I've had numerous problems with my lug studs breaking for as long as I've owned the car. I decided to do this DIY for those who have the same problem. Hope it helps.


1-Jack the car up and take the necessary wheel off. If you don’t know how to do this safely, then you shouldn’t be doing this. Stop immediately and shoot yourself.


2-Look at the broken lug stud and wonder how it happened. Cursing can also be inserted at this point.

3-Take the caliper off. There are two allen head bolts holding it on. One at the top and one at the bottom.

Loosen both of these bolts to get the caliper off.

You may need to wiggle the caliper a little bit to get it to slide off of the rotor. When you get it off, use a piece of wire to hang the caliper from the spring.
***Note: Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose, as this may cause damage to the brake line.

4-With the caliper off,

slide the rotor off of the hub.


5-Now it’s time to knock the broken lug stud out of the hub. The stud may need a little persuasion to get it out. This is my persuasion.

This is the broken stud.

Be very careful in doing this so there is no damage to any other parts of the car.

6-Here you will notice that there are three holes in the hub. You will also notice that one of the holes is larger than the other two. There is a reason for this, and it’s not another place to stick your penis.


7-Use a T55 torx head socket to remove the three bolts that hold the hub in place. If you look at the above picture, you can see one of the bolts through the large hole.
****Note: the bolts will only fit through the larger hole in the hub assembly.

8-Once you get the bolts out

wiggle the hub assembly out a little bit.

You only need to pull it out enough to get the new stud into the hole.


9-Put the new stud in place and replace the three bolts in the hub and tighten.

At this point, you may want to peck the new stud from the back just slightly so it starts to seat in the hub assembly. This will keep it from popping out while you are putting everything back together.


10-Put the rotor back on the hub. Now you are ready to put the caliper back on. From my experiences, a lot of people will let pressure off the caliper by opening the brake lines. I don’t like to do this, because then you have to bleed the brakes, and it’s a pain to me. So I bought this nifty little tool to press the caliper back into its recess, eliminating bleeding the brakes.

You see how it works.

You remove the brake pads, insert the tool, and turn the handle. Piece of cake.

11-With the caliper back on, tighten up the two bolts on the back. I usually have trouble getting mine to line up at first, so be patient.

Notice how one of the studs is shorter than the others. That is the new one that has not been seated yet.

12-Put the wheel on to seat the lug stud.

****Note: If you have aftermarket wheels, it’s best to use your compact spare tire or an original black steel wheel in order not to damage your good wheels.

13-Put a lug nut on the new stud and tighten it down until it is completely seated. Normally it will tighten the same as the rest, which is recommended 100 ft/lbs of torque.

That’s it! Now just put your wheels back on like you normally would, and you’re done!!!

Now, I was only gonna do a DIY for the front, but upon rotating my tires, one on the back broke. So it looks like I’ll do one for the back as well. Good news though! The back is much easier.

1-Jack up the back and take the wheel off.


2-Take the drum off.
****Note: if the drum won’t come off, it’s probably because the E-brake is set. Release the E-brake so you can take it off.


3-Again, knock out the broken stud.

4-Manuever the new stud into the hub.

5-Put a lug nut on the new stud and tighten it down a little so the new stud starts to seat. This will keep it from popping out when you reassemble everything.


6-Put the rear wheel on and tighten the same as the front.


Boom! You’re done! Easy, huh?

Give me some feedback guys. Let me know if this was helpful and any suggestions.

Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

good DIY

::golf clap:; ::sips tea:: pimp pimp..


beer is like a chick.. well not really its just beer, it be cool thou huh?

also STICKY!!! this bad arse mofo


beer is like a chick.. well not really its just beer, it be cool thou huh?

Nice DIY walkthrough.

I would think there is something wrong if you are breaking them that often. I've broken one the entire time I've owned 3 diff J-bodies.

I took it to the tire shop I go to and they replaced it for free.

Oh, i usually use a big C - clamp i have in my garage for the calipers. Works great.




