Oh boy...this is gonna suck. Car is a 1996 2.2L coupe with a 3AT. So i have a few questions about this stuff. I searched and searched and searched to no avail.

For the rotors and pads: Is there anything special I need to know? Are the caliper bolts different from other cars? I havent looked yet, but my understanding is they are torx heads. If so, what size? My left rotor actually is cracked almost completely in half and is eating the crap out of my pads so they need to be replaced. Going with Lifetime warranty Duralast Gold. nothing but the cheapest for my cavi .

The outer tie rods are going bad, the boots look pretty screwed up. no biggie. Anything different here? Going to DIY the alignment, fudge it. LOL!

Ah...ball joints. I know on some cars they are not removable, and you have to buy the whole LCA. Hope thats not the case here.

and finally...the DAMNED REAR STRUT MOUNTS!!!! where do i get them and how do I replace those? been a mechanic awhile, and never encountereda situation (in almost a decade of fixin stuff) where I had to replace these...HELP! they are driving me NUTS!


2006 Honda Civic EX Sedan AT-Galaxy Grey Metallic Pearl, 37,000 miles,Loaded with everything except Leather and Nav, Tint-5% rear, 20% front, Calipers painted Subaru WR Blue, Ipod Integration, XenonDepot 4300K HID Conversion kit, Debadged, Optima Red-Top, No performance mods because its an auto, and its under warranty.

*Bump*


2006 Honda Civic EX Sedan AT-Galaxy Grey Metallic Pearl, 37,000 miles,Loaded with everything except Leather and Nav, Tint-5% rear, 20% front, Calipers painted Subaru WR Blue, Ipod Integration, XenonDepot 4300K HID Conversion kit, Debadged, Optima Red-Top, No performance mods because its an auto, and its under warranty.

caliper bolt is a 3/8 hex, if your gonna go to AutoZone for stuff, get Duralast rotors, Duralast Gold CMAX pads (ceramic), and duralast ball joints, tierods and the Gabriel strut mounts. Ball joints are a bolt on ordeal. For the mounts, spring compressor, unbolt top mount, mount new one, release spring compressor. Use a wall mounted compressor if you can. Anything else. And someone add or correct this if i'm wrong. Just get those brakes, theyre better quality then the regular golds, even at $50. And the Duralast rotors are 2 year warranty, the 1 year Valucraft warp like nothing. Trust me, I work at AutoZone, some of the stuff is junk, just dont go to cheap.

03 Sunfire - Sold.

if your a mechanic you need to die in a hole now. im glad youve never worked on my car. nd what the hell is a 3AT cavalier. never heard of it. must not exist

It's a 3/8 hex/allen for the front caliper slides. Take the wheel off, take the 2 slides off the caliper, hammer the rotor off, slide new rotor on, compression brake piston, remove old pads, install new pads, clean and lube the slides and reinstall.


For a tie rod end loosen the jam nut, remove the one nut holding it to the spindle and pop it out of the spindle, unscrew the end screw new end on, retighten jamb nut and nut holding it to the spindle, greese it go straight for an alignment.


For the ball joint, remove the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, drill out the 3 rivets holding it to the control arm, install new one, it comes with bolts instead of rivets, put the bolts in, hook it back up to the spindle, tighten the nut and put a new cotter pin in.


For rear strut mounts there's 2 nuts on the rear strut towers from in the trunk, then 1 bolt from in the bottom of the mount and then 1 big bolt holding the strut to the rear beam. Remove those 4 bolts and its out. Put it in a spring compressor, take the nut off remove the mount put on new mount, tighten nut and reinstall in the car.


I'm call BS on you being a mechanic, If you were a mechanic you would have access to resources to find all this info, not that you need it for something so basic. All of theses items are extremely extremely basic and anyone could figure out how to change them simply by taking the time to look at the car, its all pretty self explanatory.

Wojo wrote:if your a mechanic you need to die in a hole now. im glad youve never worked on my car. nd what the hell is a 3AT cavalier. never heard of it. must not exist

3 speed automatic transmission

LoL yea he is definitely not a mechanic by far. Just look at his modifications to his car, all I see is b/s and debadged.

Why in the hell would I mod a 13 y/o cavalier? or a Honda civic with an auto trans? No point IMO

I do all my own work. WTF do you mean I am not a mechanic?



and a 3AT is a 3 speed Automatic Transmission.

Im just making sure I have all my ducks in a row like ALL good mechanics do.

Quote:

LoL yea he is definitely not a mechanic by far. Just look at his modifications to his car, all I see is b/s and debadged.

