95 coupe 2.2 if that matters..
Well here's the story, pulling out of my driveway today i turned the wheel almost to the lock and i hear a loud noise at first i described it as a pop but now i can tell it's a metallic click noise. I sat there not moving turning wheel "lock to lock" and as i get near the lock you hear a pretty loud metallic click/pop noise. this happens on both sides and it's the same noise...it really doesn't sound healthy lol
while driving, i haven't been able to drive in a circle at the lock to see what happens, but on normal right turns it makes like a clunk noise maybe twice but I'm not sure which direction it's coming from, maybe even the back...my car is loud and makes all sorts of noises so while driving it's hard to tell what is coming from where
ALSO if this helps, every few bumps i hit, my alignment will change...my car normally pulls to the left a little but every few bumps i hit, it will change and pull to the right, then back to the left
one more thing! it's manual trans...you know when driving around in 1st gear say about 1500-2000rpms, and you left off the gas, it kind of jerks around...well mine clunks around a bit when it's jerking...someone told me that is bad lower control arm bushings
I'm more concerned about the loud clicking/pop noise when i turn both ways to lock and the shifting alignment
Could be your cv axles are bad.Jack it up safely and use jack stands.Check all ball joints buy rocking wheel,all suspension parts ect. and cv axles.
http://www.aa1car.com/library.htm
Well it was raining so it's pretty wet out, i jacked both sides, shoot both wheels, everything seems still with that...I was out with my dad trying again and it seems now Only when i go left to lock Then back toward the right almost to lock, the left side clanks....only things seem to be moving is the tie rods....maybe inner tie rod? what noise do inner tie rods make?
Check the mounting bushings on your rack-n- pinion. I bet you will find out that they are bad or missing...
It could be any of the above, but if you check all of those and they seem alright, the next thing I would check would be the upper strut mounts. They will drive you crazy with the popping and cracking when you turn corners.
Well honestly It's been way too cold to even both getting under my car, my cars alignment shifts from side to side a little bit with bumps and other than that the pop/click noise has only been occurring when i turn the wheel to or very close to lock and turn it back toward straight......other than that, i've been driving it normally and havent heard a thing so i'm gonna let it ride for now and check it when it gets worse.
Some of you might think that's bad but I think of it this way....If I don't hear it driving normal then I'm not gonna bother(atleast not in this weather)
Whenever you get around to checking, it's not hard to check the control arm bushings or the tie rods.
The control arm bushings can be checked visually. Look at the rear of both control arms in the area where a verticle bolt goes up and through. If the bushing is bad, you'll see the rubber torn slightly away from the steel sleeve. If the bushing is wasted, the control arm will be sitting on the sub-frame assembly in the same area with the bushing sticking way out of and above the control arm. The more worn it is, the more likely you'll hear it at lower speeds and when turning the wheel. This doesn't pose a great safety concern right now as everything is contained and can wait until warmer weather. This will cause a shifty alignment as well when severly worn as the control arm will move thus moving the position of the lower ball joint fore and aft.
The tie rods are probably the next easiest to check. Just jack up the vehicle on one side and grab the wheel on the side hjacked up at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions and apply a little pressure as if turning the wheel from side to side by hand. If you have a loose tie rod on that side, you'll feel a little knock when going bak and forthe on the wheel. do the same on both sides to make sure you cover all four tie rods. The bad news here is if you have a bad tie rod, and it is really bad, it can let go at any time and you may lose your steering, cause an accident, and hurt or kill yourself or another innocent person. Tie rods are not something to mess around with.
The next easiest I think would be the upper strut bearings. With the hood open and the car firmly on the ground, bounce the front of the vehicle on one corner almost violently. If the upper strut mount and bearing assembly is bad, then you should hear a knock in the area of the strut tower as the vehicle moves up and down. If this is bad, you may have more time to swap it out than you do the tie rods, but that doesn't mean you won't end up with an unsafe condition should you let it go too long.
If It is none of this, nor any of what the others have posted, there is always the drive it until it breaks method of diagnostics. I've done it a couple times with my own vehicles. However, most of the time, if you go that long, there is usually other stuff that you find broken or in desperate need of replacement that you find when you go to replace the broken component.
One last question, have you made any suspension modifications? I have Eibach 2" lowering springs in the fronty and Eiback 1.5" lowering springs in the back of my cavy, with the stock FE2 struts and mounts, and I get all sorts of popping and knocking when cornering and going over bumps. My speed however pretty much dictates how bad the popping and knocking is.
Some people have brain storms, others light drizzles. And then there are those that have droughts.
JCZ Z24 wrote:Whenever you get around to checking, it's not hard to check the control arm bushings or the tie rods.
