Has anyone had any problems related to code P0440 and either a faulty or leaking evaporator emissions canister? I was told that this could be the source of the cause of this code that I got on Sat. while on the hwy.

Can anyone tell me where this is located and what should I look for in terms of repairing or replacing this canister? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

I have the same code on my car and have had it for a while. i know what the code is but i have been having trouble finding the exact fix for it. I'm listening for an answer on this as well.

It could be anything evaporative emissions related. So, yes, it could be the evap canister.....

Have the system smoke tested to see where the leak is coming from.

I am really looking for a way to fix this myself, as opposed to going back to the mechanic. I already unloaded a keg full of money on resolving one problem, and now this. If all else fails, then of course I'll have to.

I used to like cavaliers.....until this year.

Take a look at this post. I solved my issue (my tech friend at my local GM dealer says that what I replaced is 90% of the time the cause of the problem - assuming you changed your gas cap first).

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=107051&t=107051#107051


tygriff

Yes thats the first place I would start. (Gas Cap).

You are a life saver. I am going to replace the cap next week, and I'll order this part, and do exactly like you told me. I am hoping that this is the fix. I was also told to look for a "rotten egg" smell in the exhaust fumes as a sure sign of the canister failure. There was no rotten fumes, but that isn't saying that something isn't leaking somewhere.

If all else fails, then its back to the mechanic....but I'm tired of hitting the wallet as a way of fixing this p.o.s. If I can lick the problem myself, then it will be a much bigger (and better financially) relief.

lbls1 wrote: I was also told to look for a "rotten egg" smell in the exhaust fumes as a sure sign of the canister failure.

Incorrect.


A SMOKE TEST WOULD TELL YOU A FOR SURE SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEM.

Now you are going to waste your money on these parts, then you're still going to have to have the system smoke tested.


But you don't have to listen to me.....

As a mechanic, the biggest thing i see as far as codes (the evap one), its people who cant tighten their friggen gas cap

What I want to do is to correct the problem in the most cost efficient way possible. If that means that I should try to do a couple of things on my own, then so be it. I knew right from the beginning that I could drive the car to the mechanic, and with a couple of hundred dollars make the problem go away. The real problem is when you have SEVERAL issues that need to be addressed, with each one costing several hundreds of dollars to fix.

I'll takle this one with one method at a time. This was supposed to have been an inexpensive means of transportation. If I need to take it to a mechanic for every little quirk or noise, then I probably should look into unloading this (another gm product) thing, instead of looking at cost effective alternatives. I am hoping that I can solve the problem myself.

BTW: Tyson, what is the name of this part?? Just in case the numbers have changed (been there, done that).

I believe that's the canister close valve.

Ok. I tell you what, let me try the gas cap thing, and (probably will not) if that doesn't do it, I may consider doing a smoke test to tell me where a leak is coming from. I can always opt to fix it myself I suppose afterwards. We'll see.

You still have to have the code cleared even after you fix the gas cap. It wont disappear on its own

Yup....via zee old battery cable disconnect. I would've done it by now, but since I haven't yet taken steps to fix the problem, the light would've come back. So I'll try the gas cap, and then either the canister close valve module and/or smoke test.

I've had this problem, (actually it is still ongoing). I simply have to tighten the crap out of the gas cap (after I clear the code with the software on my laptop). Replacing the gas cap won't do a thing because its the metal edge the rubber mates up to that has become somewhat rusted and porous.

If you don't clear out the code and it is the gas cap it will go away on it's own after a couple of days. I just had it with my car, but it wasn't the gas cap. All I had to do was put gas in the tank. I tightened the heck out of the gas cap and reset the code, but it came back after a few days, then I refilled the tank and it went away two days later.

I still have this light, so something is telling me that I still have the issue. I will try the GM locking gas cap first (Where I work, I do not want to be out there right now without a locking gas cap, with prices the way they are and idiots in abundance). If that doesn't work then I'll try again with the original gas cap. If that fails then I'll look for this module above......or back to the shop (again) it'll go.

^^^ about the locking gas cap.....

Most cars 95 and newer come with an anti-siphon valve built into the fuel tank.

I know, but that doesn't stop the attempt however, or things going in the tank because of spite from a failed attempt.

News Flash!!: The light cleared itself this morning!!!!! Hooray!!!!!!!! Looks like it was probably the flimsy gas cap. I hope the light will stay off, being that I didn't really do anything to try to probe or relieve the problem (I did observe and put the cap on as tight as possible a couple of times)!!!!

My new cap came, but I'll wait a week b4 putting it on...I don't want to spoil the moment!

ok first of all, disconnecting the batter does not clear the code, it just clears the light. the code still exists.

second of all, just because the light went off does not mean that the code is not there, i've had my cel go on, and then went off out of the blue, so i thought i was relieved of the burden, but just to make sure i took my scanner and i scanned it, and i found that the code was still there.

third of all, it doesn't nescessarily take just a couple of days after the problem is fixed before the code will go away. i believe it is like 40 startups or something like that before the code will erase itself. this means that the car has to be started and not see the problem it was seeing 40 times before it clears itself.

so what i'm trying to say is, take it to go see if it is still throwing the code, and if it is, go from there, if it is not, then you might be safe to say that it was just your gas cap.




Goal is to make my N/A Auto faster then a manual without doing engine internals

You happen to be right because guess what? It came back again tonight.

Back to square one. I haven't done anything yet, so maybe one or two things posted above may work.

I am trying not to go back to the shop..........maybe trying in vain.

ok, heres a little help, some people are saying, it is very possible it is your "GAS CAP". so heres what you do, make sure it is tight and that it isn't going to cause a problem. go to autozone and have the code cleared. then drive around for a day or 2, and if it hasn't come back on after 2 days, go back to autozone, have them scan your car, and if no code exist, that is very possible that that was your problem. if you do get a code again, then you obviously know that that is more then likely not your problem. you want to save money and fix it yourself, then you need to think of ways of trying the free things, and checking to see if that works. if not, then it will require you to start spending money, and just because they tell you whats wrong with it doesn't mean they have to fix it, which means your just out some cash for them to diagnos your car. hope that helps.




Goal is to make my N/A Auto faster then a manual without doing engine internals

My problem on this code was one of the little wires, had 2 tiny ones w/ connectors on each end going from I think the evap caniser & something else under there. It was a freggin' $50 part, but solved the problem!


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2000 Cavalier Z24 A4 Green Met.

Exactly what I want to do Martinez. I went to autozone and they scanned it (thus the p0440). I wasn't sure that they also can clear the code. I will clear the code once I get the cap on (busy this week, maybe tomorrow), and then see whether or not it is the fix.