Darren yep sure did but I could only hold the trans for so long lol.

Ok Jason Ill try the axle in idea. Thanks










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I generally set the trans on my chest lol, and have someone from the top grab it as well. Dont forget there are dowels that are needing to be lined up.But also like they said try to rotate the differential.

Ok cool Vince, I have it in neutral as well so it rotates when I wiggle it.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Put it in gear. Your not rotating the shaft if its in neutral. I think that is your headache.

MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:Put it in gear. Your not rotating the shaft if its in neutral. I think that is your headache.

x2 lol. Neutral just free spins. Think about it David Also, make sure a wire is not hanging down or anything. Ive had that happen before as well. Being off a degree even can make things not slide together correctly. Gotta have them at the perfect angle. As a LAST LAST LAST LAST resort, you can thread some bolts in and see if it pulls it in. I would only do that after you have exhausted every option known to man.

I recommended neutral so he could rotate the transmission if it was off at an angle slightly.




Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!

Thanks fellas for the ideas. I actually put it in gear and it went in with the help of a buddy. I painted the brake booster semi gloss. I will finish painting the front of the block tomorrow the same color as the trans. Or I may leave it like it is, its hidden anyway. I got pissed so I left it(see why in text below).



Bad news though. The engine hoist gave way while the engine was hanging about 3-6 inches off the ground and slammed at an angle on the ground, cracking the pan

Good news is though engine is in but the pan is off. Getting welded back up tomorrow morning.

If I didnt have bad luck, Id have no luck at all.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Wow, sucks to hear!!! Good luck on the rest of the swap!!!




Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!

I like it dude, it sucks about the oil pan though, I hope you get that fixed up soon.
As for bleeding the clutch, it's simple, if you have bled brakes, you can bleed a clutch. Just know that after you hold the pedal down and open the bleeder, the pedal will stick to the floor, just pull it back up and continue.

Ouch, that sucks man! Sorry to hear, we all have a taste of bad luck. I'm running 4 years straight of it as far as my build goes lol.

Excited just to see your car back on the road and getting the numbers you deserve

Glad to help. More glad to see it in the hole. Looking good.

Thanks fellas, got the pan fixed yesterday morning, leak tested it then brought it home and slapped it on. I got a lot of accessories on it already. Just need to put a few more things on then it will be on its way to my fab guy's house who fixed my pan to re route the hot side charge pipes.

Oh, yea Darren ill do that asap them. While im at it I have to bleed my brakes as well.












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

So I think I have a slight problem. Looking at the engine it seemed it was a tad crooked, so I measured the distances from the left side of the fuel rail to the front bar and it is exactly 9" away. I then measured the right side rail to the front bar and it is 8 and 3/4". So it is cockeyed. But, im looking at the swap pictures from this thread and my mounts look to be dead on as Alex's. I also have them measured out as the same measurements as the Isuzu to Getrag swap thread. So, im confused.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I just checked mine. Left side 9 inches awa, right side 9 1/4 inches away, from the factory.



FU Tuning

Thanks John for confirming. Darren let me know about an easy fix










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

If you used my measurements off my swap thread it should be exactly what stock from the factory is.

I measured quite a few j's before I did that how to.

Philly, yep I did. I even have a picture from Mark at OEM and his mounts and mine are the same. Im going to work on it tonight and slot the front mount bolt hole back 1/4" of an inch, then have my buddy weld the old hole after I confirm it lines up.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

So, good news and bad news.


Good:
Got the car all together.

Bad:
It wont start

Ill explain the best I can to see if you guys have any answers.

I go to start the car with the clutch in and I hear nothing at all, no usual power noises from the engine, no fuel pumps no nothing is on. Everything from my firewall back is on, including gauge lights, dome light, tail lights. But nothing from firewall forward is working.

The battery is good. I replaced the fuel pump relay, I checked ignition and pcm fuses, the ones in the side panel and in the fuse box under hood, all are good.

I am thinking it is something fuse panel related, the one under the hood. I say that because I have an Aeroforce gauge hooked directly to my obd2 port and that doesnt light up or anything, if there was power to the obd2 port then that gauge should light up.

Thoughts?












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Check your texts

Most of that sounds like it could be the clutch safety switch(i didnt read to see what you did with it).

Ground wires connected?

Tinkles(KGM) wrote:Most of that sounds like it could be the clutch safety switch(i didnt read to see what you did with it).

I thought it might be that too, but the fuel pump should still turn on.

It is odd that the PCM does not have power.




Jason
99 Z24

LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren

Maybe it's in the thread but did you switch harnesses? Or still on the auto?

^^Yup everything from the 2001 donor car is in my car now.

Like Jason said, the fuel pump isnt even priming before I try to start the car.

What we did today was:
Verify the fuse block had power
Verify the fuses on the side dash were not blown and all had power
Checked the 2 grounds under the dash closest to the windshield, those are tight above the steering column
Checked the two ground wires in front of the block.
Battery tray ground is good

At first I still had my 99+ AUTO tuned pcm in the fender, then I just switched to the 2001 MANUAL pcm and nothing at all changed when I tried to start the car, no power, no fuel pump etc.

I still need to check my starter wiring that has the stupid recall relay attached to it. those wires may be wrong but I hooked it up by the terminal ends. Meaning you cant mix them up because they wont fit on the other bolt.

I also need to check to make sure my fuel pump GREY wire is seeing 5 volts back at the tank.

Ughh










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Lights on the cluster come on when koeo. Chances are being you switched to the 00+ harness with a bcm you will need to do the theft lock relearn. I assune you kept the same ignition key cylinder so you still only have 1 key. The code from each device isnt matched yet so it wont allow you to start the car.

When i swapped the bcm in my 03 i had no fuel pump prime or anything until the relearn procedure was done.

Turn ignition on, roll down window. Turn off ignition and remove key.

Close door, all must be closed and stay closed.

Reach in and turn ignition on but do not try to start the car.

Let it sit for 11 minutes.

If you feel lucky, turn ignition off and then try to start the car. Other wise turn off, remove key, put key back in and turn ignition on and dont start car. Wait another 11 mnutes.

You may have to do it a couple timez.

I ended up having to do it 2 times. Dont be impatient and try to rush. Set a timer for 11 minutes. 13 will work but 10 will not. Wait atleast 11 minutes.


"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"