WTF I need serious help guys. - Boost Forum
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I TRIED THE MAINTENANCE FORUM ALLREADY AND GOT NOTHING...
Car not Sparking or not Firing properly.
I replaced the following all brand new...
New Primary o2,
New IAC,
New TPS,
New Cam position sensor,
New NGK TR6's gapped at .035 ,
New Coil Pack
New Ignition Control Module.
New Spark Boots
. Since I have major mods and am boosted I am posting here. I have searched for hours on here and didn't get much. I replaced everything spark related and still cannot get my car to run right. I am getting a PO 300 I think which is a random cylinder misfire with a flashing CEL at idle. When it is above 2k RPM it is ok while moving. As soon as i let the RPM's drop and then give it gas, it will not take it. It is missing real bad. The car has been sitting for two years . I now have HP Tuners and I tried to tune down my 440s with the proper injector constant and it did nothing. The car is running really rich I think since it is not firing properly. I checked all fuses also. I did not replace the Crank Position Sensor yet. I have had nothing but problems with these Green Tops since I got them. Could one be jacked up. How would you know? I know they are wired properly , I know my pump works. I have a full tank of 93 octane gas with a can of heat in it. I have addressed every problem I could think of spark wise. Please any advise at all is helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to read this all .
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
are you sure its misfiring or breaking up? if its breaking up it could be a fuel issue.
Well that is where I am unsure. I have to start assuming that it could be a fuel issue . But can the flashing (C.E.L. P.O. 300) be caused from too much fuel or not enough? It is running so rich and puffing out the exhaust so much I assume it was not only getting fuel but getting too much of it still and that is why I assumed it was spark related.... My air fuel ratio is in the low 10s . I have tried not only tuning these injectors down with hp tuners but also turned the fuel pressure itself down in the process in order to lean it up . And it will not change no matter what I do. Still about a 10.2 Air Fuel mixture on my wideband. I am so pissed. I finally get the car back together and it will not run right.
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
Have you done a compression test on it and double checked that your timing hasn't jumped a tooth?
is there fresh gas in the tank now? or was there some 2 year old gas still left in it?
maybe put the stock injectors back in just to rule that problem off the list.
What should the compression be roughly on a healthy 2.4 twin cam motor?
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
Looked at your map sensor or the vac line leading to it lately? Misfiring at idle and running rich to me means that the map sensor isn't giving the computer any kind of input.
Give it a good look, if you have a spare, swap it and see. And inspect the vac line it tends to tear and crack.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
OK I will check it out Chris thanks. I am also about to perform a compression test to see what I read across the board. I am reading that a 2.4 should have 180s and above for good compression. and nothing below 30% of the highest reading is good. Also to pull the fuel pump relay,keep the throttle plate open, and pull all four plugs at the beginning.I will be back soon with some results thankyou again guys
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
To me it sounds like its running really rich. Spend 250 and get a wideband. Tow it up to a muffler shop. Install it. Take it home and start it up. From there it should most likly start up rich as hell and then work its way back to somewhere between 14 15. Give it a little time and let it warm up. If its still in the 10's which it prob is fix your injec. constant. Let me know if you get a wideband and install it and what your air/fuel is. Good luck bud
also it wouldnt hurt i would think to swap in a new fuel filter.
i am just leaning toward crappy gas, as i know in my z24 once, and my other gas operation items, if i had gas sitting in there for a long time, it acted up till i got good gas in there.
good luck non the less.
Thanks Jake that is a possibility. And BoostedBaby I do have a wideband . Innovative Motorsports LM1 with XD1 digi recordable guage along with HP Tuners Pro Software. I also weld and designed the whole kit myself. But thanks.
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
I ran my car for 40 mins last year without the MAP sensor plugged in. (Doh)
The car ran so rich at idle... 10:1.. but it wasn't consistent it was all over the board. No amount of HPTUNING fixed it, it just kept running richer and richer. I knew something was up and found the issue.
The car also ran like a bag of ass and stalled out the second I revved it.
It's incredible how a map sensor can cripple the engine like that.
Check it out. You never know.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Compression test results :
#1= 210psi
#2= 225psi
#3= 230psi
#4= 220psi
Chris I also checked the wire to the map sensor and it does look a little warn out but does not seem to be cracked or torn anywhere. I will replace it tommorow first thing. Are these compression results in the range of what is considered satisfactory???
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
compression looks good. So you have compression, you have spark and you have fuel. The quality of the fuel is definitely something to question. I would drain the fuel and run a fresh tank with octane booster through it and replace the filter. However, that would not explain why you are running EXTREMELY rich.
