Hello guys I was curious to know how to install a water cooled center section of a turbo for use on a 2200. I know you can buy a turbo with or without the option but would I just tap the hard radiator piping that goes parallel with the head of the engine and tap it again for a return further down the tube?
I haven't purchased my turbo yet but have looked into quite a few and some have water cooled senter sections. Since 3rd gens never came factory with turbo how would you set this up?
Thanks Jeff
I was just gonna "T" into mine like you said but wanna know if there is a proper way to do it or not with the routing of the thermostat, radiator,head. Does it matter where it is T'ed for the turbo with the return and feed? Not trying to thread jack, I just wanna know more about it too.
Travis
I was trying to figure this out also but on a LD9 my thoughts were this.... I know where im gonna get the coolant from but my problem was where to put it back..... #1 route the coolant back into the coolant resivoir #2... well i havent got that far
my only worry with going back into the tank is that it will kill some of the pressure in the coolant system and kill flow..... but the tank is pressurized so im not 100% sure. If any one on here has a GT series BB turbo with coolant lines it would be great to hear how you have yours routed.
make an indapendant cooling system using a tranny or oil cooler and a small electric pump should work right?
This way the coolant is not passing into the rest of the engine and staying hot.
^^^^^ That is a great idea, Aaron. ^^^^^^^
I have been trying to figure out how to plumb my lines using the heater core lines ( 2.2 eco ) and also keeping the heater core in the loop. This would make it so much easier and you could just use Braided lines so they dont melt since they are so close to the header / log manifold.
Do you have a pump and cooler that you would suggest, using 6an fittings and coolant circulation lines?
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hells no, run it inline to the IN side of your heater core (passenger side). Don't use a " T " use 2 " L" conectors and have all the fluid run throw the turbo ==> heater core ==> normal flow.
You heater core is the only "coolant bypass" that is always flowing (even when the thermostat is closed) this way it always gets coolant, and keeps the oil from cooking. Remember water can only reach 100 C so the oil will never have a chance to cook in there. :cheers
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
oh yah, make sure you get 3/4" hose and fittings, that will ensure no leaks.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
ge_forcez22 wrote:hells no, run it inline to the IN side of your heater core (passenger side). Don't use a " T " use 2 " L" conectors and have all the fluid run throw the turbo ==> heater core ==> normal flow.
You heater core is the only "coolant bypass" that is always flowing (even when the thermostat is closed) this way it always gets coolant, and keeps the oil from cooking. Remember water can only reach 100 C so the oil will never have a chance to cook in there. :cheers
so your saying nomal flow==> turbo===> inlet to heater core versus normal flow ===> inlet to heater core.
basically havin the turbo inline of the inlet and to NOT use a tee fitting
yah thats exactyl what I am saying, it forces the coolant to go through, as opposed to doing 50-50 split, that way you can be sure that the turbo charger is being cooled, and if winter driving is on your agenda, it should warm up the cab quicker too.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
That's a damn good idea. I just might have to do that while I have the car down for work.
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Thanks for all the info guys I would have never of thought of using the heater core inlet. thanks a bunch. To bad my exhaust mani is on the front of my motor.
Cheers
Jeff
not that I am aware of, the coolant can get only so hot. I believe it is 3 degrees F every 7KPA or something, and your cap is 70KPA IIRC, so max coolant can get is 241 F, so everything is made to take that temp.
Which is also why coolant litterally explodes when you open the cap when it is at 241 cause boiling is 220 @atmospheric pressure, so literally all the coolant boils instantly causing it to explode, ....
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
