I'm stumped.
'99 Cavalier 2.2L automatic.
Blower motor quit working in all switch positions back in August. Not a big deal because I seldom drive the car, but it's going to start snowing within the next 30 days and I need this nipped in the bud.
Every fuse having anything to do with HVAC is okay.
The relay is okay: I swapped out the cooling fan relay and the blower motor relay and observed no change in behavior. (Unless both relays are toast...)
I pulled the fan speed selector switch and used a jumper wire to select fan speed. Nothing. The switch may or may not work, but it's not the reason for failure.
The blower motor is fine: I connected it straight to the battery and it danced across my driveway for half a second. Plenty of torque.
According to the schematic in section 12 of my Haynes manual, I should have position #4 if the speed selector resistor goes out. I don't even have position 4.
What did I miss?
Bad ground or power. GM is good at @!#$ty wireing, especialy in out cars. Check and see what you get at the blower and relay.
Fireboy153
Brady Fire Co. - Station 150
Long Live The Sunflower! (yea its not so "cool")
Good lookin out: I didn't check the relay socket for voltage, nor did I check to see if the thick black wire at the selector switch was a good ground.
Thanks!
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Subwoofer Tools
Had the same issue with my girls vert, the ground under the relay under the hood was bad. Check that, I just put it to a diffrent ground, and works fine.
Mike Z A.K.A SNEEZY wrote:Had the same issue with my girls vert, the ground under the relay under the hood was bad. Check that, I just put it to a diffrent ground, and works fine.
Did you remove the relay/fuse box to get to the wire, or is it pretty easy to splice into the wires in the loom underneath the back of the box, by the shock tower?
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Subwoofer Tools
There is a bolt towards the strut tower, and a plastic push clip in the front. Pull those out, and thw whole relay/fuse box will come out. Then on the bottom of the housing, there is another cover held in by 4 clips, pull that off, and you will 100% access to all the wires in that. But, pull the relay and while looking at the scematic (SP?) shoot power to the blower, and make sure it comes on, if it does, then make sure the relay has the power it needs. Basically, if u have a test light, you can check this. See if there are power on two of the wires (one will be hot all times one will only be hot when the system is ON) the other two wires in the box for the relay are ground and the wire that takes the power from the relay to the blower itself. Your going to have to make sure you have power and ground where you need it. It might not be the ground under the block. So some testing will be needed. Also if you have 3 power sources at the relay, obviously somthing isnt right. Since there should only be 2. Like I said, your going to have to test. But if it turns out the relay isnt enguaging since the ground for that is bad, the wire is pretty easy to get to, snip it, and re-mount it to a ground. Just make sure you cover off the other piece so you dont short out anything. Goodluck.
Well, me and my DMM will look at it tomorrow night, it's supposed to rain later.
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Subwoofer Tools
