Here is what I found. I haven't found all the pics yet. I've posted these before on the ORG so I don't expect too many wow's...anyways:
Here is the mount used to support the engine when you have the transmission seperated.
Droping the subframe. That was annoying!
Same deal...another angel of this cool device! Have to love the guy that invented this!
Starting the install...
This graph shows the 3000 RPM stall and how far the shift was extended compared to a normal converter.
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2000 rpm is about all i can get out of the stock converter. i work in an automatic transmission shop, Alison automatics to be exact (they area division of GM), and i can tell you first hand anything you can do to lower your trans temps will be a good thing. this is aproximate but, for every 20 degrees you lower the operating temp of the transmission you will nearly double the life of your trans. now dropping 20 degrees is harder to do than you may think, but you get the idea. just think...your stock cooler is being cooled by the engine coolant, which means it will be around 180-195 degrees at the lowest (while cruising at a decent speed), and when you sit still (stoplight, etc) coolant temps can rise to 220 or so degrees. possibly more inside the trans due to lack of air flow under the hood while sitting still. now if you have an external cooler, mounted in a good airflow location (preferably attached to the metal bumper of the car in front of but not touching the radiator) it will be getting cooled by air that is maybe 90-100 degrees at max. also it will be outside of the worst of the heat underhood. just some things to ponder....
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so roughly how long did it take to do? i know the subframe is the worst of it all.
i also see you have the cooler lines still attached, what all did you have to disconnect as in harnesses, shift cable, etc.? otherwise it looks more time consuming then difficult, for me anyways.
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
Volumeking333 wrote:sorry to post jack roy..
does any one know where to get a higher stall convertor for the 3 spd tranny (3t40?)
The TH125C/3T40 came in many vehicles with just as many different engines, all having different gearing sets. GM made many different torque converters for these many differnt combos. To add to this array the 440-T4, 4T60 and 4T60E used the same TCs. The trick is to find one that matches your vehicle weight, engine output, gearing and then adjust for the K-factor of the TC.
Using all that info and with help from my tranny shop and research from companies like DACCO Transmission Parts, Transtar Inc. and Aceomatic Transmission Parts, I was able to find a TC to fit my neededs. This was no easy task, but the research was worth it. The TC I ended up with had a stock stall of 2560 rpm, but with my set up works out to be approximately 2586 rpm, which puts me just a little on the low side below my torque peak, but its better to be low than right at torque peak or too high.
Most, but not all, 3rd Gen J-Bodies with the 3sp came with 3.18 effective gearing(2.84 final drive and 37 tooth drive chain gear and 33t driven gear), a TC with a stall of 2375 rpm and weigh approximately 2600 to 2800+ lbs depending on body style and options. If you find a car with the same weight, gearing and torque peak at the same rpm and you could use that cars TC for an increased stall.
GM book time is about 9.5 hours. That is plenty of time to swap it and still have time to screw around even if you have some technical issues. Don't forget to install a cooler! Me and Event have our coolers installed oppisite from one another and the temp seems to be approx the same. Just follow instructions
You have to remove the starter, tranny cooler lines, axles, unbolt the sway bar, stuff like that...
I still can't find all the pictures...
Here are some guesses from the before and after charts I got from AutoTap. Looks like a 100-150 RPM shift extension.
I did a before and after run both going to 80 MPH...
BEFORE:
It brake stalled at 1750.
after 1st shift it dropped to 4100,
then 4250 after 2ed
AFTER:
It brake stalled at 3000.
after 1st shift it dropped to about 4200 (the graph scale is different)
then 4200 ish again after 2ed
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so are you saying an aux cooler is required with this converter or should i still check the temp first?
thanks for the info
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
any aux cooler should be on any performance vehicle BUT the size you get should ONLY be after you have a guage and know what the temp is...
operating range is 175 to 195... for every 20 degrees over you half the fluid life.
i might have posted that already on page one, but it even says this in the gm shop manual for operating ranges.
the post where i listed time and etc was here
http://web.archive.org/web/20031228174250/www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=41&i=1893&t=1893
on temps i do believe mine although similar were a bit lower.....
line cools through the radiator first, then to the external cooler, then back in the transmission. thats how the directions stated to do.... i just try to do all major projects on my car by the directions given, not just for warranty reasons, but the manufacturers know better. i know that in the summer trans temp will be higher due to the facts as ian clark listed... coolant temp will affect tranny temp...
i feel its a bit more under heavier use as the cooler the fluid, the better it can be utilized.
i;ve reversed it over the winter, from being bored and willing to try something new, but my temps avged 178-183 even cruising speeds.
since going back to out the trans, to the rad, to the external cooler, at hottest times in the day, i;ve gone even lower, and in traffic stop and go, i sit at 175-179....
so that way proved to be more efficient. keeping the fluid as cooled as possible before it goes back into the pan, cause once its there, its gonna be picked up and pressurized, which will raise the temps again. thats just my view.
completely understood i'll have to make that my next immediate add on then after the gauge that is.
roughly how much more fluid did you have to use? i know that varies on the size of the cooler but there cant be that much size variance for these tranny needs.
