no boost for me until the motor is broken in. wow going back to stock is no fun and it's only been 1 full day. g/f is excited to log some miles on the motor w/ me so we'll be road tripping it to a town near you. finally got all the parts and time to tear my motor down and put the forged internals in. was way under powered w/ the ported m62 and had low compression in 2 cylinders. figured might as well forge it.
goal #1-suspension
goal #2-supercharger
goal #3-built motor (I know not fully built, not sure the extra ~$2K for headwork is worth it for the s/c, see pics below)
goal #4-NWF
goal #5-???
want to send a big thanks to Ben for showing me how to build the motor. he did most of the work. also would like to thank Jake for helping put it back in, etc. Paul for letting me crash at his house one night and not making me breakfast. lastly, Ben's Dad for giving us the 4th opinion on timing and we actually checking the timing. thanks to all others that have unnamed honorable mentioning.
clickable thumbnails for Firefox users
endplate example i need to have modified for dual pass
torn down and on the hoist. it's go time.
in the air intake side
in the air timing cover side, i'm pretty certain my s/c tensioner was leaking badly and caused all this mess
in the air exhaust side (thumbnail fail)
was known for my clean engine bay around here, not after boost
really let it get the best of me, didn't want to keep fighting the filth if it kept coming back w/ out fixing it first
stock internals, not in bad shape, no scoring of the cylinder walls, no blown ringlands like i anticipated, no blown headgasket. not sure how i had low compression
was really lucky i didn't lose timing, broken key
honed the cylinders
really enjoyed the wiseco logo
eagle rods and wiseco pistons 10:1 stock bore, the rods were really impressive on how seamless they looked where they bolt together
drilling required?
what's this for? i'm supercharged
cleaned up the engine bay while Ben went to work
cleaned up the bottom of the head, forgot to get pics of the top and bottom of the block all cleaned up, wore a flat spot on my fingernails
almost ready to put back in
i'm loving the spec stage 2 clutch now, was using a free, used spec stage 3 for a year and it was bad (thumbnail fail)
cleaned the intake ports
stock engine bay now, we were having troubles getting it started so we switched everything (crank position sensor, fuel rail, injectors, spark plugs, etc), found out it was the timing all along, no boost anyways so don't need the extra stuff right now
forged at 113,990
questions, concerns, comments expected. was a great learning process. wouldn't mind doing it again.
my carDomain updated 8/10/09 Forged and no boost
Very nice. How does she run?
So since I see not charger I assume you are going turbo since you tapped the girdle for a oil drain?
FU Tuning
Yea you have to be careful about the timing. It only takes one tooth off and good by valves. The timing on the ecotec is easy. Red link goes to the triangle on the exhaust cam gear, Green link to the diamond on the intake cam gear, and the red link to the white dot on the crank gear. The build looks good so far...
Why not put the boost on(assuming turbo) WHILE breaking in the motor? It's easy to stay out of boost when doing break in. I know its tempting ha
Looks good though. Glad that baby is built
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Thats almost exactly the same miles my car has on it now lol. Maybe I should join the forged group lol. Hurry up and break her in
TheSundownFire wrote:Very nice. How does she run?
runs great. just no extra whine. haha.
WHITECAVY wrote:Why not put the boost on(assuming turbo) WHILE breaking in the motor? It's easy to stay out of boost when doing break in. I know its tempting ha
Looks good though. Glad that baby is built
not turbo. just for the future when i get rid of the s/c. turbo install time will be cut in half. it's not easy to stay out of boost w/ the s/c plus the added heat isn't something i want right now. now to find a tb plate for my s/c manifold & tb to go turbo like the lsj's and will save me even more time.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, August 10, 2009 9:17 PM
my carDomain updated 8/10/09 Forged and no boost
285whpcavy wrote:Yea you have to be careful about the timing. It only takes one tooth off and good by valves. The timing on the ecotec is easy. Red link goes to the triangle on the exhaust cam gear, Green link to the diamond on the intake cam gear, and the red link to the white dot on the crank gear. The build looks good so far...
in 02 gm decided to go with 3 links that are all the same color... both 02 motors i've timed are this way. doesnt mess me up but i think the stock tensioner is what owned us this time...giving it the little jab required to pop it to create tension must have made the chain jump a link... good to know for future reference, if timing is off by one link, the car just wont start
so for breaking in im assuming your going to be beating on it pretty hard right? break it in like your going to be driving it after its broke in with the sc on... thats the best way to do it.
Vincent Morris wrote:so for breaking in im assuming your going to be beating on it pretty hard right? break it in like your going to be driving it after its broke in with the sc on... thats the best way to do it.
this
good looking pics
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
440 miles down and another oil change. def annoyed by the completely stock tune. happy i fixed the rattle of the glovebox after 5 years. rubber washers ftw. now to fix the dash crack. hopefully i can log some miles this weekend again.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:31 AM
my carDomain updated 8/10/09 Forged and no boost
Vincent Morris wrote:so for breaking in im assuming your going to be beating on it pretty hard right? break it in like your going to be driving it after its broke in with the sc on... thats the best way to do it.
Every time I scream "Release", I mean it, you know it. I feel the day. Black 7.
z yaaaa wrote:Vincent Morris wrote:so for breaking in im assuming your going to be beating on it pretty hard right? break it in like your going to be driving it after its broke in with the sc on... thats the best way to do it.
I agree braking it in HARD is they way to go!
Quote:
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear in most car without speeding. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another vehicle when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you drive on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
Quote:
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!
Then, using 4th gear:
Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.
The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.
You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.
This is the procedure
I believe is the most effective.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
