pennzoil link
ok i was walking through wally-world(walmart) and saw this stuff today and
was wouldering how many other people have seen this stuff or used it.

saw an ad for it the other day... I dunno about putting cleansers in with my oil.. lol..

I know i may get a little flamed for this.. but its a slow day at work... All oil is pretty much the same, oil is oil (hold on, let me finish! lol)

Unless you are a racer.. or have a seriously modded motor... ANY brand name oil will be fine provided you change it when you are supposed to.. this is just another snake oil to me.. there is good oil and bad oil and not much in between, its very black and white..

Its like gas stations or anything else.. you need some marketing tool to set you apart from the competition, so you find something that the others dont and market the crap out of it... 99/100 it does absolutely nothing, but if it gets you to buy it... mission accomplished..

Now i dont know for SURE thats what this new oil is... But i would count on it.. lol.. maybe someone else knows a bit more about it..

lol.. yeah... i'll really stand by my statement after reading that site...

"Hyper cleansing technology" or anything along those lines (or just includes the word hyper) is a vague marketing gimmick... Its what they call something imaginary that has no real name... lol

only oil recommended by Ferrari NA... thats the same ploy as those stupid Duracell ads... They only use Duracell because they were sent a truckload of free batteries and they do the job... lol.. its all business..

Ah, my area of expertise. This is a brand new oil. It's attracted quite a bit of attention over on "Bobistheoilguy". It's a tier up from Pennzoil's "Platinum" full syn, which is what I am running now. It is still a Group III (IE Hydrogen Cracked Petroleum based oil) but has quite a bit of extra goodies in it. It is NOT an extended drain filter, but from the starting TBN of 13, it should be good for at least 10,000 mile OCI in most applications.
Molybdenum, Boron, Zinc, Phosphorous are all anti-wear/anti-friction adds. The boron is the most interesting here, it is the first oil I've ever seen that uses this much boron, which is an excellent thing.

Calcium, magnesium, and also boron serves this purpose too, is anti-foaming, and detergent (cleaning) additives, which will help break down sludge, varnish, and other stuff. TBN tells what the total active additives left in the oil are, typical starting for dino, and most syn and blends is about 8-10.


Here is a copy of a Virgin oil analysis for the 5W-20 weight.
Alum 1
Chromium 0
Iron 1
Copper 0
Lead 0
Tin 0
MolyB 50
Nickle 0
Mag 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 433
silicon 3
sodium 1
Calcium 2815
Magnesium 10
Phos 691
Sinc 824
Barium 0

SUS Vis @ 210 52.9
Cst Vis @ 100C 8.14
Fuel 0
Antifreeze 0
Water 0
Insolubles Trace
TBN 13.0

Here are some other popular motor oils.

paul bateman wrote: All oil is pretty much the same, oil is oil (hold on, let me finish! lol)

I let you finish, it didn't dim the fact that........

Sadly, you are ill informed. There are MAJOR differences in oil. You need to educate yourself about this entire topic.

Dave

im ill informed eh? how do you figure?
i've seen the difference in a motor tear down from doing regular oil changes using w/e crap is on sale (maxlife, castrol etc) and one that was neglected.. its night and day..
IF you change your oil regularly, you wont see any sludge or crap in the motor.. its not oil dependent.. its called regular maintenance... I also said provided your not racing (or abusing) your car, or have a heavily modified motor that requires it, its overkill and you wont see any difference other then in your wallet..

But i guess you can argue your point to the guys that run 250k+ on budget dino oil... Because obviously it makes that big a difference in the real-world.. these numbers and test results mean nothing... whats a real world application? is a motor after 100k gonna look better using their oil provided you change the oil every 3k? i'll bet my paycheck you wont... then why waste the time and money?

I never said its gonna hurt your motor.. run whatever oil you think is best... its your car.. If you think its worth the extra money, go nuts.. The op asked what people thought of it.. i answered him...
I may not read up on motor oil all day long, but i know a BS marketing gimmick when i see one.. i did it for a living.. lol.. they added a laundry detergent to some oil.. i have to have it! lol.. I must have sludge since all these commercials tell me i do!!

But.. An entire multi-billion dollar industry replies on people that fall for those same gimmicks.. so theres no fighting it.. Im not here to argue with people, just gave my opinion when asked for it..

Laundry detergent my bum. It's simply the additives in the oil. If you can make a blanket statement like that, you don't know motor oil. I have a couple pictures to show you.

This is my cavalier, when I bought it, and had the VC off for the gasket replacement. It had 125,000 miles on Castrol GTX 5W-30, changed every 3,000 miles.





Here is an Acura Integra fed with Castrol Edge Synthetic for 160k+ miles with 6k mile OCI.


