I plan on building a turbo 2.2 motor for my car and i was wondering on this i have heard of balancing out the rotating assembly is this a good idea or a waste of money. Thanks for the help
what are you doing in the bottom end, it should be pretty close from the factory. we rebalnce our cranks but we also cut the trigger wheel for the crank sensor off
I don't think going distributed spark is an option for this guy, Bob. If anything, he should try re-balancing after knife-edging the counter-weights for reduced windage. After getting a set of pistons & Eagle H-beam rods, of course. The stock LN2 crank is so durable, you will break your block before you ruin it. Heck... even the stock replacements are so good, that when a friend helped me replace the crank in my truck (contaminated by metal frags from the old timing-chain set pieces being left in the pan) and saw the one I got, he said "Damn, that looks like a Crower crank!". Look-up that name & see what I mean.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Turbo 2.2?
I see a blown engine in someone's future.
i dont use the eagles most of the time, they are way to heavy for my use.
Seems to me the OP is asking about removing balance shafts.....which would not apply to the 2.2, or 2200, but rather the LD-9, and eco's
balancing as in i mean remove weight across the pistons and the rods by taking the lowest weight one and match it to the rest
as for being a t turbo 2.2 im wanting to be diffrent had this planed for while
OK, disregard my previous statement.
Yes, a knife edge and balance of the crank as well as balancing the pistons & rods will be a good investment.
What you're referring to is static balancing, and I wouldn't bother with anything but dynamic balancing.
SHOoff (Tuner Bash Beer God) wrote:Turbo 2.2?
I see a blown engine in someone's future.
Okay, and you're speaking from...?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
If you are planning on adding heavier pistons, such as forged versions, or heavier rods, then it is not a bad investment to pay for a balance. One of the questions the machine shop should ask is what rpm you're going to peak at, and what type of use the engine will see (street, full race, etc). The formula for balancing a rotating assembly calculates balance weight at a specific rpm, so if you're planning to spend all day at 8k you want to tell the guys that. If you're planning to spend most of the time cruising the street and you might wind 'er up to 6500 once in a while, tell 'em. It does make a difference.
You can build your own rod balancing fixture with the help of a machine shop. I tried building different versions of something like this using a paint scale which reads to thousandths of a gram:
But I was very dissappointed with the results. A change in shop temperature changes the length of the rod slightly which can alter the balance reading. Also, friction between the scale and the rod seemed to cause inconsistent readings. And any differences between the height of the big end and the height of the small end changes the mass reading on the scale. I wanted a setup that would provide the same results every time. So I built one like this:
The first balancer image was taken from here:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/RodBalance.html
The second image is obviously a Comp Cams tool. I don't believe they were available when I built mine. You'd need to make an adapter for the small end since the 2.2 pins are smaller, but it gives you one helluva balance when you're done.
-->Slow
Bob Guptill wrote:i dont use the eagles most of the time, they are way to heavy for my use.
You also aren't building turbo motors
However, I believe the stock rods (which are pretty heavy-duty) are good for 400bhp.
John Benham wrote:Yes, a knife edge and balance of the crank as well as balancing the pistons & rods will be a good investment.
Knife-edging the crank on a turbo LN2 build is a little overkill. I doubt he has the ability to do it himself, so the money would be better spent elsewhere.
Slow, that Comp balancer is pretty cool, thanks for adding yet another project to my list.
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
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slowolej wrote:
^I remember seeing & reading about that balancer
years ago... Good to hear from someone who isn't writing it up for a magazine that it works well!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Nickelin Dimer wrote:SHOoff (Tuner Bash Beer God) wrote:Turbo 2.2?
I see a blown engine in someone's future.
Okay, and you're speaking from...?
Speaking from being on this board for years? Unless a lot of money is dumped into that 2.2, once it's boosted it's just a matter of time before it kicks the bucket. How do I know that the OP isn't going to be putting a lot of money into this engine? Because those who have successfully built a boosted 2.2 that continues to run on a daily basis are people who go out and do their own research, including using the search function. Boost/nitrous will kill up a 2.2 engine real quick in about 99% of all cases. Hell, mine even blew up without either.
depends on how much boost is going through it on a daily basis though. if it's a low amount, say, 6 PSI, the full stock bottom end is known to be able to take it and keep going. just depends on if anything has been done to the top end and fuel system.
Quote:
Boost/nitrous will kill up a 2.2 engine real quick in about 99% of all cases.
For a second I thought this was another "gotta spend bunches of $$ or it will die" reply. But you're absolutely right. The 94-97 LN2 does need some extra attention in the fuel department, and no engine will live under boost for long if the timing is ramped up with an N/A advance curve.
-->Slow
