I have put on about 10,000 KM on my pads and rotors I got from Stopit and the car is already starting to vibrate when I use the brakes.
I hope the rotors haven't wrapped??
I got 75,000 km's out of my stock brakes before I changed them so I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed any vibrations.
Did you break them in properly?
I have a year on his slotted rotors and axxis ultimates. I put about 25,000 miles on them so far and about 10-12 autocrosses. I also treated them very poorly on the street and have yet to have them warp on me. I think his stuff is great.
first off AMAZING sig!! ^^^^
I got that kit from him last year. No problems at all.
It is on a daily driver so it's a lot of stop and go.
I know that when I drive I sometimes like to have some fun
and well once I almost lost my teeth... man they grip.
But no funny noises or vibrations, but again, daily driver.
Yes I broke them in properly....just like he said to do.....slam them as hard as you can until you see white smoke.
I'm not saying his stuff is bad, nore do I know what the problem right now because I haven't checked whats going on yet.
Just getting a vibration so i was thinking that it might be the rotors...I hope not though!
I'll get the brakes checked in a couple of day
GoLeafsGo wrote:Yes I broke them in properly....just like he said to do.....slam them as hard as you can until you see white smoke.
I'm not saying his stuff is bad, nore do I know what the problem right now because I haven't checked whats going on yet.
Just getting a vibration so i was thinking that it might be the rotors...I hope not though!
I'll get the brakes checked in a couple of day
Did the problem occur just after breakin?? or is it something that has developed over time? If it is something that developed over time, I suspect that there might have been a runout condition to begin with. Rotors do not "warp" by themselves. The heating and cooling of the rotor is more or less even across the board and uneven drastic temperature changes is what causes metal to warp. First, I would remove the rotor and check to make sure that the hub surface is clean and free of any rust whatsoever. even .002" of runout at the hub will translate into .005 or 6 at the edge of the rotor, which will over time develop into a thickness variation in the rotor, which causes the vibration you feel in the pedal. Also, make sure the wheels are properly torqued. The torque value isn't really as important as having all 5 lug nuts torqued evenly. See if you can get your hands on a dial indicator to check rotor and hub runout...let us know what you come up with and we'll come up with a solution.
rubbin' is racin'
that's how you properly break in rotors?? slam them until you see white smoke?
Wheel torque should be about 90 ft. lbs. on aluminum wheels and about 100 ft. lbs. on steel ones.
I've always heard you break pads in by making several slow downs from like 60-30 while never fully stoping the car. Wait a minute or so inbetween slow downs so the rotors cool off.
Zach wrote:Wheel torque should be about 90 ft. lbs. on aluminum wheels and about 100 ft. lbs. on steel ones.
I've always heard you break pads in by making several slow downs from like 60-30 while never fully stoping the car. Wait a minute or so inbetween slow downs so the rotors cool off.
Yeah, that's a more proper procedure. Baer has a whole procedure posted on their site for high performance rotors. Generally, you'd want to use a scaled down version of it for j-body sized ones.
Note that even the stock aluminum wheels should be torqued to 100 ft-lbs. I always figured it had to do with the style of lug-nuts rather than the type of wheel. I torque my aftermarket wheels (with tuner lugs) to 90 ft-lbs as recommended by just about every source I've ever found.
