well, b4 I get flamed, I did read MOST of the sticky, it was just too long, but I am really considering doing to cam swap. My ? is, what else do I need to replace while in there changing the cams? Like, replace old with new, and be done? I know I will have to replace my 3 motor mount bolts, and new gaskets and such, but like, do I need new head bolts? etc... I am doing this alone, with basic hand tools, and a few loaner tools from autozone and a haynes manual. Another ? is, while I am in there, how much of a pain would it be to go ahead and replace the head gasket? Thanks to any responses...
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
first off... you do not need to replace your engine mount bolts unless they are broken. dont need to replace the cam tower gaskets, unless of course they are leaking. you wont even need to take the towers off to get to the cams.
dont need new head bolts, you wont even be taking them out.
you really dont NEED to replace anything if all you want to do is put the cams in. i dont recommend it, but you dont
need to.
if it were me id replace every last item i possibly could. if it were me...
new cam tower gaskets
new arp head studs
new head gasket, have the head hot tanked/cleaned, have valves and valve seats ground, new valve seals.
new secret cams
new lifters
new valve springs
it all depends on how much work you want to do, your budget and your time availability.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, November 12, 2008 6:20 PM
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Hmmm, interesting... Thanks! And what i was referring to about the engine mount bolts, was according to my haynes manual, when you take the 3 bolts that go to the block itself, they have to be replaed, no matter what... Thank you though!
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
ive never in my life replaced those bolts and have never had an issue. but... its not a bad idea either.
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This may seem like a silly ?, but do I have to take off the timing chain housing to get to the cams? And another ? If I do or dont have to take off the timing chain housing, is it necessary to take off the cam shaft housing? Or can I simply, take off the timinch chain cover, remove the chain, gears, and p/s pump, and pull the cam out through the timing chain housing? then just slide the new cams through the timing housing? It seems as if this would be impossible due to the cams are torqued down by the camshaft housing bolts... So, if I cant just slide them through the timing chain housing, do I have to take the timing chain housing off then take off the camshaft housing? And do I have to take the whole cam shaft housing off, or can I pry the camshaft tower cover off from the camshaft housing while the camshaft housing is still attached to the head and get to the cams this way? I know it seems as if I am jumping around, I just want to be fully aware of what is going on b4 I do this. And after doing a thorough search, I have heard alot of people say to use new head bolts due to torque specs. But if I can get by with only taking off the camshaft tower covers, i dont see the need to use new head bolts, as they wont be removed correct? Again, sorry if I confused anyone! Haha!
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
the bare minimum of pulling a cam...
all you gotta do is remove the timing components, ps pump and remove the tower 'cap'. really easy actually. the hardest part is getting all those damn 10mm bolts out of the timing chain housing cover, well not really 'hard' just time consuming...
I would also recommend replacing the water pump while you have everything ripped apart...
I have already replaced the water pump, and thanks for the info... I guess I will dig into it when I get my cams from ebay!
98 z24, few upgrades, nitrous on the way!
Not all eBay vendors selling these cams are the same. I bought a set that looked like it had been in a scrap pile outside for month. They were tossed in a box with crumpled newspaper and arrived (via UPS) with the box smashed and one of the cams (and crumpled paper) sticking four inches out one end. I questioned the seller and he said all they had was a little "surface rust" and that there was nothing wrong with them. I decided not to use them and got another set from someone else. While you're not going to get perfection on used parts, you should at least ask the seller if the cams you're getting are the same ones pictured in the ad, if they have or haven't been protected with an oil coating, or if they have any rust or scoring visible. I also asked (the second vendor I bought from) if he knew any history of/or the specific vehicles they came from, since it's not obvious at first glance that you even have the correct parts until you seriously examine them. I've dealt with a lot of eBay vendors and the good ones definitely rise to the top. Good luck with your cams. - Mark
