Ok so my problem is this. I recently swapped my condensor on my a/c system. Evacuated the system and then recharged to about 45 since the aimbient temp was about 80 or something. Any who I was excited to have a/c after 3 years, but while charging the system it wasnt gettin any colder. Seeing that my clutch on the compressor was not engaging i made a jumper line and connected it to the green power line with the positive battery terminal so the system could fill. I checked my ERLS,HVAC, A/C fuses ( in the cabin and engine compartment), and the clutch relay ( in the engine compartment). All were fine and not blown. Cant figure out why its not getting a 12v source to engage the clutch when i switch on and off the a/c in the cabin. The light comes on when I push the button inside the cabin. I used a test light on all the fuses and all were working correctly. sooo Im stumped
"It's called reading! Top to bottom, left to right... a group of words together is called a sentence. Take Tylenol for any headaches... Midol for any cramps."
How much r134a did you put in?
If you under filled it it will prevent the compressor clutch from kicking on. It's a safetly feature that helps to prevent the compressor from burning up to do low pressure. Also did you replace the receiver/dryer? It contains desiccant that spoil once the A/C system is opened.
A/C work is the one thing that should not be done by backyard wrenchers. It is too finicky and wayyyyyy to easy to screw up your system.
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
im pretty sure i got it filled up enough. used a can i got from o'riellys it was a fairly large can. empited that and my boss has a larger cylinder like the size of a propane tank and guages. soooo pretty sure it got enough lol.
And when i took my condensor off right away i put a new one on. but i guess the dreyer could be bad also cuz the system had a leak in the old condensor. But reguardless even if the dreyer wasnt good, would that be enough to make it not work? because i jumped it to the + terminal on the battery and it blows nice and cold! Just cant get the clutch to stay engaged.
"It's called reading! Top to bottom, left to right... a group of words together is called a sentence. Take Tylenol for any headaches... Midol for any cramps."
cody akers wrote:Ok so my problem is this. I recently swapped my condensor on my a/c system. Evacuated the system and then recharged to about 45 since the aimbient temp was about 80 or something.
45 psi??
IIRC the a/c system equalizes at 80-90 psi fully charged.
And if the a/c system has had a hole in it for three years, you need to replace the accumulator near the firewall. and vacuum the system to get most of the moisture out.
Also you should inject some oil to properly lubricate the system.
funk me. i should just get another cavy in the stable and just say screw a/c in this one lmao. I have a feeling this is gunna be more of a take it to a shop and get butt raped kinda deal. And the a/c system pressurizes at different ambient air temps. so i pressurized it up to what it needed to be for 80 degree weather!
And i think the can of refridgerant was supposed to have oil in it and the r134a. but if i have to go yank a accumulator/ dryer, if once i open up the system and plug the holes on the replacement dryer then take it back same day. vacuum my system and depressurize it and replace the dryer/accumulator would it be ok?
"It's called reading! Top to bottom, left to right... a group of words together is called a sentence. Take Tylenol for any headaches... Midol for any cramps."
you should take it to a professional, that do it at home a/c stuff is crap
and btw PSI is basically just used to see what the compressor is doing and if there's a problem in the system, you don't fill it to a specific PSI, you put in the right amount of refrigerant based on it's weight in grams. For example a 2007 Passat 2.0T takes 600 grams of refrigerant, not a specif PSI.
cody akers wrote:funk me. i should just get another cavy in the stable and just say screw a/c in this one lmao. I have a feeling this is gunna be more of a take it to a shop and get butt raped kinda deal. And the a/c system pressurizes at different ambient air temps. so i pressurized it up to what it needed to be for 80 degree weather!
And i think the can of refridgerant was supposed to have oil in it and the r134a. but if i have to go yank a accumulator/ dryer, if once i open up the system and plug the holes on the replacement dryer then take it back same day. vacuum my system and depressurize it and replace the dryer/accumulator would it be ok?
Here's what you should do:
Take it to a shop, tell them you want to evacuate the a/c out and then bring it back later after you have replaced the accumulator, then bring it back to the shop and have them vacuum the system, add oil and recharge the system to the proper amount in grams/oz.
okay. i have a 97 cavi z24.
i had a shop completely fill it with r134a with oil and dye in it, it blew ice cold for 3 days. then it just stopped.
so i checked all over for leaks. condenser, compressor, accumulator, everywhere i can, all the lines, and found nothing.
any where else i should look.
or should i just drop it off at a shop and tell them to fix it and get raped with prices.
Did you visually look for leaks or did you use an actual sniffer?
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
i used a blacklight and looked for leaks.
Cody your cavi takes .68 KG or 1.5 pounds of refrigerant
Drew Haynes wrote:okay. i have a 97 cavi z24.
i had a shop completely fill it with r134a with oil and dye in it, it blew ice cold for 3 days. then it just stopped.
so i checked all over for leaks. condenser, compressor, accumulator, everywhere i can, all the lines, and found nothing.
any where else i should look.
or should i just drop it off at a shop and tell them to fix it and get raped with prices.
Does the air in the vents smell funny? If so, the evaporator could be leaking. Most likely a rock hit the condenser and put a small hole in it.