I would break out a voltmeter and get on ALLDATA and find what the voltage specs should be for each sensor and make sure you're in range.
You can test the injectors to see if one is spraying more than others. The way I do it is remove the fuel rail but keep all fuel lines and wires plugged in. If the injectors are secured then you have no worries of them popping off once you reach max FP, otherwise you will need to rig something to hold them to the fuel rail. Have someone just turn the motor over while you watch the spray pattern and amount of fuel coming from each injector.
Get that new crank sensor in there as well and double and triple check your timing.
Thankyou Jason Sims that is some good suggestions.
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
dont get the crank sensor. as if it was bad the car wouldnt run at all.
DRIVE HARD OR DONT DRIVE AT ALL!!!
The only way I can get it to start is if I put the pedal down to the floor then it will start sorta lol. Then to keep it running I have to hold it at 2k rpm's for a minute or so then I grin as I let go slowly to see if it will idle. Then if I get it to that point is when it runs super damn rich and I get the flashing CEL. I have PhilioZ24 coming over thursday with his Tech2 and multimeter to see if we can diagnose the problem. I will keep this post updated guys
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that is cool to have a friend with a tech 2.
I couldnt see it being timing related. I am sure it ran fine for the most part before you parked it right?
i forgot to add to re check your injector wiring, make sure it is good.
Jake it ran rich as hell from the 440cc injectors before I parked it . But that was the only problem . I am going to recheck the injectors. I know the colors are all the same and what not but maybe there is a poor connection in the connector or something....Thanks man. You sold me my 310cc injectors a few years back do you remember?
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
Hey Luke whats going on man. My guess would be a bad map of some sort, being wiring or vac side.. If not I had a really odd problem like this back in the day. My Crank sensor wiring had got sliced but not all the way cut like 2 feet down the harness. it would cause me to like fire on every other stroke, then die. If you cant find a bad part then go through the harness and look for cuts or anything along those lines.....
How Did the turbo work out for you man?
What did you do to prevent the MAP sensor from seeing boost? Once that MAP sensor sees a positive atmospheric pressure it raises hell with the ECU and you car will not run normal until the ECU is cleared by disconnecting the battery for a while then hooking it back up. You need to run a check valve setup with your MAP sensor so that it can see vacuum but not boost. First clear your ECU and start it up, see if it idles right then. DO NOT rev it up.... like i said if it sees boost it will freak out again and cause problems. If it idles normal right after this, then that is your problem.
Vulcan Turbo, LLC wrote:What did you do to prevent the MAP sensor from seeing boost? Once that MAP sensor sees a positive atmospheric pressure it raises hell with the ECU and you car will not run normal until the ECU is cleared by disconnecting the battery for a while then hooking it back up. You need to run a check valve setup with your MAP sensor so that it can see vacuum but not boost. First clear your ECU and start it up, see if it idles right then. DO NOT rev it up.... like i said if it sees boost it will freak out again and cause problems. If it idles normal right after this, then that is your problem.
This does not apply.... According to his registry, he is running the GM reflash...
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
ya i was thinking about that yesterday. i knew i sold you something.
Map vacuum line disconnected/plugged.
Or a problem with the injectors.
Put the smaller injectors in, take the plugs out and clean them off (or replace), and see if it runs normal.
KEN 5.7 wrote:Hey Luke whats going on man. My guess would be a bad map of some sort, being wiring or vac side.. If not I had a really odd problem like this back in the day. My Crank sensor wiring had got sliced but not all the way cut like 2 feet down the harness. it would cause me to like fire on every other stroke, then die. If you cant find a bad part then go through the harness and look for cuts or anything along those lines.....How Did the turbo work out for you man?
Hey Ken it hasn't ran yet believe it or not with the new turbo I traded you for also thank you for the good suggestions , I will check that.
Quote:
This does not apply.... According to his registry, he is running the GM reflash...
Yes that is correct. I am running the gm reflash and two bar map. Everything is in place to make this one bad machine. I have all the right stuff now I just need to get it running haha.
Quote:
Put the smaller injectors in, take the plugs out and clean them off (or replace), and see if it runs normal
I don't have the 310cc's anymore Ken5.7 got those I think. Also the plugs are brand new guys.
Thankyou everyone for the suggestions . Any little detail is something I am considering as a possible problem . I am compiling a list together for thursday.
Equipt with Replacement for Displacement components
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