Mazda 2.0L, 125K miles, 7500 mile OCI with Mobil 1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v254/tomklipp/Misc/cams2.jpg

GM 3.4L V6 Dino oil, 4k mile OCI.
http://colt45.ws/coppermine/albums/montana/normal_IMG_0187.JPG

Ford Ranger 2.3L 150,000 miles, 3,000 miles oci, Dino
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss154/travisdean90/Image003.jpg

And tell you what. I'm on a 6,000-7500 mile OCI with Pennzoil Platinum in my car now. When I finish the next oil change, which will be Valvoline Maxlife (Syn blend) for 6k-7500k miles, I will take the cover off and take pictures to see if it is any cleaner.

When it comes to things j-body, you guys all know tons more than me.... But when it comes to Motor oil, ATF, that kind of thing....Don't even try.

david keevil wrote:

paul bateman wrote: All oil is pretty much the same, oil is oil (hold on, let me finish! lol)

I let you finish, it didn't dim the fact that........

Sadly, you are ill informed. There are MAJOR differences in oil. You need to educate yourself about this entire topic.

Dave

If you couldnt tell by tone of my post, let me explain... It was said light heartedly.. I know the differences in oil.. But when the OP is driving a completely stock DD, the choice he makes wont make a difference provided he changes it regularly.. If you disagree, perhaps your the one that needs to educate yourself.. i've seen enough with my own eyes to know what im talking about..

same with the other guy... Nick,,, you're an 18 yr old high school student that likely just got his first car and have no real-world knowledge of what your trying to talk about.. what in gods name makes you think you know better then anyone on here? i did my first oil change before you were born.. You've proven you can copy and paste from that same damn website over and over but not offer up any valid explanation as to what you are posting.. because you likely dont have a clue about how motor oil works in a CAR, not in a lab test.. Do you even know what those numbers mean that you're posting?

You obviously cant tell the difference between transparent oil under the valve cover on a 13 yr old car and oil sludge.. and apparently have never seen that big jug of Borax sitting in the laundry isle.. or the dozens of other cleaners that use Boron as the main component..

But i can see how you would miss all that in an attempt to prove someone wrong, its why most come on here right? Not to help or offer up advice, but to start @!#$.. bravo.. im done here..

paul bateman wrote:
i've seen the difference in a motor tear down from doing regular oil changes using w/e crap is on sale (maxlife, castrol etc) and one that was neglected.. its night and day..

isnt that the same oil you said you were running currently, and what you planned on using your next change?
funny how things like that get missed... lol

ahh.. ok i might have gone a bit overboard... I dont really come on here to argue with people.. But i get irked when someone is taking what i said completely out of context simply to try and prove me wrong.. it serves no useful purpose.. especially when i know im right and being questioned by someone in highschool that knows nothing beyond what he reads online...

When i said all oil is the same.. i meant in terms of what it does in a normal, daily driven economy car (also in good humor i might add)... Oil either does the job or it doesnt... If you stick with a brand name conventional oil and change it every 3k.. You'll find exactly what you found under the valve cover on your car... Oil... its not sludge or deposits.. but just plain ol used oil... google oil sludge if your confused as to what sludge looks like.. i've seen it many times and it aint pretty.. or easy to miss...

But you show the valvetrain on a j-body, Then you go on to post a picture of the cams on a honda.. what one has to do with the other, i have no idea.. totally different motor and oiling system not to mention the countless other differences (since everyones so big on nit picking)

But do you even know the history of these cars you posted links to? im guessing it was all pulled from a website so thats a no i take it... Do you understand all the variables that determine an oils life beyond when it was changed? Everything from the climate, elevation, highway or gridlock, was it towing anything? etc etc... unless you know how the car has been driven and maintained, you can only take someones word.. im not that gullible..

I worked on cars as a kid with my family, then spent years hanging around my buddys shop working on friends cars.. so i've seen plenty of cars and i know exactly how they are driven and taken care of and the oil shows that... I've seen a 200k car that ran on motomaster conventional its entire life and showed no signs of sludge or wear.. I've seen a 2000 Camry with 90k running full synthetic in it that looked 100x worse... it all depends on how you take car of your car, not just what oil you put in it...

But if your one of those guys thats thinks your sunfire needs the same oil Ferrari uses, go nuts man... lol.. But when a motor replacement costs more then your house, its better safe then sorry.. But is some miracle $40 a jug oil going to yield any noticeable difference over a $25 jug of maxlife? no chance... not in the OP's case anyways.. remember the context of the thread..

blah.. i need a premium account so i can edit.. i forgot the most important part...again.. lol

Running synthetic is a good idea over conventional, no doubt.. especially when its only like $10 more then the dino oil (i run maxlife myself)... While i contend that the dino will work just fine as i've seen the proof of it, My argument was about these "super premium" oils that claim to be more then just synthetic oil (isnt that actually the slogan of one of them?)

