5,000 miles ago I put a brand new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing/slave along with a resurfaced stock flywheel in my car. I bled it at the time and everything has been working well for the past 5,000 miles until yesterday.
I was driving the car and noticed it was getting harder and harder to shift. I also noticed the clutch was not fully releasing which explain the difficulty shifting. At stop lights it would try and pull the car forward since it was not fully disengaged.
I then checked for fluid leaks and the reservoir was still full. There were no leaks so I bled the clutch. I got quite a bit of air out the first 2 times I opened the bleeder. After that I got a solid stream 6 times in a row so I figured it was good. I started the car and it went in and out of gear OK. As soon as I got out of the parking lot and onto the street I could feel it getting worse. After only pushing the clutch in about 6 times it was back to the same way it was before.
I find it hard to believe that it just needs bled again. I was the one who bled it when installed and I got it right the first time. It worked just fine for 5,000 miles. To all of a sudden go from normal to not drivable in 5 miles makes me think a part failed. After bleeding it and that only working for the first few times I pushed the clutch in and then not drivable again.
What seems more likly to have gone bad the or is there any way to tell other than replacing a part and seeing if it helps. Again the TOB/slave only has 5,000 miles on it. The master has the same 70,000 miles the car has on it.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
i would change the master first since its cheap and easy to replace, then if the problem still occur, might be your slave (more expensive)
Could also be a leak in the supply protion of the master or a small pin hole leak in the line to the slave. Check it real good for any leaks.
Magik1109 wrote:i would change the master first since its cheap and easy to replace, then if the problem still occur, might be your slave (more expensive)
I called the auto parts store and the master is not available through them yet. Still dealer only item. I called the stealership and the cost is $160 for the master and the slave was $113 Since the master is easier to get to and has more miles I decided I will replace it first. Chris Taetsch was able to get me a new one from the dealer for about $100.
I have been told that GM redesigned this part with a different line. If this is the case I will post up the 2 side by side so this can be seen.
I also talked to clutchmasters technical support. I was told there is no way to tell for sure which is bad at this point unless one is leaking. They insist that they get theres from the exact same place that supplies them to GM so there would be absoluty no difference between theres and the stock. They also advised me to replace the master first because of the mileage and ease of replacement. I was told that if indeed it was a bad slave it would be under warranty.
I will be checking it again real good for leaks as well as the condition of the O-ring where the line connects to the slave.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
rockauto.com sells them from 40$ to 89$ but its non-stock item
Go this route if you can....GM re-designed the clutch master cylinder in 05. It has pressure line going from the master cylinder to the tranny (with a metal section in the middle) the old style master could cause the TOB to go bad.
GM P/N - 24233064, and yes it is a complete unit. It comes pre-filled.
Before buying those parts do this. Check you bolts on your pressure plate. You can do this without pulling the tranny. I had this same exact thing happen. I tried all kinds of things. Even new clutc h master. Those sis not fix it. My bolts on the pressure plated start backing out which keep the clutch from releasing.
FU Tuning
"sounds" like the master's pistion is leaking....
take some pics of them side by side man, so everone can see.
and RDFABS, that is 100% correct. that is why there to be replaced, and because the O\E ones like to make noise....
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
John Higgins wrote:Before buying those parts do this. Check you bolts on your pressure plate. You can do this without pulling the tranny. I had this same exact thing happen. I tried all kinds of things. Even new clutc h master. Those sis not fix it. My bolts on the pressure plated start backing out which keep the clutch from releasing.
this sounds like it might be the culprit...
wade, did you use locktite on these bolts? torque them down?
z yaaaa wrote:John Higgins wrote:Before buying those parts do this. Check you bolts on your pressure plate. You can do this without pulling the tranny. I had this same exact thing happen. I tried all kinds of things. Even new clutc h master. Those sis not fix it. My bolts on the pressure plated start backing out which keep the clutch from releasing.
this sounds like it might be the culprit...
wade, did you use locktite on these bolts? torque them down?
I will be sure and check this. It can't hurt to check. I know I used a tq wrench but that the setting was only something like 20 ft pounds I think. I do not remember for sure I just remeber it was not very high. I think I used lock tite as well.
What are they suposed to be tourqed to?
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
24 I think,....
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
I would also check for pinholes in that line (which is also available separate as just the line). Mine went on my '04 with no warning at all luckily in my own driveway. It rubs on the main harness connector and the bracket for that near the firewall and when I got the old one off it had 1 hole for sure and another just about from it chafing in those spots. I was pissed at the obvious bad routing of it but happy it was just that line and not the slave or anything major.
