I have been reading several posts on this topic let me get this right, you wet sand after you prime, then shoot the base color not primer again, only on ecoat of primer if the surface is smooth?
If you sanded thru the primer you have to wet sand again. Before the base coat you have to use a primer/sealer.
If I dont sand threw the primer I only need to spary the sealer, does this need to be sanded?
From bare metal:
self etching primer
primer surfacer
Block sand 400-600 wet
primer/ sealer
base coat
clear coat
sand 1000 or 1500-2000 wet
buff with wool pad and rubbing compound
polish with foam pad and foam pad polishing compound
Should end up like glass
I prefer dry sanding on the before the primer tho, just in case you might go through to the metal. Wet sanding could cause it to rust if its a long project. But other than that, do what guru said
-coming.soon-
Geeza guru wrote:From bare metal:
self etching primer
primer surfacer
Block sand 400-600 wet
primer/ sealer
base coat
clear coat
sand 1000 or 1500-2000 wet
buff with wool pad and rubbing compound
polish with foam pad and foam pad polishing compound
Should end up like glass
Just like that but usually if you paint over your last coat of prime within like 72 hours then you dont need a sealer. Also I wouldnt sand clear with 1000
<a href = "http://www.winksonline.com"><img src = "http://www.winksonline.com/catalog/images/SIG.gif "border="0">
Second that motion, I dont use sealer unless i'm bein quick about it
-coming.soon-
Is the process basicaly the same for plastic peices
here is what i do
after the last coat or primer and it`s all wet sanded down ready for paint
you always ALWAYS ALWAYS use sealer sealer helps the base coat sealer hides small imperfections in the primer
sealer helps with the adheshion of base and clear
ok use dx 330
go over the whole car make sure ya got it all masked off tightly and properly
tack the car off
shot the sealer
no need to sand the sealer at all
base the car
if ya see any imperfections at all then let it dry then sand it with 1,000
re base the spots that were sanded
always tack it off between coats
clear it
wet sand it with 1,000 then 1,500
buff it
and enjoy
can i haz bondo
^^^..word
Here we actually have foam pads that go on the buffer to wet sand with. Usally start with 1000 grit and finnish with 1500. All of the polishes are M3 products as well. I love the look of a car that has just been cut and polished.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
my family is into autobody and thats what im taking in college and if u sand through the primer u have to reprime it and then wet sand again because the old base coat will show through your new and will be wavy i just repainted my car and i did all the body work myself so i now what im talking about.
-99' Cavalier - Lambo Orange Pearl
Raven, you have been very helpfull on this topic and I would like to thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge, and not cutting someone like me down who is just starting out. and asking al ot of ?'s
lol.......and what am i chopped liver???.......lol
can i haz bondo
OK big daddy your the S**t as well
big daddy wrote:lol.......and what am i chopped liver???.......lol
Nice.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
big daddy wrote:here is what i do
after the last coat or primer and it`s all wet sanded down ready for paint
you always ALWAYS ALWAYS use sealer sealer helps the base coat sealer hides small imperfections in the primer
sealer helps with the adheshion of base and clear
ok use dx 330
go over the whole car make sure ya got it all masked off tightly and properly
tack the car off
shot the sealer
no need to sand the sealer at all
base the car
if ya see any imperfections at all then let it dry then sand it with 1,000
re base the spots that were sanded
always tack it off between coats
clear it
wet sand it with 1,000 then 1,500
buff it
and enjoy
My only disagreement would be with the bolded part.
Tacking a paintjob off between coats is <b>NOT</b> a good idea if you're spraying metallics or pearls. Just tacking when using metallic based or pearl based paints can throw off the metallics and pearls... making a HUGE mess to fix later. If you see any imperfections, odds are it's under the base anyway. You need to take great care in making sure your body work is perfect before getting to this point... although certain smaller imperfections if spotted when you're basing, I'd go ahead and fix.
Sealer is good to use but is not a total necessity... but I'd recommend it.
to each their own
i always tack off base coat between coats if it`s dry you won`t have a prob
and what are you doin tackin it off while it`s wet...lol....
everyone has their own way of painting i have mine you have yours
i like mine better
can i haz bondo
big daddy wrote:to each their own
i always tack off base coat between coats if it`s dry you won`t have a prob
and what are you doin tackin it off while it`s wet...lol....
everyone has their own way of painting i have mine you have yours
i like mine better
I'm not totally disagreeing with you. In some ways we do have different opinions on what is better... I shoudl have been more specific.
The reason I wasn't recommending tacking off between base coats (especially with metallics and pearls) is because I'm assuming this person doesn't have a lot of experience. If you're not experienced, tacking off with metallics or pearls you COULD not do it right and mess up the metallics and pearls. If you know what you're doing, that's different.
FallenAngel: If I'm repairing fiberglass, is it necessary for me to sand thru the gelcoat and re-glass to the original glass? I'm thinking it wouldn't really hold if I glass to the gel coat.
Dis a Post jack FOO!
yes... glassing to gel coat won't hold up. Take it down to the fiberglass
