blu's 04 Supercharged Cavalier build - Page 9 - Photos & Media Forum
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What about the price of it? I thought I read somewhere here on J-bo that the lsj TOB is 1/3 the price, but just a little fab to get the line hooked up?
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
the F23/L61 slave is a lot more compared to the LNF/LSJ throw out bearings. But then again they only come with the tob part, not the rest of it. But as far as i know, the bearing part itself is the same amongst all three really.
the custom work isnt all that much. PJ did it where he just bought the $30 elbow, some fittings, tubing, and bent it to fit as needed. Then the master cylinder line runs into that elbow and the other end goes through the tranny housing into the throw out bearing. But with the F23 stock set up, i can literally bolt in the new one, master plugs directly back in, done. on rockauto it was $99 shipped for a brand new one, name brand (same as from the dealer). At the dealer, the F23 slave set up at employee cost is still like $208. LNF was about $60 at the dealer. So yeah, F23 is a lot more expensive but the $99 price i found to just plug n play was worth it to me. Plus i can sell the LNF/LSJ one back as they go brand new for $70+ or so online.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Thought I'd ask. Plus if you did use brake line, you could paint it and make it an accent color that would look pretty cool. Like YELLOW, best color in the world! lol
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
So if I wanted to run the lsj upgraded clutch, all I would need is the spacer correct? /threadjack
"In Oldskool we trust"
correctomundo! in theory anyways lol
I have yet to test the adapters usefulness, but i suspect upon getting home from work today the GMPP clutch should be waiting for me. This weekend I plan on getting the engine/tranny all buttoned up and ready to drop in. So we'll see! I may install the tranny without the spacer just to test and see
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
I'm planning on dropping my motor and tranny in too this weekend... Well not both engines and trannys in your car!
Can't wait to see yours when its in. Take some pics of your "new" clutch setup so we all can see what
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
it looks like
To turbocharge, or not to uh, uh..... eh, that last part don't matter.
well to be honest, the clutch/pressure plate wont really look much different than stock. its a thicker material or has stronger springs or something, but you can see it on crateenginedepot.com (http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Ecotec-LSJ-Clutch-Upgrade-Kit-19212712-P10781C701.aspx)
It should be at my front door as we speak (chris, you stay away from my house!!)
but i have class from 6pm-1030pm tonight so it wont be going in tonight.
prob work on it tomorrow through Friday so i can get everything set by this weekend.
i cant wait either. i miss driving a standard, i miss accerlating onto the highway and hearing the whine, and i miss going to meets and hanging out. just not the same with my truck
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
so...apparently its possible I already HAD a GMPP upgrade clutch. I bought it used off monograt who sold it to me as a lightly used 'stock' LSJ clutch. So maybe I can sell the used upgraded clutch with the brand new TOB from the new kit and even the pressure plate bolts as a package...interesting...
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
For a clutch alignment tool just find a deep socket that's very close to the size and use it, that's what I did, works like a champ.
I see the difference... Can't you tell the new one is shiny?
Did you say my car looks slow??
Snowman, yeah I figured for the cheap price I'd do it proper. I havent ever done my own clutch or transmission work so I wanted to do it right. Ill keep that in mind though! CED is shipping me the tool and it should be here by tomorrow.
Abe, yeah now that you mention it..the new one is shinier!! lol
The only downside to putting a brand new clutch is the clutch break in period. with the used one I wouldnt really need it.
But Im going to need to have the car properly tuned with HPTuners once its all back together, but i wont be able to too much hard driving for a few hundred miles. I want to say the break in for clutches is what, 500-900 miles or something of normal driving?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
I would agree with that amount. The break in period disclaimer for my stage 3 Spec clutch kit is "500 miles. Preferably in town (Stop and go). Before you do any 'power launching', 'power shifting' or such like will void the warranty" paraphrased, since I threw my disclaimer away lol
Did you say my car looks slow??
Sweet!
GMR has got nothing on this
Looks great man keep it up!
"In Oldskool we trust"
thanks...but Im hesitant to drop the motor back in until I can find out if the position is legit, and ensure the TW is in the proper position as far as notch placement when bolting down the Crank bolt. Id hate to get it in then find out its off. Or what I'm fearing is if the engine goes back in and the bracket is too far out and wont fit...that will suck balls...
But I did pick up a brand new thermostat (the Duralast one for the Cavaliers is identical to the Cobalt ones, they don't even offer alternative options). Also got the TW all painted up Cherry Orange. And Ive purchased some wire to extend the CPS connector (and like Matt said, ill be sure to twist the pair of wires good to prevent interference).
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
In response to your post in Haveblue
Typically the anodized fittings are for -an lines. Ive never saw a npt fitting unless it was changing from npt to -an.
That being said from pictures you wouldnt be able to do what you want. you want to face both fitting towards eachother and connect them with a very short line like a couple inches? If your going to convert from NPT to -an with 90* fittings and such your kinda wasting money. Thats like $30 in fittings...atleast where I live
The cheapest way to get fittings is the plumbing isle of Home depot or airline fittings from any parts place. Youll need to decide on a inner hose diameter you want and a fitting that will fit that and also the thread size on the adapter. It looks to be 1/2" but really hard to tell from pics.
The AFPR you bought is for the LS1? Is it the one thats made to fit our rails like Yellowcavs or is it just a random one?
I guess I don't know what Im asking then...as I said I don't work with fittings very often. Basically yes, I just want to loop two 90* fittings and make it look neat at the same time.
so for the oil adapter, its basically the threaded fitting on one end (screws into the adapter) and then a nipple on the other end to put hose onto. Then just run rubber hose or something between the two. I figured it would be that simple but I get confused about about braided lines sometimes because I bought some for a vacuum line and (for the boost gauge) and the anodized part was just for looks, it didn't have threading on it.
the AFPR..did you mean LSJ not LS1? But I bought it for the L61 fuel rail, for my 04. I was hoping to use it. I understand it basically has 2 lines for IN and 1 line for OUT, then the vacuum line. Im just not 100% sure on how to tap into the fuel lines and prep everything for install. I guess I need to go tear it apart and really see it. Im a visual learner and once I see it online it makes complete sense
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
oh..no mine is external. I see what you're talking about now.
And I went and got some proper aluminum angle that will be a bit sturdier and allow me to rearrange the sensor so its not sticking out so far...giving me more clearance from the engine bay.
But I bought some 1/2" fittings for the oil cooler adapter. 1/2" threading to 1/2" ID nipple/nozzle, so I could run a short bit of hose between them. However, I got home and the fittings don't work. They'll thread in but they are loose and don't fit properly for my taste. So Ill need to take care of that later, at least before turning the car over..but its not dire.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Philly D wrote:Yellowcav knows the correct number as there is a couple versions.
Aeromotive #13106
13107 and 13106 are the same thing except the fittings are rotated 180* to accommodate both fuel rails on an LT1.
Since you're going external what you have will be fine. Do you have any pics of how the an fitting is installed on the fuel rail? Just curious how you made that work or if you used some sort of gm adapter. You'll love it though, the boost reference is clutch.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Stock is boost referenced as well
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