yes a read the sticky above. but it wasn't really specific to cavaliers or sunfires. i am looking to buy a cavalier for a daily commuter. and i am about to go test drive one that i want to buy. what are some problem areas or things to look for specifically to the cavalier??
Maybe try giving a year, and model.
my bad 04 ls sport 5 speed 83k miles
loaded moonroof and all that other crap. i just wanna know what im looking for before i buy it.
Look for:
Rust
Scratches/Dings (point any out and get the price down)
Oil leaks
Tranny shift problems
Any engine running problems
Tears in seats
Those are things i would look for if i bought a used car, im very picky.
I think he meant things that werent (obvious) in rust areas look for holes in subframe, listen for worn struts,make sure headlights work.,signals too.,problems ive run into with a 96,in the "saltflats"of canada jan-march.
make sure daytime running lights work... there known for wiring problems with that crap
Any fluid leaks, especially transmission, engine, and coolant? Check the power steering fluid. I can't tell you how many times you can guess the level of care based on the PS fluid. So many dealerships forget to top it off, it's not even funny. Check the brake fluid as well. If any of these smell "burnt" with a cold engine, buyer-beware...
Check for vibrations.
Open the hood while engine is running.
Does it sound rough? Is it bouncing all over the place in the bay like a vibrator left on explosion-speed?
Check the exhaust itself, and the smoke coming from the tail pipe.
Any holes, or rust on the exhaust? Do you see milky-white smoke? Blueish-dark gray smoke? (Signals burning coolant or oil, in that order.)
Dents, dings, rust spots, torn/cut interior fabric/trim.
I know this is obvious, but turn on the radio, all the interior controls, lights, turn signals, etc.
Bounce all four corners of the car. If it takes more then one or two bounces to settle the car, it will need suspension work more then likely.
When you test drive it, do you hear any wobbling, or clicking when you turn? Any clunking?
This is a good start and covers most all the pieces of the car.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
does $6288 sound a little low for a 2004 loaded LS sport 5 speed? with 82,000 miles?
Actually sounds kind of high, unless it's coming from a Stealership...
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
I have seen severe rust in the jacking points on the front of the car due to improper hoisting. If it's bent up down there, walk.
How can you improperly hoist? Isn't the defacto spot the pinch welds?
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
firemachine69 wrote:How can you improperly hoist? Isn't the defacto spot the pinch welds?
I kind of wonded how it's possible until I watched my old J-body tip 30 degrees on a hoist. The tech was looking the other direction. I was nice enough to point it out in time. The car was at the top already.
My Monte Carlos front fenders were bent getting an oil change at a dealer. The car dropped 4 inches in one jolt. The tech pretended nothing happened. The doors hit the fenders from then on every time I opened them. The area around the jacking point was bent up pretty bad. The damaged area was coated in rust when I got rid of it with only two winters on a four year old pampered car.
Both cars started to rust in the damaged spot imediately after. I suppose the scratching and bending exposed some bare metal.
I have to stop watching the guys working on my cars. It's just too hard on me.
I have seen a jack go throught the front jacking point on J's as late as 2001 model. A cars with no rust elsewhere. I had an 88 Cav that ate a bottle jack. I was spot on the jacking point. The metal simply disintegrated and the car dropped to the ground. GEtting a jack out of a car that has essentialy been pressed in by the weight of a car is a tough deal. Especially if you don't have another jack. My next new car will get some bedlinner coating around the jacking points for sure. Even the slightest scratch gets the ball rolling when it comes to rust and the thin metal unibodies are built with. I'm sure this is why so much attention is paid to the jacking point of some european cars.
As long as the unibody is undamaged, entirely rust free, the car drives straight, any J can be a good car. The rest of the issues are simple bargaining tools. J's are pretty cheap to repair. If I were in the market, any 03 plus car would be my choice. I do know of many 2200 cars that have lasted a long time. Several over 400,000km, all with a head gasket job under their belt.
And a head gasket job isn't a big deal on a 2200...
I guess I'll keep that in mind for the lift.
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
He's buying an eco. not an ohv.
make sure to check the blinker fluid. J's have a tendency to leak it everywhere
It's the headlight fluid, stupid!!!!
--------------------------------------------------------
2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
