Hello, I have been having a recurring problem of what I assume is warped rotors. About a year ago I replaced the rotors and pads on my 01 Cavalier because I was feeling a pulsating during braking. It solved the issue. Now I am witnissing the same problem again. I was just wondering if its certainly the rotors or can it be another issue causing the same sensation. As well, is it normal for rotors to need replacement after 1 year, and what are some causes of warped rotors?

If I may I would like to bring up another issue thats happening with my car. After having it up on jacks to see what was cuasing this odd noise I was having, I came to the conclusion that the Springs are binding a little during turning of the wheels, thus causing a deep "boing" or "dooonnng" sound HAHA once it releases bindage and continues turning as per normal. What would be causing that to happen?

Well I hope I was clear enough. and I am looking forward to hearing your opinions on the matters. Thanks in advance.

as for the brakes, sounds like either:
a) your calipers are sticking

or

b) the slide pins need to be replaced.

either way, i would start fresh with new calipers, rotors and pads. the new calipers should come with new slide pins.

as for the issue with your springs, couldn't tell ya, sounds like a rather strange situation.



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The spring noise is the upper strut mounts.

They are poorly designed on most of GM's vehicles.

If you have a strut spring compressor this is easy to fix.

If not and your technically inclined, bring it to a shop with your own parts (Struts removed from car, and new mounts) and say you'll pay cash. All they have to do is compress the spring and "Gun" off the center top bolt. This will release the old upper strut mount and then you can put the new one in. I typically suggest opening the bearing and putting wheel bearing grease around the ball bearings.

Although it's not common, I have replaced about a dozen coil springs on J-bodys that have broke. The top of the coil spring will usually break off and sit in the struts spring perch.

Also, just visually inspect everything, Parts that rub will always be clean on their contact points. I'm about 99.9% positive that the culprit is the upper strut mounts.

Hey Teddy, The strut mounts were just replaced like a year ago as well, it seems like everything is only lasting me a year, seems odd to me..I actually had to replace the drivers side upper mount before christmas, and found it to be totally mangled, I dunno why, but it was missing pieces and was all bent out of shape crazy ha. I hope I was installing them incorrectly. I still don't understand why the mount would be causing the spring to bind up like that. Thanks for the opinions I'll give them both another inspection. Any more thoughts anybody?

**Add to above post**

As Rich mentioned, The Rotor problem will occur if the Calipers are sticking, As well as the slider pins.

I usually find that it's the Pins that go before the caliper. To fix this, you will need to remove the caliper from the brake assembly (remove 2 slider pins, If i remember they are T55 Torx bits.)

When you have the caliper removed you should notice the rubber bushings that surround each pin. You need to remove these rubbers. This is usually the hardest part, So take your time and make sure NOT to rip the rubbers. Plenty of lube should do the trick. (tranny fluid in a squirt bottle).

Once the rubbers are out you will most likely find a build up of Rust or corrosion that is causing the Pin to seize. Chip, file, die grind, the build up away. Once the hole is clean of all rust, take some never-seize and cover the exposed metal inside the caliper slider hole.

Pop the rubbers back in and you should be good to go!

When buying Brake parts I always go with premium rotors, and medium pads.

If you go with premium rotors, and premium pads, I find that the ceramic pad will eat through your rotor much quicker. The cheaper pads will extend the life of your rotors and will spare your wallet and time. Change the pads once a year, and the rotors every 2-3 years (unless abnormal wear occurs).

Calipers are between $75-$120 each. Remember, ~$200 is better in your pocket than in someone else's.

2¢

Yea, it's usually not the springs that bind unless they're broken.

Check out the mounts again, what happens is dirt, salt, water, snow, or any other element will find it's way in there and cause the ball bearings to rust.

I put my money on them mounts

Teddy wrote:
Calipers are between $75-$120 each. Remember, ~$200 is better in your pocket than in someone else's.

2¢

not really dude. our calipers are VERY chap, $20 each. if you're paying $75 you'd better be getting a loaded shimmed caliper with a new hose and mounting bracket.






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sounds cool, thanks again, love this site, thankfully I havnt had to visit it too often, my cavvy has been good to me.

Hey RIch, can you give me a link for the calipers? ... Thanks for the info. I'm def. interested if they come with shims and sliders.

The calipers I buy are from a local shop "Friction clutch and drum", they usually come complete, except for the Flex line on certain apps.

generally when you buy a $20 reman. caliper, it comes with new slide pins and retaining clips/shims if required. the hose? thats another $20 if needed, which usually when a hose goes bad, you know its the hose. go to any chain auto parts store. the price will be about the same and usually, if you're nice to them, buy a whole lot (calipers, rotors and pars, some brakeclean and brake fluid) and they'll give you a discount.



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