Sappa wrote:I would also check for pinholes in that line (which is also available separate as just the line). Mine went on my '04 with no warning at all luckily in my own driveway. It rubs on the main harness connector and the bracket for that near the firewall and when I got the old one off it had 1 hole for sure and another just about from it chafing in those spots. I was pissed at the obvious bad routing of it but happy it was just that line and not the slave or anything major.
This is also another thing GM re-designed.
FU Tuning
Wade,did you ever find out what it was??I just got the new 2005 master cyl..
later,james
I am still waiting on the master to arive.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Cody@RD Fabs wrote:Go this route if you can....GM re-designed the clutch master cylinder in 05. It has pressure line going from the master cylinder to the tranny (with a metal section in the middle) the old style master could cause the TOB to go bad.
GM P/N - 24233064, and yes it is a complete unit. It comes pre-filled.
GM PART # 24233064
CATEGORY: Hydraulic Clutch Main Cylinder/Rod
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $158.79
OUR PRICE: $82.58
THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE, i have already died once and im still here so lets just leave it on the track
John Higgins wrote:Sappa wrote:I would also check for pinholes in that line (which is also available separate as just the line). Mine went on my '04 with no warning at all luckily in my own driveway. It rubs on the main harness connector and the bracket for that near the firewall and when I got the old one off it had 1 hole for sure and another just about from it chafing in those spots. I was pissed at the obvious bad routing of it but happy it was just that line and not the slave or anything major.
This is also another thing GM re-designed.
Re-designed when/what? The part or the car? Since I replaced mine I went back and completey removed the bracket for the harness, it had even started to chew up the new hose right away.
Wade Jarvis wrote:I am still waiting on the master to arive.
Brian says's he hasn't gotten payed yet, i need that money to pay for it myself...
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Sappa wrote:John Higgins wrote:Sappa wrote:I would also check for pinholes in that line (which is also available separate as just the line). Mine went on my '04 with no warning at all luckily in my own driveway. It rubs on the main harness connector and the bracket for that near the firewall and when I got the old one off it had 1 hole for sure and another just about from it chafing in those spots. I was pissed at the obvious bad routing of it but happy it was just that line and not the slave or anything major.
This is also another thing GM re-designed.
Re-designed when/what? The part or the car? Since I replaced mine I went back and completey removed the bracket for the harness, it had even started to chew up the new hose right away.
GM redisgned the clutch master cylinder in 2005 I think. Taetsch Z24 might be able to say when for sure. I can say without a doubt that the clutch master in the picture in this post is different than my stock one, and most that I have seen in any J.
FU Tuning
I just got mine from chris and it looks exactly like the one in the pic above. I will get some more pics tonight or tomorrow whe I replace it.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
have fun, that thing is harder to install then the plastic one.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
when im on the freeway going about 65-80(between there) theres a moaning/bearing noise when let off the gas-thast the TOB correct because as you describe wade, my car is doing the exact same thing
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
Matt Gorman(ECOjunkk) wrote:when im on the freeway going about 65-80(between there) theres a moaning/bearing noise when let off the gas-thast the TOB correct because as you describe wade, my car is doing the exact same thing
I am a little lost as my problem has nothing to do with a noise like you describe. My clutch was just not fully relasing and it kept getting air in the line.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Wade Jarvis wrote:Matt Gorman(ECOjunkk) wrote:when im on the freeway going about 65-80(between there) theres a moaning/bearing noise when let off the gas-thast the TOB correct because as you describe wade, my car is doing the exact same thing
I am a little lost as my problem has nothing to do with a noise like you describe. My clutch was just not fully relasing and it kept getting air in the line.
lol, i have all the symtoms as you describe plus the noise i mentioned..sorry
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
Wade Jarvis wrote:Matt Gorman(ECOjunkk) wrote:when im on the freeway going about 65-80(between there) theres a moaning/bearing noise when let off the gas-thast the TOB correct because as you describe wade, my car is doing the exact same thing
I am a little lost as my problem has nothing to do with a noise like you describe. My clutch was just not fully relasing and it kept getting air in the line.
FDR is hurt. look up (online) how to shim up a Rear Diff., how and why it makes noise. and then think about a FWD car.
my F23 did this before i replaced it at 121K
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
