"The 2.2L motor uses a rocker arm with the same dimensions as the Small Block Chevy, but uses different rocker balls and studs. Your valve springs will handle some additional lift, so what you can do is a rocker arm conversion. Get the ARP-100-7201, set of 12 (10mm X1.5 base, 3/8"X 24 top), $45.39 from Summit Racing and SUM-G6801, 16 rocker arms, 1.6 ratio, $56.95 from Summit. These will give increased lift at the valve, for more torque and a little more HP. This will give you an adjustable rocker arm also for some of the mods listed below. Normally I would reccomend a roller rocker, but if you have to pull the valve cover it would be too obvious that they aren't stock, with the stamped steel rockers the will look very similar to the stock rockers."
I read this from a racing post on this forum. This may sound wierd but this is what I am thinking. I have the head shaved on my 94, thus making the valves closer to the piston. If I went with this theory and did the rocker arm conversion thus keeping the valves open longer, would I be getting to a point at which the piston would actually hit the valve?
Also, would this be a good idea and give me a noticable amount of difference?
This is the point at which doing a mock-up final assembly of the long block (With head gasket of choice) with a piece of clay across the area of the piston face that the valves may come near & running the engine through one cylinder cycling sequence by hand finds out if you need either a thicker gasket or need to notch the pistons for clearance.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
do you have the thread where this came from by chance? you can either post it here or send me a pm, thanks.
Sorry, I don't. But it's easy to do, thread or not. It's an old engine builders trick & all you need is a small piece of clay rolled between your hands and placed across the area of the piston face the valves come closest to (Like the reliefs). If the valve face pushes all the way through, you may need to notch. At that point you want to remove the clay and try it again with a coating of prushian blue on the vavle faces to see if & how the vavles contact the piston. Then notch accordingly. But do it sparingly, as there may be no telling how much thickness the crown of the piston & too much removed may result in a failure by blowout considering the heat they're subjected to.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
oh i know how to clay the block for clearance, what i was referring to was to the OP. I was wondering if he knew where he got that info from because i wanted to read the rest of it. Thanks for the how to on the procedure, ill definitely refer someone to it when they dont know how to do it!
