Hey Guys,
I changed my oil around Oct of 2013. I have since put about 200 miles on the oil and driving only short, but spirited driving trips.
Before I left the country in Oct 2014, I prepped the gas tank for long term storage but somehow missed changing my oil (I have gone with Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-30 Synthetic). I am worried at the potential damage that may be happening, although I feel that my engine's (superior condition and low miles - 68K) oil hasn't broken down by driving, instead by sitting! Do you guys think I'll be alright?
I didn't add any oil stabilizers either. The car has been started up every months since and ran for a little while. I have a buddy that going to my storage facility to change the oil very soon. I was looking for an oil with the BEST TBN (total base number). Besides, Amsoil Signature Series and Castrol Edge with Titanium Technology, the other seemed to be the new Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. I bought the Pennzoil. Reviews are that this oil far outperforms Mobil 1 5W-30 (an oil I used for almost the entire life of the car). The higher the TBN the better the oil will withstand oxidation so I figured I'd look for the highest TBN oil to help in long term storage.
Should I add anything to the current oil, like a stabilizer or any other lubricant before changing the oil just to aid in cleansing or total removal of the old oil? I a little worried!
Thanks!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
It'll be totally fine man, just make sure the filter gets changed with the oil.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I would go the opposite, and get a very cheap oil with high zinc content...like a break in oil....but get a good filter.
Drive it for 100-200 miles then change it to what ever you want.
I would try not to beat on it to much. I would drive it like you breaking it in again. I personally like to use a lot of engine braking to re-seat the rings, and clean up those cylinder walls.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I drive my car barely as it sits mostly year round due to resto work.My way is just run the walmart super tech and my filter choice and yes I do crank my car routinely in the garage.I stay far away from any oil additive's as if it is not using oil,or have a mechanical problem just change the oil more often.I just let my car idle for 15 minutes and leave no more than 2 gallons of 93 octane fuel in it.My car also sits on jackstands to not flat spot the tires.Easy
Funny your car has the same oil as mine (quaker state synthetic)
Need to change mine soon....but the car has been driven less than 500 miles since it's last oil change (april 2013) Oddly enough the oil still looks clean as well....
You have to remember how many cars just sit there for years ( with old or never changed) with oil and tend to start up again like nothing happened. My biggest worry is more how much oil has not sank off the walls of the engine. I've short tripped it out here and there, and try to remember to warm it up when I can.
Plan is to throw some more synthetic and a delco filter and not worry too much about it.
Wouldn't even hurt to pick up some of that new (to the US, anyways) Castrol Mangatec oil that sticks to the pistons and stuff.......
http://www.autorentalandsales.com/images/2004Cavalier005.JPG
Thanks guys!
First time I have used Quaker State - either Mobil 1 or Amsoil for the past 52,000 miles. No idea how good it performed because I never drove the car lol
That's true Dave. Gravity does play a part (cylinder walls may be dry and corrosion sets in). However, because it does get started often, I doubt the cylinder walls are too dry. Never heard of this particular Castrol oil however, I have just bought the new Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with Pure Plus Technology made from Natural Gas. I really want to keep the engine free from sludge and oxidation and this oil should do it.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Did some research, here is what I find out and plan on doing so chime in guys.
Lifters, rockers and cylinder walls all lose oil due to gravity over time. Corrosion sets in. There is a term called, "Fogging," which means that you prepare you car for long term storage by removing the valve cover and even head if necessary to coat all the metal parts with a lubricant that defies gravity, thus resulting in a longer, safer lasting engine while stored for indefinite periods of time.
HYPERLUBE, Oil Additive does something very similar. Replace 1 quart of your oil with one quart of this! Now, I used to use Lucas Oil Stabilizer for a little while back in the day (same directions). I don't think Lucas is as good as I thought and doesn't perform this "fogging" effect as Hyperlube does. See link below:
http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/oil-supplement-c6.html
Never used this product and wish I had tried it in my VR6. I am hoping the solution to long terms storage is using an oil with high anti-oxidation properties, cleans the motor very well and hyperlube to help the oil from breaking down, while coating essential engine parts. My car does get started monthly, I am sure there is enough oil in there to coat everything anyway
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:Hey Guys,
I changed my oil around Oct of 2013. I have since put about 200 miles on the oil and driving only short, but spirited driving trips.
Before I left the country in Oct 2014, I prepped the gas tank for long term storage but somehow missed changing my oil (I have gone with Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-30 Synthetic). I am worried at the potential damage that may be happening, although I feel that my engine's (superior condition and low miles - 68K) oil hasn't broken down by driving, instead by sitting! Do you guys think I'll be alright?
I didn't add any oil stabilizers either. The car has been started up every months since and ran for a little while. I have a buddy that going to my storage facility to change the oil very soon. I was looking for an oil with the BEST TBN (total base number). Besides, Amsoil Signature Series and Castrol Edge with Titanium Technology, the other seemed to be the new Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. I bought the Pennzoil. Reviews are that this oil far outperforms Mobil 1 5W-30 (an oil I used for almost the entire life of the car). The higher the TBN the better the oil will withstand oxidation so I figured I'd look for the highest TBN oil to help in long term storage.
Should I add anything to the current oil, like a stabilizer or any other lubricant before changing the oil just to aid in cleansing or total removal of the old oil? I a little worried!
Thanks!
No need to worry 02ecotecimportkiller! There isn’t a need to add any kind of stabilizer or special aftermarket additives when switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (good choice BTW). A good quality detergent motor oil like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is built to hold on to dirt and particles produced by your engine so they can be removed during each oil change (leading to our recommendations to also change your oil at OEM-recommended intervals).
That being said, considering the low amount of miles being put on your vehicle, you might want to consider changing your oil based on the calendar rather than number of miles. Keep in mind, engines don’t really like short trips or short-run start-ups as much as they like highway miles. Short trips don’t allow the engine/oil to get up to proper temperatures long enough to burn off some of the water and other combustion by-products caught by and suspended in the oil. We would recommend changing your oil every three months or so unless/until you start driving the vehicle on a regular basis again. Hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
Gee, if Pennzoil is telling more to change it every three months, I might be in trouble then....
Hoping I can find the time to get changed this weekend or early next week. Get to choose from either more Quaker State synthetic or the Pennzoil Platinum (also with pure plus) in mine.
Got mine around the neighborhood, and warmer her up for a while.....
http://www.autorentalandsales.com/images/2004Cavalier005.JPG
I have mystery oil fogged my engine over the years. Seems to work great.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Thanks for the info Samantha! Every 3 months is not going to be doable (I depend on others to change the oil for me) but I will see what I can do. Calendar year seems to be what manufacturers suggests and I would feel safe as long as I don't go over a year. The reviews on your Ultra Platinium were very good. Looking forward to see how well this oil works in my motor.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Just got the almost 2 year old oil (Quaker State Synthetic) visibly checked and its as brown as it was just out of the bottle (again the oil has about 400 miles on it).
Tomorrow, the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum will be going in along with the Hyperlube - I didn't follow MD ENFORCER's suggestion as I really wanted to put in a good oil as this situation might happen again (plus I cannot drive it for 100 to 200 miles as he suggested).
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
