Usually when cruising around in my car my voltage gauge will read just under 14 volts to a smidge over which is normal. Here is the situation.
Sometimes when slowing down just before stopping(slowing down in say 3rd gear then 2nd gear then clutch in to come to a stop) my gauge will dip to just below 13 and my headlights dim and dash. Somtimes it does this an other times not for days on end. when it does it I can tap the gas pedal and it goes up to normal voltage. If I dont tap the gas it takes maybe like 3-4 seconds to bump back up to normal.
Today it seems to be doing it alot but only seems to when slowing down just before I stop at a light. Why would that be? Could it be a slipping belt?(mine is in real rough shape) Alternator starting to go bad? Im changing the belt tomorrow with a new one as well.
Today since it is really chilly out I had the fan speed on high and heat cranked until it warmed up. Funny thing is....it has been doing this for the longest time(the odd time)but today seems a little worse then usual. Like I mentioned it can run for days without a fluxuation. Then like today maybe 8-10 times earlier today on the way home from work. I drove the car tonight with no symptoms of this.
Here's the question. Can you get the alternator tested while its on the car? See I installed the GM S/C kit last year and it would be a real real real big PITA to have to pull that out to change the alternator.
Any thoughts?
more than likely the alternator.
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
I had similar problems with my auto-trans Cavy, and I think part of the problem was that the autos idle really low. Seeing as you're running a manual, it certainly suggests a more advanced case of an alternator charging problem. Belt slippage isn't out of the question, but you'd probably have noticed noise by now. If you have cheap and easy access to HPTuners, a hike in your idle speed may put off the problem a bit longer -- but it's just a matter of time.
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Im going to check the battery with a mutimeter when running and turned off to test the charging system. I put in a new red top optima less then a year ago. Like I said it seems to only happens the odd time time when clutch in before coming to a stop about 1500-1000rpm.
Found this link on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4NvKBiUc70
The belt does make a little noise and will be changed today.
Voltage Regulator in the Alternator probably
Well being the batt is only a yr old prolly not.But U should do a multimeter check start with the car off check it,should be 12. -12.5 average no drain.Now check car on turn on lights,heat/ac fan high,radio and check voltage again at batt, and alter.Those numbers should be 13.5-14 aver.Now granted in most cases with the car on the voltage is going to be the same on the batt/alt running regardless of a faulty issue.I would clean ur ground wires as precaution and the connections on the altern too.Being the car is only 8yrs old I want say the alternator is going but,electrical stuff can die anytime,while my 87 mazda pu still has it's orig altern!! The regulator can up and puke and u can take it off and get bench tested at auto zone or just go to the zone or advance auto and they can check the charging system for free to see if any descrep show up.The no running voltage is exam of my own rides a 04 accord shows 12.3 or so and my 85 cav the same.Hope this helps give u some direction bc I recently had a batt 8 yrs old show drops in voltage and charged for 24 hrs and went another 2 wks b4 it showd voltage below 12.I got my moneys worth it was a 72 mon batt.
Sounds to be youre voltage regulator is packing it in, Due to I live in a small town they didnt have and brand new alternaters, I had to get a remanfactured one, My opinon it crap, My lights clicker while my car is cold, Then it seems to be better when it warms up, Just another reason not to buy remanfactured electrical componets. Buy them new.
Good Luck.
well if you bought a remanufactured unit, most of the parts strores carry a lifetime warranty against defects
parts stores like autozone, adavance auto parts, and pepboys carry the warranty
the 1st 2 can test the charging system on the vehicle for FREE/ pepboys will charge u... or if u pull alternator out to bench test it, free
I know this thread is dead but since mine went out....If you have an eco s/c you need to switch your alternator to a cobalt s/c version. With the added s/c the belt runs a different way which causes the alternator to spin backwards and will cause the alternator to burn out faster thus the need for a cobalt s/c.
