first wave of couplers and clamps came in for the charge pipes.
after popping out the headlights and checking the routing, I had to re-order some stuff and change my initial plans.
no big deal tho, but after I get this wave of couplers and clamps, I will have everything I need for charge pipes except for the actual metal tubing.
I do not have access to a TIG welder, or someone who can weld them up for me, so I'm making my pipes out of 3" 304 stainless steel.
I know, it's heavy, I know it's big, I don't care. When I am ready to upgrade the turbo, the pipes will handle anything I throw at them.
I'm also going to run the system closed (no BOV) which I haven't heard of anyone really doing on a Jbody before.
I don't really believe in the whole BOV thing after researching it more, so I want to try first hand a setup without one.
ps.
inB4 'omgurturbogonnaSplode'
Just going to go with a recirculating system then?
I ran my first turbo LD9 setup w/o a BOV for a little while. The turbo didn't seem to like it, at least didn't sound like it. Chattered really bad
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
I believe the air charge surging back at the turbo has been linked to failed bearings and damaged compressor wheels.......
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Ported Shroud? I would say as long as the compressor housing is ported you should be good another thing I would check is to see if your compressor wheel is a cast or billet wheel. there is a ton of vehicles that run without a BOV stock I am confident you wont have any problems I only ran one cause I love the sneeze
RIP Cpl Derek Kerns And Cpl Robby Reyes
24th MEU VMM-261 (REIN) V22 Crewchiefs
11 April 2012 Morocco (African Lion)
so I upgraded my clutch.
I had a weird issue with the factory LSJ clutch.
the LSJ has a "self adjusting pressure plate". what this does, I'm not exactly sure. but here's what was happening in the car:
1) driving normally, the clutch feels normal.
2) if I rev the engine high enough, and shift, the clutch feels normal. but only the FIRST shift.
3) after that shift, the next shift... the clutch pedal feels stiff and has almost no travel from on to off
4) every shift feels the same if I keep revving it out.
5) when I calm down and drive normal, after a few shifts, the clutch pedal will go back to normal
6) no leaks. no air in the lines. slave was low miles. master was (still is) low miles.
I was going nuts researching what the cause was... some people said the slave, others said the master, others said the pressure plate.... so I decided to just replace every damn thing. (except the master for now)
I was going to go with an aftermarket clutch (exedy hyper single) but after some budget constraints, I decided to go with GMPP LSJ upgraded clutch kit. It's a saab clutch disc with an LNF throw out bearing and LNF pressure plate.
I figure I'll destroy the engine before the GMPP clutch ever slips. I'd rather spend the money on getting the turbo system DONE.
New clutch line. LNF throw out bearing, all -4AN stainless steel braided line. I made an adapter to use the factory master cylinder, but the plan is to upgrade to a wilwood master in the near future.
LNF TOB mounted in the F23
brand new LSJ flywheel with ARP flywheel bolts
I also installed my machined oil pan for extra clearance for 3" charge pipe
on the maiden voyage home, it seems that the "issues" I had with my old clutch are finally gone... it feels really good to have a normal behaving clutch.
turbo coming very very soon
Nice work . . . in for updates!
That's definitely a weird issue you had with the clutch. I gotta say that I have never heard of anything like that in my years.
Good thing it's fixed, now you can move onto the fun stuff.
I like the braided line. Can we use the LNF TOB with the LD9 clutch and flywheel??
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
idk if the TOB is different from eco to LD9... if not, then I don't see why you couldn't use the same stuff.... but again, it's still a getrag, but the TOB may be a different part number..
and chris, more or less.. yes. there are other smaller issues I plan on addressing with this car before it comes back to life with boost.
-I want to eliminate the heavy subwoofer with a much lighter replacement (already in the works)
-I want to upgrade my front brakes to the wilwood 12.19" kit I've had laying around for a while
-I want to rewire and partially tuck the car, and also get it running on the P12 PCM
-relocate a FULL SIZE battery to the rear of the car, and get rid of the problematic motorcycle battery I'm currently using.
not as important, but I'd also like to get a custom A/C line made up so I can re-charge the A/C system. This car is Super DD status... if there's a way I can keep A/C, i'm doing it.
if I'm feeling saucy, I may go ahead with the Toyota EHPS swap that has been sitting on the back burner for a while, so I can eliminate the cam-driven power steering pump.
Nice, glad you got that clutch thing corrected.
this thread is so full of win... and by win I mean LSJ knowledge that pertains to my current swap!
Wanna fab up a CKP sensor bracket for me since I don't have a shop to do all that fancy work in?
Im also looking at the LNF tob upgrade but Ill be using a stock LSJ clutch/pp/fw I picked up that had low mileage (from monograt).
Ill also need to do the cam sensor block off plate..that looks easy enough. What are you using for gasket maker for these plates?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:this thread is so full of win... and by win I mean LSJ knowledge that pertains to my current swap!