The control arm bushings can be checked visually. Look at the rear of both control arms in the area where a verticle bolt goes up and through. If the bushing is bad, you'll see the rubber torn slightly away from the steel sleeve. If the bushing is wasted, the control arm will be sitting on the sub-frame assembly in the same area with the bushing sticking way out of and above the control arm. The more worn it is, the more likely you'll hear it at lower speeds and when turning the wheel. This doesn't pose a great safety concern right now as everything is contained and can wait until warmer weather. This will cause a shifty alignment as well when severly worn as the control arm will move thus moving the position of the lower ball joint fore and aft.
The tie rods are probably the next easiest to check. Just jack up the vehicle on one side and grab the wheel on the side hjacked up at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions and apply a little pressure as if turning the wheel from side to side by hand. If you have a loose tie rod on that side, you'll feel a little knock when going bak and forthe on the wheel. do the same on both sides to make sure you cover all four tie rods. The bad news here is if you have a bad tie rod, and it is really bad, it can let go at any time and you may lose your steering, cause an accident, and hurt or kill yourself or another innocent person. Tie rods are not something to mess around with.
The next easiest I think would be the upper strut bearings. With the hood open and the car firmly on the ground, bounce the front of the vehicle on one corner almost violently. If the upper strut mount and bearing assembly is bad, then you should hear a knock in the area of the strut tower as the vehicle moves up and down. If this is bad, you may have more time to swap it out than you do the tie rods, but that doesn't mean you won't end up with an unsafe condition should you let it go too long.
If It is none of this, nor any of what the others have posted, there is always the drive it until it breaks method of diagnostics. I've done it a couple times with my own vehicles. However, most of the time, if you go that long, there is usually other stuff that you find broken or in desperate need of replacement that you find when you go to replace the broken component.
One last question, have you made any suspension modifications? I have Eibach 2" lowering springs in the fronty and Eiback 1.5" lowering springs in the back of my cavy, with the stock FE2 struts and mounts, and I get all sorts of popping and knocking when cornering and going over bumps. My speed however pretty much dictates how bad the popping and knocking is.
This is awesome thank you! And yes I do have Eibach springs also, I believe they are on stock struts but I am not sure since they came already on the car when i bought it. also i have swap bars in front and back but i'm not sure if those are stock or not....my rear suspension sort of pops like a bad strut sound whenever i hit a big pot hole but this is a different kind of pop only when i turn the wheel. It happens only when i turn the wheel to right lock, BUT the pop happens when i turn it the other way as coming off and away from the lock if you get what i meant.
As for tie rods, when i first heard this, it was at night and i jacked the car up enough for the wheel to leave the ground and i grabbed the wheel both ways and checked for play and there is none....no play when shaking top and bottom, no play shaking side to side
The reason I asked about lowering springs is that with my car in the air, I can grab the springs and rotate them in the mounts after jacking the car up. There is more stretch in the strut than there is in the spring. I believe that every time I extend the suspension, the spring rotates a bit, possibly moving it off the seats. Sometimes the noise is there, sometimes it isn't. Given the current weather in your area, I would be willing ot bet that is what happened with the ice and snow all over the roads. Wait until sprin to check it again, maybe jack the car up and see if you can't re-seat the springs properly in their mounts.
Some people have brain storms, others light drizzles. And then there are those that have droughts.
Hmm yeah, that does seem to make alot of sense....I will definitely check that out when I decide to check, thanks.....but as for now I only hear the noise when making a sharp turn like a U-turn or turning around in a tight area and i rarely do that so I wont worry yet
foudn NOTHING.....looks like its drive till it breaks or gets louder lol ill use the turn the music up fix
Not that this is normal, but my 94 (I know it's a different generation, but also only a year older, and this happened 2 years ago) had the mount point for the Rack come off the firewall. If you have some rust on your car you might want to look into that. Mine is a winter beater, and has enough rust that this is it's last year. anyway, when I was pulling out of a parrellel parking spot, I turned the wheel and heard a very loud pop, and then it was doing that every time i turned and the steering wheel was off center. Took me a while to figure out what was wrong, at first I just saw that the rack was "moving" between the mounting points, then I looked closer and noticed the firewall was torn apart at the mount point nearest the steering column.
Not saying thats your problem, but that was mine and it fit your "noises and simptums" maybe something else to look into.
Yesterday my Power Steering pump died, and took the pulley with it. I'll be replaceing them tomorrow.
Everything Louder than Everything else
I still haven't checked or fixed it, but i just don't make full turns to make the pop noise....I've recently had a sort of rotating clunk noise and feel from under the driver side front wheelish area...I'm thinking axle, the boots are fine but I haven't checked anything else.....the clunk noise/feeling seems to go away at high speeds (45+) and goes away when I'm on the gas
sounds like strut bearings... if you turn the wheel and its making a big clunk or clang at the end of each rotation thats the coil spring re seating itself since the bearings seized. theyre a cheap fix and you should get it done.
