can anybody show me pictures of where the iac and tps sensor is on a 2.2L sunfire non ecotec? my car is reving by itself and someone said to change the iac and tps sensor. there is a junkyard next to my house that has a 2000 2.2l non eco sunfire and im gonna take the sensors out but i need to know where they are at. please any help. im sorry if this is in a search but i really have to go take the sensors out cuz the sunfire wont last and i know it. thanks guys and gals


"Sunfire got stolen, all i have is the J to remember it by"

listening!!! ...well more like watching...

anybody know???


"Sunfire got stolen, all i have is the J to remember it by"

I know the IACs the sensor that sticks out of the air filter tube. The TPS i'm not sure.


Ryan1

IAC is in the throtle body close to the MAP sensor at least in the 2.4

the IAC (idle air controller) is on the throttle body. i'd recommend getting a can of throttle body cleaner and a roll of paper towels and just go at it. the tps is in the same place on almost every computer controlled car that has one, at the throttle plate, opposite side of the throttle linkage.



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IAC motors are usually always threaded into the TB unit

cant miss it


TPs is attached to the TB unit it is on one end of the throttle blade shaft of the TB unit

thje TPS need to be cleaned now and them, lots of carbon and gum buildup on them and also in the hole in the TB unit that they thread into


when they are too gummed up then they usually idle funny/low/somewhat irregularly

also so will a piece of dirt in the EGR in which happens somewhat commonly as well, but not so much as on other engines such as the old 4.3L and will cause startup and then stall immediately

TPS are non servicable, once they get a dead spot in them or totaly die then its time for a new one

but this is a rare thing to happen

MAF failure and IAC carbon buildup are so much more common than almost anything else

so are busted intake gaskets, in which cause higher than normal idle RPM, sometimes so bad that the engines race when idiling




good luck

-96 cavalier 2.2 auto 143k miles

so what is the sensor in the middle of the air intake tube close to air filter?.

recently when starting my car the car revs alot higher and idles at about 1300rpms check engine light permanently on . this only happens in park and neutral. when stopped at a light in drive it idles normal...., before i let a shop rip me off which sensors should i replace myself, if the sensors are cheap enough i'll take a guess at them.

Brian Lindsay wrote:so what is the sensor in the middle of the air intake tube close to air filter?.

recently when starting my car the car revs alot higher and idles at about 1300rpms check engine light permanently on . this only happens in park and neutral. when stopped at a light in drive it idles normal...., before i let a shop rip me off which sensors should i replace myself, if the sensors are cheap enough i'll take a guess at them.

the check engine light is on for a reason. it tells you what needs fixing.



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lol im aware =) , but paying my local shop 75 bucks to check it is a hard thing to do sometimes, but i guess i have no choice anyways

We don't have an EGR system its blocked off.

TPS and IAC are both on the left side of the throttle body.

Top one is the Intake air controller.
Bottom is the Throttle Position Sensor.

The IAT sensor is in the intake tube.

Your IAC may be stuck, you'll need a small torx to get the small screw holding it in. Pull it out and cotton swab the rubber tip and the hole it goes into. Mine was actually gettin stuck and was fully extended. Press the plunger all the way back into the unit. It will self adjust when the car starts up.


-Chris

i just had my car checked out and the check engine light was a abs issue and has been fixed and my high idle is park and neutral remain, so i guess i'll attempt cleaning iac and tps...., if it still remains after that should i replace iac , iat, and tps ?? those sensors are the most commons idle issues yes?

Also clean the throtle body plate and be sure it open and closes properly... if high idle remains I would start by replacing the IAC.Ahhh and after the cleaning reset the computer just in case.

y pay $75 dollars to get ur light checked? Autozone and Advanced do this for free

anywhere in ontario canada that wil do it for free?

anyways i cleaned the throttle plate extremely well opens and closes very easily, looks brand new now..., and i cleaned the sensor that was held on by two screws and appeared to be a rubber stopper of some sort, made sure it could spring easily, and also the hole it appears to enter. then left negative off battery for 15mins, reconnected... still high idle, what other sensors should i clean? i think there were two other ones there.

edit: so today i continued with that rubber stopper one to find that it will not budge in or out, not sure if its suppose to or not?. is this the aic? anyways i swapped in one from another 2.4 and my high idle remained and since i didnt have time to sit around with the negative off the battery i put mine in the other sunfire and it idled at about 1000, not sure how it was before( should of checked) but still alot better than my 1500. on my drive home i was able to let off the gas at 50km's/h and the car didnt get down to 40 till about a mile or two down the road when i arrived at my car lol, its like a semi-permanent cruise control . any suggestions guys?

this is some info from 95-00 chiltons, but is good to know about the iac.

to set the pintle position

- turn key to on (do not start car) for 5 sec, then back to off for 10 sec, then start it. for the older ones, you need to measure from the flange to the tip of the pintle and make sure it is 28mm, or 1.1 inch, but this won't apply to the newer ones.

to check the sensor itself to see if it is faulty or not ( i don't think yours is since it's doing it with both iac valves, unless they are both broken)
- measure resistance between terminals A and B, then between C and D. they should both be between 20 - 80 ohms.
- measure resistance between terminals B and C, then between A and D. this should be infinite.

the pintle should move in or out with careful pressure, and usually when you turn the car off if you listen closely you can hear it moving.
i'm not sure how much if this translates into the 2001, but it can't be that different.

anyways, how is your coolant temp sensor? i know when my car (97 2.2) isn't warmed up it will idle high until it reaches operating temp, so it's something you can check. also, definitely get your codes checked, because this could tell you exactly whats wrong. i bought a cheap code reader off of ebay for around $45, it'll tell me the codes, descriptions, and real time info like rpm's , fuel trim, 02 sensor readings, throttle position, coolant temp, calculated engine load, all that good stuff. it's cheaper than buying a bunch of new sensors, and it's obviously not as good as the $150 - 300 ones but it works.





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interesting info.

but yes i already had the codes checked and it was an abs issue and not related to the idle. now no service lights are on but bad idle remains. car idles a little worse when cold vs hot, but it is the worst first thing in the morning rpms are at like 3000 and VERY SLOWLY come down to 1500ish. the longer i drive it the better it seems to be but still after a 30min drive as soon as i park the car up to 1300-1500 it goes, which is very annoying because when you go into drive you can feel the painful jerk , same with going from drive to reverse since it goes through neutral there is a jerk kicking into reverse because rpms jump up a bit.