last weekend i finally installed my 3.1" pulley (among a few other things). I've been taking it easy on my car the last few days because i put in a new clutch a couple of weeks ago. I let it go for the first time last weekend after i had my new exhaust put on and the thing pulled like crazy. Now, two days ago, i noticed at wot in 3rd at about 6000 rpm my dash lights started to dim....odd...haven't driven my car for like 2 days, just took it out for a spin, now the dash lights dim and the headlights dim and my car just kinda gives up in high rpm in third and my car went WWWAAAYY lean when the lights started to dim. started off at about 12:1 then spiked to 17:1. Battery? Alternator? Any one notice this after putting in a new pulley?
sounds like you voltage regulator is fried
sounds like you have a bad ground.
01' Z24 5 speed
422whp/400wtq
T4 Turbocharged
Built LD9
HP Tuners
HOw old is this car. Well i shouldn't ask that alt can go bad fairly new. Replace batt for 50 bucks if old. IF still does it most liley your alt i think is going bad. Your car went lean prob because of not enough power for the fuel pump. Dont drive no where you can might b braking down soon and not starting back up due to loosing power.
Hard-wired fuel pump > OEM Wiring
So I took the car to the dealer today, testing it as it went and it seemed to be a bit better....they took the car for an hour, called me...nothing wrong. wtf? They said the alt was fine and they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. I took the car out for a spin tonight and it's still breaking up top end and leaning out and the dash lights still flicker like crazy. I'm stumped. I think I'm going to check all the grounds and throw and new battery in it just for sh its and see if it makes a difference.
Start by just replacing the batt. Your battery is what electricity flows through to your engine i.e. coil dash radio head lights etc. Also your readings from the voltmeter seems like the regulator is going out.
Did you have your car tuned when you installed the 3.1 pulley?
Andrew Anderson wrote:Start by just replacing the batt. Your battery is what electricity flows through to your engine i.e. coil dash radio head lights etc. Also your readings from the voltmeter seems like the regulator is going out.
Did you have your car tuned when you installed the 3.1 pulley?
incorrect. the battery is there for starting purposes..... the power to run all of the electronics in the car come from the alternator.... otherwise you would replace your battery like AA battery's in your girls vibrator.... as for the problem. i would get the alternator checked, as well as the battery. most shops will do this for free. from there i would start looking for loose, or nasty grounds. have you done the big 3? if not, sounds like a good time to have a reason!
Z24BaLler wrote:Andrew Anderson wrote:Start by just replacing the batt. Your battery is what electricity flows through to your engine i.e. coil dash radio head lights etc. Also your readings from the voltmeter seems like the regulator is going out.
Did you have your car tuned when you installed the 3.1 pulley?
incorrect. the battery is there for starting purposes..... the power to run all of the electronics in the car come from the alternator.... otherwise you would replace your battery like AA battery's in your girls vibrator.... as for the problem. i would get the alternator checked, as well as the battery. most shops will do this for free. from there i would start looking for loose, or nasty grounds. have you done the big 3? if not, sounds like a good time to have a reason!
I had the alt and battery checked and they were both fine. Good call on the big 3 tho, i'll give that a try this week.
Z24BaLler wrote:Andrew Anderson wrote:Start by just replacing the batt. Your battery is what electricity flows through to your engine i.e. coil dash radio head lights etc. Also your readings from the voltmeter seems like the regulator is going out.
Did you have your car tuned when you installed the 3.1 pulley?
incorrect. the battery is there for starting purposes..... the power to run all of the electronics in the car come from the alternator.... otherwise you would replace your battery like AA battery's in your girls vibrator.... as for the problem. i would get the alternator checked, as well as the battery. most shops will do this for free. from there i would start looking for loose, or nasty grounds. have you done the big 3? if not, sounds like a good time to have a reason!
The battery is the pathway to which all of your electronics get electricity.....Read the post right buddy. Oh and also read a little about engine electrical and take some ASE's........
Guys, the alternator field (regulator) is controlled by the ECM (computer). The gauges are controlled by the BCM (another computer). See a trend here? Check the grounds, if the battery and the charging system are up to specs, I suspect something RPM related. Check the crankshaft position sensor, (also sends an RPM signal to the ECM), To do it right, you need a digital scope, however you can do a decent job with a multimeter with a setting for checking square waves.
If the battery and charging system are good, move on. Be patient, and thorough.
I picked up my new ground wires the other day, just gotta get around to installing them. Hopefully that will fix the problem. I'm pretty sure that's what it is tho. Other things have been kinda cutting in and out too at lower rpms
new grounds = problem solved. Thanks for the help guys!!!
Andrew Anderson wrote:Z24BaLler wrote:Andrew Anderson wrote:Start by just replacing the batt. Your battery is what electricity flows through to your engine i.e. coil dash radio head lights etc. Also your readings from the voltmeter seems like the regulator is going out.
Did you have your car tuned when you installed the 3.1 pulley?
incorrect. the battery is there for starting purposes..... the power to run all of the electronics in the car come from the alternator.... otherwise you would replace your battery like AA battery's in your girls vibrator.... as for the problem. i would get the alternator checked, as well as the battery. most shops will do this for free. from there i would start looking for loose, or nasty grounds. have you done the big 3? if not, sounds like a good time to have a reason!
The battery is the pathway to which all of your electronics get electricity.....Read the post right buddy. Oh and also read a little about engine electrical and take some ASE's........
True, run your car without the battery hooked up. It'll stil run but if you flip the headlights on at idle, the alternator will not compensate and increase it's output fast enough and the engine will stall.
Your stock battery should be enough to keep everything up, even if the battery is shot, as long as it's running. If you wan't you can get a deep cycle battery, but you'll have to oversize a bit when going to a deep cycle. No real point to it though unless you have a huge electrical demand.
Sounds to me like the alternator is probably bad. At high speeds it's not making anything. You'll lean out because your fuel pump slows down at lower voltages and the fuel injectors don't open as well at lower voltages, and the pulse width would need increased to compensate for a lower voltage. It's also probably good to note, that if the alternator is turned on and NOT generating power (such as being activated with the engine not running) it will draw power from the system.