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
Yea, I think Event's was a bit lower. We did use different coolers and live in different parts of the States though. Who knows... I would follow the box instructions.
What I would do on the cooler install is after you are done simply go to the dearship and tell them to check it. They do it for free anyways as a customer service deal. I got the CORRECT amount of trans fluid for free, basically. It is a sealed system so there is no way to check yourself. I installed the cooler about a week later. Didn't hot rod it during this time though.
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with auto transmissions the bigger the cooler the better
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan)]with auto transmissions the bigger the cooler the better
not always...
fluids give their best protections in the operating range.... 175--195 is our operating range...
there are some coolers out there capable of doing 40-50 degrees lower...
if you barely are at more the top area of operating range and you drop it 50 degrees lower it may come to a point where you dont reach operating range and the performance will not reach where it should.. i got that directly from flex-a-lite.
most coolers list the amount of degrees they lower it, so it should be based on what you are running now and where you want it to be
I bought one of the Yank Converters off of ebay too. I've got a B&M Shift Plus, and I plan to add an external cooler and an LSD. Who makes the best LSD for the 4t40e?....Thanks!
MetallicMonster wrote:I bought one of the Yank Converters off of ebay too. I've got a B&M Shift Plus, and I plan to add an external cooler and an LSD. Who makes the best LSD for the 4t40e?....Thanks!
so your the guy that out bid me
event , all 4 of the transmission teachers ive had all said the auto trans will last longer the cooler the fluid is
1 of them was using the a/c condensor as a trans cooler on his mid 70's jeep wagoneer , , he got close to 600,000 out of the trans , with just regular service , and he doesnt know how long it lasted after he sold it
the trans fluid is more of a hydralic fluid , than a oil , so the same thermal properties dont apply in the same way
yeah he raised the price up 15.00 off his buy it now price of 200
i swear ebay is bad 90% of the time , because people get into bidding frenzies
and it gives the sellers a false sense their product is is gold
Still a decent price with no core charge.
Yet still a crap shot as to if it won't muck up the tranny.
But yeah ebay isn't as it used to be these days.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
well as i said i bought one and should have it installed by late next week hopefully, and ill let everyone know how it is
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
cool , let us know
i want to know how well it works before i actually buy 1 for the price he is asking now
$215.00 is a good price. Yea, you know he is screwing you when the parts alone are more than the sale price.
I paid 600.00 for it. Factory replacement converters are from 345.00 to 445.00 depending on if you have the core. I have had the Yank converter for over a year and 40 000 miles on it. No problems what so ever. It is a special build for SLP that was discontinued. Try and get them somewhere else. 60103 in the SLP catalouge.
If you call this a crapshot then I wouldn't even try B+M..... If Yank Converters is in a LPE Twin Turbo Corvette, then, I guess they are stupid... Go onto LS1tech.com and dis a Yank Converter and you will probably get kicked off the board for being a noob.
I would even consider buying some to resale at a higher price at a later date.
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i wont complain it even feels like it came with tranny fluid in it already not positive yet though cause i havent taken out the rubber plug. and has new bolts with it to.
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
Hey, I was just wondering if you were planning on a self install or are you going to have a shop do it?
I had a shop do mine. I think Event did too. Shouldn't take too long in a shop.
Also, where did you get your cams? I am very interested in either getting new cams OR trading in for a Cobalt. Still haven't decided.
I have the converter, motor mounts, and poly a arms. I even got an extra head so I could have work done on it and then swap out the whole thing while I was on the cams. I even have the rockers from a late model 4.6L Northstar. They fit directly into the head and are made of solid metal not the stamped metal ones in our heads.
Not sure if I want to sink anymore money in it yet or go to a newer supercharged car.
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ill be doing the install myself in my college class we just got to through the automatic transmission semester of the class so im not worried about the install.
the cams are JBP's stage 2's. they are great cams i think but they arent the best company to work with and a bit overpriced.
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
i wasnt trying to say that your trying to ri us off , more that on ebay people go crazy with the prices of stuff
i didnt mean to be disrespectfull about it , sorry man
last tq i bought was barely over the 100.00 mark for a 2600 stall for a th 350 trans , so sometimes the old school ride prices stick in my head
i have no dought its a good converter , just wanted to hear some feed back on how it felt
the stock 1 in my cav stalls at 2500 or so now
^^^^^^ agreed the stock converter for my 4L60 transmission was only like 150
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
It's ok.
I know exactly what you are talking about. I've seen exhaust systems for the 1970 A body sooo cheap! Then, when I was looking around for J-body I saw a header for 600.00. @!#$ ridiculous for the 5 horses it MIGHT bring on a stock J.
That is the volume game though...more [volume] equals [less] price!
04eco (roy):
After you do your install you need to get some timeslips, pics, and possibily a movie of it going down the track and send it to Dave@converter.cc. He could get you on the customer website.
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