Wanna fab up a CKP sensor bracket for me since I don't have a shop to do all that fancy work in?
Im also looking at the LNF tob upgrade but Ill be using a stock LSJ clutch/pp/fw I picked up that had low mileage (from monograt).
Ill also need to do the cam sensor block off plate..that looks easy enough. What are you using for gasket maker for these plates?
i hate to say it, but copying parts is a pain.... and, the material I ordered for the brackets got stolen in work, so I'd have to order more materials, and it's not very cost effective for me. I have to decline.
I used high temp buna-n rubber sheet. I got some from mcmaster for pretty cheap. works like a charm on my PS pump relocation.
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) wrote:
New clutch line. LNF throw out bearing, all -4AN stainless steel braided line. I made an adapter to use the factory master cylinder, but the plan is to upgrade to a wilwood master in the near future.
LNF TOB mounted in the F23
PJ,
What is the part number for the LNF throw out bearing??
Jason
99 Z24
LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren
^
Just to aware you but from my reading the lnf tb has a fairly high failure rate. I'd only use it if you have to.
i thought that was the whole point of the upgrade, is the LNF was considered better than the LSJ tob. stronger, more durable, etc.
Ive got the banhof clutch kid still in mine that came with a new tob/slave, so Ill prob reuse that if i dont NEED the LNF. but if its better, theres no reason to risk a tob failure and have to take it all apart.
will the LNF tob or whatever's in there now, work with the LSJ block okay? like the lines, fittings, etc?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
person A says they suck
person B says they rock
personally, I've seen more people say the LNF is an upgrade compared to LSJ. I have both. So I figured I'd give it a try.
comparing the two side by side, they look identical to me.
the LNF TOB came with my clutch kit, so I decided to use it.
the LNF to LSJ TOB is a direct swap. all the parts are identical
for a Jbody, you need to make a line because the F23 is setup a little different than the F35.
copy my picture, it's pretty simple.
Can you elaborate on this one a bit please? I have a friend who's going to help me make a bracket (he has a welder) and we're trying to figure out why this nice neat set up wont work on the stock pulley.
You said it wouldnt sit flush. So regardless where i put the sensor, the trigger wheel itself will never sit flush against the stock crank? So where Evil had his sitting further down, what would the location of the sensor have to do with the trigger wheel not sitting flush regardless where its at?
Also, can i use steel? It wont interfere with the magnetism of the sensor will it?
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:
first I needed to figure a better way to mount the crank shaft position sensor
this little beauty puts the sensor in a nice safe location, and also replaces the water pump access cover. Nice, secure, and stock.
ended up having to use an aftermarket crank pulley so the trigger ring would sit flush. here's a nice view of the VR sensor bracket I made
top down view showing clearance
from the bottom up
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
The problem is wheel wont seat flush to the stock crank pulley, there ends up being some space where it needs to seat. If you tighten the bolt is till suck the center of the trigger wheel in and deform the wheel.
I simply "shimmed" mine out with a washer behind the trigger wheel so it would clear the stock pulley.
Not exactly ideal, but the motor has been in the car going on 3 years now and probably 20-30k, and it still works likes a dream.
So its the stock Crank pulley period...regardless of where you put the sensor, the stock wheel will not allow the trigger wheel to seat flushed as you tighten it down. And you're already stealing threads from the intended seat location of the bolt, so with a spacer/washer plus the trigger wheel, youre taking the bolt out even further. Im guessing youd want a generous amount of red thread locker on there...
So I either shim it out or buy an aftermarket pulley..... I remember Evil had mentioned that he moved the sensor location (lower/left of the pulley) because they had a stock pulley. What would a stock pulley have to do with relocating the sensor if it would be an issue no matter where you mounted the sensor?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, September 16, 2013 1:49 PM
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:So its the stock Crank pulley period...regardless of where you put the sensor, the stock wheel will not allow the trigger wheel to seat flushed as you tighten it down. And you're already stealing threads from the intended seat location of the bolt, so with a spacer/washer plus the trigger wheel, youre taking the bolt out even further. Im guessing youd want a generous amount of red thread locker on there...
So I either shim it out or buy an aftermarket pulley..... I remember Evil had mentioned that he moved the sensor location (lower/left of the pulley) because they had a stock pulley. What would a stock pulley have to do with relocating the sensor if it would be an issue no matter where you mounted the sensor?
every install is different.
it depends on how the owner wants to do it.
the only for-a-fact issue is the trigger ring won't sit flush on the stock L61 pulley.
you can do what newt said, and put washers behind it so it has a stand-off from the surface of the crank pulley, or buy an aftermarket lightweight pulley like I did (btw I am s/c now and converted to 6 rib so the pulley in these pictures is for sale)
positioning of the sensor is wherever you want it, relative to your orientation of the trigger ring. my sensor is up high, so my ring might not be oriented the same way as newt's or oldskool's was, or how phil's was, etc