Like i said.. if you buy your oil for $3 a liter... your asking for trouble.. If you buy name brand anything, your fine... Or buy some mobil 1 full syn, its on sale right now for $34.. you wont find any better then that, its proven, tried and tested... But yet theres always some new oil that claims to be better and does this or that... its all a bogus attempt to rob you of 20% more money...

I could care less what you think or do.. If you dont agree with me, thats your call... If you think im wrong and want to try and prove it... go right ahead... But dont just make BS statements about how i need to educate myself... do it for me or stfu... lol

Paul, not going to argue with you but there are major differences in oil.

Granted, almost any oil with frequent oil changes will work just fine under normal circumstances.

You mention long time working on cars, well I'm in that boat as well, many years in Dealerships and private shops. I worked for BMW when BMW was an oddity niche market with the old 1600's. Mercedes was just gaining speed and FIAT, well I helped chase FIAT out of the USA. I watched Datsun change to Nissan and Renault go then come and then go again.

I've pulled valve covers where you could NOT see the rocker arms. I well remember the days of old before detergent when the wax deposits were scary, even with regular oil changes. Oil came in a Can, yup, you had to piece the tin to open it.

I've seen oil evolve through the decades and I KNOW for a fact from first hand experience that there is indeed a difference.
I've pulled apart synthetic oiled engines for non wear issues and I've pulled apart dino lubricated engines. I can assure you, even with good oil change habits, there IS a difference.

Next you'll be trying to convince me all gasoline is the same !?!? (that's a joke Paul....unless you really think they are, then we've got another discussion)

Dave

Let me add, I use both synthetic and "dino" oil in my vehicles. It depends on if I purchased it new or not. I don't believe switching late to synthetic does any good, the damage is done. I also don't use synthetic immediately upon purchase of a new car. You need some initial wear to seat the rings and such, generally 5000 miles or so before doing so. Synthetic can lubricate so well you have oil use issues on a new engine for it never had a chance to break in.

Also, can't edit in this forum, my previous post should have been that I had to pierce cans of oil to open them with an old fashioned can opener. Heck! I remember soda in tin cans with no pop top!!

Dave

lol... i applaud the good humor!

Quote:

almost any oil with frequent oil changes will work just fine under normal circumstances.

that was really all i was getting at...

I also think comparing different motors with different drivers is kind of like apples and oranges... like i said, i've seen dino oil look much better then synthetic in some situations.. so its kinda of hard to tell outside of a controlled test.. But i would agree, you will generally notice a difference between dino and syn... But my point started as.. would you notice a difference between this new ultra crap or another synthetic? probably not..

I do know the differences in motor oil... My attempt at humor didnt come off the way it was intended... My point was that avoiding crap oil and sticking with a brand name is fine.. sure there are plenty of differences between each but they all serve the same purpose at the end of the day.. and the op has a bone stock car (i checked) so i figured he wasnt looking for a chemistry lesson.. i skipped over details and over generalized things a tad, i'll give you all that.. its prolly my fault..lol..

I worked in marketing for a number of years.. i have learned the tricks advertisers play.. the word "hyper" is actually one of the most used! lol.. It misleads the consumer.. doesnt lie to them, just makes them believe things that prolly arent true... like adding extra detergents to this new oil, its already there to begin with, they just added more and called it "Hyper cleansing!!".. now does using a whole handful of shampoo make your hair cleaner? or laundry cleaner when using twice the amount of soap? thats my main argument against it... Its a marketing ploy, not an advancement in motor oil..

and most cases of sludge end up from contaminants in the oil be it water, coolant etc.. so the oil isnt really at fault for that, granted new oils and especially synthetics provide much better protection against it.. it can happen to anyone running any oil...

I never meant to argue with people saying conventional is better then synthetic or anything like that.. It was simply that i believe this new Pennzoil ultra is a gimmick and wont do any good over a cheaper priced synthetic... perhaps i could have chosen better words tho.. lol

wow nick, when i posted this i was just a little curious about it to see if it was just a gimmic but i guess not. you really know your stuff and now i know a little more too. ive been running pennzoil plat. in my car(03 cavi. eco.) and ive noticed that its been running a lot smoother running sense i started using it and the owner before me changed the oil every 3-4k miles with standard brand name oils. also with trans fluid, and you being the lube expert and all... giggity(family guy reference for those who dont get it) how often and what kind is decent for j-body cars. my brother has an 05 grand prix gtp and hes about to change his with dextron 6 cause thats what everyine one GPONA was tellin him to use. i was just woundering how much better it is over dextron 3 or 4.

well what about royal purple...cause i been running that for sometime...