<A HREF="http://www.j-body.org/members/brandoson/cars/1/"><IMG SRC="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/brandoson/SpeedstasSig.jpg" BORDER="0"></A>
"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up

I used to use c-clamps. They work great too.
I'm not sure what is wrong with it. I'll start taking the nut off, then out of nowhere it crossthreads and breaks almost instantaneously. It's just a PITA junk Cavalier.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've never had to remove the hub to get a new stud in....It just fits in from behind without removal.

Also, to seat the new stud I just use a lug nut and another nut on the stud. I have air tools though....

Good write-up

never busted a stud in 9 years of J car abuse. you might think about getting some new lug nuts.

however, this was a pleasant walk that is seldom taken. good job.

no matter what vehicle if one breaks on that wheel i replace all of them on that wheel. they are not very expensive and im sure it can help save them from wearing out more.

i just broke one on my 04 yay so yeah
sticky
sticky

sticky



caviefreak: Ya know what I like about winter. Ya can get a bunch of beer out of the fridge and put it in the window sill so ya dont have to make as many trips out to the fridge

chapter10 wrote:never busted a stud in 9 years of J car abuse. you might think about getting some new lug nuts.

however, this was a pleasant walk that is seldom taken. good job.

You have to replace the nut with the stud, cuz it breaks off inside the nut, so I've replaced nuts too. It still does it.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My Cars slower than your Car!! wrote:1-Jack the car up and take the necessary wheel off. If you don’t know how to do this safely, then you shouldn’t be doing this. Stop immediately and shoot yourself.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA


whered u get that niffy caliper tool, i use a big c clamp, it works, but sometimes is a pain.


-Borsty

Im do the same thing as everybody else regarding C-clamps, but about you busting so many studs: when you go to break the lug loose are you using air tools or a breaker bar, cause i heard if you you air tools to start taking off a lug it usually breaks the stud



"Official Jewish J-Body"

also do u have a torque wrench to tighten it correctly? Maybe its too tight




<A HREF="http://www.j-body.org/members/brandoson/cars/1/"><IMG SRC="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/brandoson/SpeedstasSig.jpg" BORDER="0"></A>
"Growing old is mandatory. Growing up? Definitely optional." <BR>It's cheaper to blow them up than build them up

Well I liked the write up and especially the Safety Instructions


Alont

Good job and thanks for the taking the time and sharing it with us!

Borsty: I think I got it at NAPA. I've had it for a while, so I'm not sure.

Machzel: I use the tire tool that came with the car.

Brandoson: It does it whether I torque them or not.

Thanks for the suggestions/comments guys.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

you do not want to seat the new stud with the wheel on the car it will damage the wheel


use a washers and some anti-seize and a old lug nut



and ive been able to get the new stud in with out taking the hub off also



nice review other wise

The amount of road salt used in W.Va. has a lot to do with breaking wheel studs.


God bless America.

[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™)]you do not want to seat the new stud with the wheel on the car it will damage the wheel

I can see where it would possibly damage the wheel, however, the lug nuts are softer than the wheel, and the lug nuts are supposed to go before the wheel does.

Quote:

and ive been able to get the new stud in with out taking the hub off also

I have a plain jane 2.2 Cav. I forgot to mention that. It may be different for the Z24's since their are some different parts throughout the car.



Cavaleer2002: really? I had no idea that would do it. Learn something new every day.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hey great job with the pics. I went out and did mine and it was a snap.
Thanks for helping out!

Well, it helped at least one person, and that's what matters to me. Seriously, no sarcasm attached.

Glad it helped Jim!!




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've replaced about 22-24 wheelstuds on my car over the past couple years and you definately don't want to do it against the wheels. Use some washers and a sacrificial lug nut. If you could find a M12X1.5 lug nut that has a flat bottom that will work better than stock.

still a great right up in general
BTW that "tool that came with your car" is called a tire iron



"Official Jewish J-Body"

^^^^huh?




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>My Cardomain page<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>Tabasco Racing<~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

My Cars slower than your Car!! wrote:Borsty: I think I got it at NAPA. I've had it for a while, so I'm not sure.

Machzel: I use the tire tool that came with the car.

Brandoson: It does it whether I torque them or not.

Thanks for the suggestions/comments guys.

That tire tool is called a TIRE IRO....just to let you know



"Official Jewish J-Body"