So because I choose not to mod a car thats nearly new and still under warranty, Im not a mechanic? whatever guy. keep thinking that @!#$. Im glad I dont have to work on your car. I wouldnt want you for a customer. Oh yeah, and forgive me for not spending MORE THAN MY CAR IS WORTH on modifications. I dont give a rats ass. If i want to go fast, I go do it in a car that was made for it.

Quote:

caliper bolt is a 3/8 hex, if your gonna go to AutoZone for stuff, get Duralast rotors, Duralast Gold CMAX pads (ceramic), and duralast ball joints, tierods and the Gabriel strut mounts. Ball joints are a bolt on ordeal. For the mounts, spring compressor, unbolt top mount, mount new one, release spring compressor. Use a wall mounted compressor if you can. Anything else. And someone add or correct this if i'm wrong. Just get those brakes, theyre better quality then the regular golds, even at $50. And the Duralast rotors are 2 year warranty, the 1 year Valucraft warp like nothing. Trust me, I work at AutoZone, some of the stuff is junk, just dont go to cheap.

TY for the info, I know the whole deal with the strut mounts, they just didnt look all that easy to get at.

Quote:


It's a 3/8 hex/allen for the front caliper slides. Take the wheel off, take the 2 slides off the caliper, hammer the rotor off, slide new rotor on, compression brake piston, remove old pads, install new pads, clean and lube the slides and reinstall.


For a tie rod end loosen the jam nut, remove the one nut holding it to the spindle and pop it out of the spindle, unscrew the end screw new end on, retighten jamb nut and nut holding it to the spindle, greese it go straight for an alignment.


For the ball joint, remove the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, drill out the 3 rivets holding it to the control arm, install new one, it comes with bolts instead of rivets, put the bolts in, hook it back up to the spindle, tighten the nut and put a new cotter pin in.


For rear strut mounts there's 2 nuts on the rear strut towers from in the trunk, then 1 bolt from in the bottom of the mount and then 1 big bolt holding the strut to the rear beam. Remove those 4 bolts and its out. Put it in a spring compressor, take the nut off remove the mount put on new mount, tighten nut and reinstall in the car.


I'm call BS on you being a mechanic, If you were a mechanic you would have access to resources to find all this info, not that you need it for something so basic. All of theses items are extremely extremely basic and anyone could figure out how to change them simply by taking the time to look at the car, its all pretty self explanatory.

Look guy, I didnt ask for a step by step. I asked if I was missing anything. Alot of cars have "quirks". The strut mounts I didnt know how to do in this car, as I have never done them. I have a decade experience in the field, and 5 years in the army as a mechanic. I have fixed some @!#$ you couldnt even imagine, including trucks riddled with bullet holes and ripped apart by large explosions.

For christs sake, Im not stupid, I know how to do Tie rod ends, and brakes, and pretty much anything else you want me to do. Rebuilt my first engine at 14, been wrenchin since before I could drive. But think what you want, I wont get all bent out of shape over what some guy on the internet thinks.


2006 Honda Civic EX Sedan AT-Galaxy Grey Metallic Pearl, 37,000 miles,Loaded with everything except Leather and Nav, Tint-5% rear, 20% front, Calipers painted Subaru WR Blue, Ipod Integration, XenonDepot 4300K HID Conversion kit, Debadged, Optima Red-Top, No performance mods because its an auto, and its under warranty.

Joshua Morrison wrote:Look guy, I didnt ask for a step by step

You make the post and bump it and now your actually gonna complain because I explained what you asked in detail?

You got your answer didn't you? So STFU

Joshua Morrison wrote:But think what you want, I wont get all bent out of shape over what some guy on the internet thinks.

You sure about that???? You already sound pretty butt hurt.... you can't go off on a little tangent telling us all how smart you are, and you can fix everything etc.. and then claim your not gonna get bent out of shape LOL

no, im not bent out of shape. I simply asked to make sure I had everything straight. Im kinda mad about the personal attacks, but hey, its the internet. I never said I could fix everything...you did.


2006 Honda Civic EX Sedan AT-Galaxy Grey Metallic Pearl, 37,000 miles,Loaded with everything except Leather and Nav, Tint-5% rear, 20% front, Calipers painted Subaru WR Blue, Ipod Integration, XenonDepot 4300K HID Conversion kit, Debadged, Optima Red-Top, No performance mods because its an auto, and its under warranty.

Rear strut mounts are not that bad to get to... just undo the bolt though the trailing arm, the 2 bolts under the wheel well and the one nut up above the strut tower, and the strut drops out. Then just do your usual spring compressor deal to compress the spring so you can remove the mount. Reverse that for install. Not bad... shouldn't take more than 30 mins a side with air tools.

Good luck.

-Chris-


-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...