Drew Haynes wrote:okay. i have a 97 cavi z24.
i had a shop completely fill it with r134a with oil and dye in it, it blew ice cold for 3 days. then it just stopped.
so i checked all over for leaks. condenser, compressor, accumulator, everywhere i can, all the lines, and found nothing.
any where else i should look.
or should i just drop it off at a shop and tell them to fix it and get raped with prices.
Get raped by prices?
What you meaning paying a shop to fix something you have no @!#$ clue about? You dont think it cost money to keep a shop open and running, they are just there to scam people?
If you are so @!#$ smart fix it yourself, otherwse pay the price of paying someone who actually can fix it and deal with it.
PS dont come to my shop I hate bottom feeders as customers
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
Drew Haynes wrote:i used a blacklight and looked for leaks.
That isnt a good way. If you want to do it by yourself you need to get a sniffer-type leak tester. Take it to a garage and let a professional fix it.
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
yeah i will take it to a shop in the spring if i dont find it myself.
and Cluster...
You are so strong. you can talk trash on an online forum. o good for you. and y would i want to go to your shop anyway.
i just came on here to ask a few questions to determine the leak so that whoever works on my car isnt searching all day looking for a leak. instead i can just have them replace one part and be done with it.
but fine have it your way and search for a freaking day just looking for a leak. then spend the next day installing it.
Drew Haynes wrote:yeah i will take it to a shop in the spring if i dont find it myself.
and Cluster...
You are so strong. you can talk trash on an online forum. o good for you. and y would i want to go to your shop anyway.
i just came on here to ask a few questions to determine the leak so that whoever works on my car isnt searching all day looking for a leak. instead i can just have them replace one part and be done with it.
but fine have it your way and search for a freaking day just looking for a leak. then spend the next day installing it.
All day? I'll have that leak pinpointed within 15 minutes tops of getting it recharged.
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Broke Cluster wrote:
Get raped by prices?
What you meaning paying a shop to fix something you have no @!#$ clue about? You dont think it cost money to keep a shop open and running, they are just there to scam people?
If you are so @!#$ smart fix it yourself, otherwse pay the price of paying someone who actually can fix it and deal with it.
PS dont come to my shop I hate bottom feeders as customers
QFT
What exactly is QFT mean? I perfer to write sentences not jumble letters together
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
Look i dont mind taking it to a shop. I would just rather try and track it down myself or attempt to at least. ( Like how i tried to recharge the system and found my leak in the condensor)
If from there i cant then obviously i will have to take it in. On a personal level i would rather just do away with it, but since i have a kid on the way the woman wants a/c in my car or i cant take my kid with me anywhere when its semi warm out. So what can i expect to pay fro having my system looked over? I know its holding pressure. but if i remember correctly when my relay was grounded out with a test light ( relay in engine bay fuse box) the clutch would kick in and be fine. but i know the relay is good cuz i swapped with with my crank senor relay.....or at least assuming it was good. which makes me wonder if its something with my PCM. The reason i believe this is my temp sensor was acting funny a month or 2 ago, so i just put a brand new one in and it has been acting up again. when i say acting up i mean it will be at running temp and then bottom out to zero or just around when i accelerate. But not as often as it had before. maybe once in a blue moon
"It's called reading! Top to bottom, left to right... a group of words together is called a sentence. Take Tylenol for any headaches... Midol for any cramps."
cody akers wrote:Look i dont mind taking it to a shop. I would just rather try and track it down myself or attempt to at least. ( Like how i tried to recharge the system and found my leak in the condensor)
If from there i cant then obviously i will have to take it in. On a personal level i would rather just do away with it, but since i have a kid on the way the woman wants a/c in my car or i cant take my kid with me anywhere when its semi warm out. So what can i expect to pay fro having my system looked over? I know its holding pressure. but if i remember correctly when my relay was grounded out with a test light ( relay in engine bay fuse box) the clutch would kick in and be fine. but i know the relay is good cuz i swapped with with my crank senor relay.....or at least assuming it was good. which makes me wonder if its something with my PCM. The reason i believe this is my temp sensor was acting funny a month or 2 ago, so i just put a brand new one in and it has been acting up again. when i say acting up i mean it will be at running temp and then bottom out to zero or just around when i accelerate. But not as often as it had before. maybe once in a blue moon
The first thing a shop will do is evacute and rechagre, if the system was charged and it has an eletrical problem, it will cost about $80 to trace it down, if it is a leak someplace, and the pressure is just low, which is why it isnt coming on, it will be the price of the componet, the labor, and the cost of a recharge
- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new
well ill run it to the shop this week and see what they find.....*gulp*
"It's called reading! Top to bottom, left to right... a group of words together is called a sentence. Take Tylenol for any headaches... Midol for any cramps."
When I fixed my A/C, I replaced the compressor, orifice and accumulator then took it to Firestone and let them evacuate it, charge it and leak test for around $100. Total repair cost was under $300. I also replaced all the o-rings. 1.5 years and still blowing at 35 degrees.
2.2 97 Cavalier......the "Crapalier"
