also JL, what sub/box combos or subs could you work out for under $300, that would give me the best SQ?
Ampwise, the Soundstream RUB5.800 (~180 shipped from Amazon) seems good for wiring the sub in parallel (or ignore this if the Rainbow is SVC) to get the 340 watts (170 each coil) out of it while still getting 70 watts for each front speaker (they are 4 ohm) and whatever rears I eventually get. Do I need to worry about blowing the tweeters or will the x-overs take care of that?
Don't worry about the tweeters getting frequencies they aren't supposed to, as that's what the crossover is there for. A component set is comprised of 3 parts:
Pair of mids usually optimized for playing about 60-80hz up to 500hz. Tweeters optimized for 500 and on up. and passive crossovers to properly send those frequencies to each. Your tuning will be focused at the amp and head unit to get power and cut offs tuned in.
As for your amp question:
Once you have a good quality set of front components installed, a good sub for the low end frequencies, and the right amount of power going to each, you won't be wanting or needing to spend extra money on rear speakers. Stick to a good 4 channel that can power your components and sub. Rear speakers are just adding noise behind you, potentially making the sound WORSE as you no longer have the soundstage focused in front of you, and the music is recorded in stereo(2channel), not surround. So your rear speakers are playing the exact same sounds, at the exact same time. So being further away, they get to your ears at a different time. You don't gain anything, and could potentially make the sound worse.
Another thing, with all the worry you seem to have about getting a ton of power available to your sub, and each coil getting this and that power etc.. Let's make this super simple for ya, man:
Even a dual coil sub will run off a single channel amp. Even if you run a DVC sub on the rear channels of a 4 channel amp, you would be wiring the coils together to get the right impedance and bridge the rear channels to the box terminals. Don't get your mind wrapped around the fact that it has 2 coils when it comes to wiring things up.
If you get the RUB4.600, you have 100 watts per side for some good front components, and 300 watts bridged from the rear channels. That's plenty to get as loud as you will want to ever listen to consistently and then some. With the right components that are efficient and sensitive enough to fully utilize that kind of power, you will be happy as a pig in @!#$ lol.
As for a quality built piece of equipment with great sound quality for under $300, that's an easy sell man. Rainbow Hammer all day. Pending my check on stock at the warehouse(because the 2011 stuff is not being shipped here anymore, and the 2012 stuff is being built at the factory now, what's in the US is all that's here, period. So I have to constantly check before making sales until the 2012 stuff hits the states), I should be able to get you, under $300, either a 10 or 12 inch Hammer in either a ported or sealed box. Whatever your preferential flavor in those respects, it SHOULD be available. I KNOW I can do any combo under $300, just need to double check stock on whatever configuration you desire.
If you want my PERSONAL opinion, because I know some people like to get loud and bumpy from time to time
I would go with a safe compromise and get a 12" Hammer in a sealed box. Rainbow calls it their Stream setup, and it comes pre installed in the box and pre-wired to 4 ohms which is where you will want it to bridge the rear channels of a 4 channel. If I didn't think this was a great value and sound, I wouldn't have just put that exact sub set up in my car this past weekend lol.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
I don't know if you know this, but how long would it be before the 2012 stuff gets in?
Also, what is the next step up from that setup? Just to see what it would be.
Not sure on the eta for the new lineup quite yet. What I do know is that the plant is now switched over and building the 2012 stuff. Just not sure when it will hit the states.
As for going up from the hammer line:
From a sound quality standpoint you would be in the vanadium and profi lines. At that point you are in the 450 to 600 dollar range for the sub itself.
From a n spl standpoint you would be in the amboss line and be looking around 300 to 400 dollars for the sub.
The hammer is a fantastic sounding sub in a great price range. The vanadium and profi lines are their top of the top. Unfortunately, there's no in between. But the hammer performs so well I really don't see a need for anything in between, honestly.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
So I got my amp kit and everything was going smoothly installation-wise until I got to the battery terminal. They look like
this and the bolt is not long enough to screw into the terminal with the power wire ring on, but the bolt can't be taken out of the plastic housing and replaced with a longer one. Any suggestions?
