If the timing was not set properly, how fast would it take when starting the car to bend valves
or do damage? I mean is it instantaniously or after running it for several seconds? I changed
my tensioner just now and had everything back together and started the car. It was grinding so I
quickly shut it off. I'm just assuming it was the timing that was not set properly. If I pull it all
apart again I don't want to adjust the timing properly, put it all together and find out it is damaged
still. Also if it is damaged can it be fixed without removing the engine from tha car?

Being you just replaced the tensioner that would not affect the timing.Unless when u intstalled the part u over tighten it,it really makes no sense that it would have noise.Being the noise was not there b4 means ur part install has a fault or u have a bad part.The tensioner applies pressure to the serpentine belt and unless the tension is to tight or loose would create the problem.I would recheck ur work,and or part if the part does not spring back when u use a tool to say remove the belt I say it's the belt or new part.Unless I am missing something may others correct or add to this.

Unless I am mistaken none of the engines in j-body's have a timing belt. So if you replaced your belt tensioner it would not have any effect on your timing. Like the above said you should recheck what you did and make sure everything was done correctly.

PSN ID: Phatchance249

I'm pretty sure he's talkin about the timing chain tensioner, guys. a serpentine belt has nothing to do with timing.

So I must ask, is this what you are talking about?



Did I mention I drive a 2000 Lumina now?-----wigm-tuners.org member

Yeah it has the chain. I'm going to tear it all down and look it over. When I had it apart I realize now
after thinking about it that I had moved the crank. I didn't set the timing so I'm sure that's it. Now what
I am not sure of is after I set it properly how can I tell if it has done damage. Thanks for speedy responses.

Since you have a 2.4, it's common to change the whole timing set, chain, sprockets, guides and tensioner, and not just the tensioner itself. Is this what you did? Worst case scenario, if the valve timing was off, the damage would be done on first revolution.

The whole timing set was replaced about 6000 miles ago with a new engine I put in so when it was clicking this time I just replaced the tensioner.
When you say damage done on first revolution, do you mean it would have seized or would it still run rough? After I initially started
it I immediately shut it off after about 1-2 seconds. Would that be enough to do the damage?

if it is still running, chances are that valve damage didnt occur, if there is noice, something is prolly hitting the timing cover, pull it back off and see.

Check the timing, and do a compression test to see if a valve is bent. if 1 or more of your cyl. has 0 compression.....you probably bent some valvage.

Good news...It's all back together and no damage done from the timing being off.

Bad news ...The original noise I thought was a bad tensioner is still there.

It's not anything in the timing housing as I checked it over and over this time before I put
it back together. There was no slack at all and I made sure the tensioner was
functioning properly inside the timing housing and out of it.

Only thing I see different now is the oil smelled a lot of gas. It may have smelled like
that when the noise began but, I just changed the oil about 1000 miles ago. The noise
started about 500 miles ago. Could that may be thinning down the oil and cause it not
to get up top and cause the clicking some where in the camshaft housing. When I first
heard the noise I put some of that no smoke oil stuff that's like thick syrup in there and
it quieted for a couple days then it came back. A guy at the parts store said it sounded to
him like some thing was hitting in there. I believe he said something to do with the lifter.

Can you tell if the noise is coming from the bottom end like main bearings or is it on the top end like valve tick.Not to sound corny but it could be a bad wire on a plug or plugs it can cause a shiat load of valve tick noise if going bad.Just somethings to consider.Could be ur valves may need adjustment being the eng is new and may be just a touch out of wack.Now granted u added the sludge stuff and it was quiet but, it could be the valves are not in tolerance like they need to be after driving for the miles you have now,and need to be readjusted.Now if lifter or rods or bearings are noisy ouch.

Flushed the oil just to see what happens and replaced with Mobil 1 synthetic that I always use and also changed the plugs.
Noise is still there. I hear it best with a mechanics stethoscope by touching the 2 top motor mount bolts or just behind the alternator
on the block by cylinder 1. I would say it's more top than bottom but definitely on the passenger side of the engine. I had
somebody else listen to it and they said maybe lifter also. It starts about 10-15 seconds after starting it up and stays. It's worst
at idle and lower RPMs. While driving at above 1500 RPM it goes away although if I let off on the throttle above that I hear it as the
engine RPM winds down. I cant believe it would be too serious as the engine is so low in mileage. At least that's what I want to
believe. I guess next step would be valve adjustment. When I changed the plugs I didn't really inspect the boots or other ignition
components that well so I'll give that a once over also.

I've had luck in the past with STP oil treatment for quieting noisy lifters. But I don't know if you would want to add it to a synthetic oil.

2.2 97 Cavalier......the "Crapalier"

seafoam ftw that stuff works!!!!!



8 psi with m62 and IAT under 100