hi i have a legacy 12" 1000 watt 4 ohm subwoofer that im planning on hooking up. im pretty much clueless on what amp to get? like how many watts, and i still dont understand bridgeing amps.
I think you asked about said sub before, and do yourself a favor and toss the sub.
x2 I would get something with a little more quality to it.
If you're willing to settle for that sub, then you can match it with pretty much any amp that runs in the same wattage range. Bridging is a capability some amps have, where you can use more than one "channel" normally intended to run separate speakers, and combine them to drive a speaker at greater power. (i.e. 4 channel amp running 2 or 1 speaker/subs, 2 channel amp running just one speaker/sub). The procedure varies from amp to amp, but gets covered in the manual. The ideal thing would be just get a mono/single-channel amp to drive your single sub, but if you get a good deal on a bridgeable amp this gives you another choice.
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Dude, if you put 500 watt rms to that sub, it's going to melt like a fat chick at an all you can eat buffet.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:Dude, if you put 500 watt rms to that sub, it's going to melt like a fat chick at an all you can eat buffet.
lol word.
First things first, that sub is complete garbage, I understand we all have to start somewhere and I'm not trying to be a dick. Its garbage and it is NOT 1000 watts.
Next thing, an RMS or continuous power rating would further help us. Don't ever look at MAX or PEAK power ratings, ignore them.
With that said, for the time being until we know what the actual RMS is of the sub I'll say this. Anytime you get a sub you're going to need to know the RMS (as I've said) and at what ohms you can run it. If you're confused about what ohms a sub can run there are multiple calculators online. Your sub is a single-coil 4-ohm, so you can only run it at 4 ohms, simple enough. When looking at amplifiers you're going to look for what the RMS wattage is at 4-ohms. So for @!#$s and giggles we'll say your sub is 150rms, you'll want an amp thats 150rms at 4-ohms. Whether its a mono or 2-channel that is bridgeable and rated at that power, it will power the sub fine.
As examples for the "150 watts @ 4-ohms" I've made up, here are two amps...
Kicker ZX300.1. This is a mono amp, as you look at the specs they will list rated power at 2 ohms, and also 4 ohms. As you can see with going from 2 ohms to 4 ohms, the power is generally cut in half.
Kicker ZX150.2. This is a 2-channel amp, you can run your left and right speakers OR bridge for a sub for more power. Again, it has a rating for each channel and then also if you combine, or bridge, the channels together.
alright..well i dont know what the rms is, it just says 1000 watt on the back of it. so would one of those sonys they sell at walmart be any better? im basically on a super cheap budget for this so.
wouldnt be better by much. IMO, a good entry level sub, you're talking around $100 give or take. Like a kicker comp. But as far as the sub you have, see if there is a model # on the sub and search on the net to see if you can find RMS power ratings. I can guarantee you you're not even going to need to spend $150 on an amp, $150 is even pushing it. You'll probably be able to get away with some garbage $100 amp.
well to be honest, I was assuming they would maybe be honest about the RMS, I guess I was wrong lol. So like I said, any @!#$ amp is going to work. Since you're on a budget go to circuit city or best buy and check out their cheaper amps. Theres no sense in buying an actual 500 watt rms amp when you're sub probably isn't going to handle it that well anyways.
Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18512
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16443
There's under 200 bucks for an amp and a sub.
your absolutely religious towards this sub lol
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
It's inexpensive and it works very well for those who want a "budget" system.
