Its a pacesetter knock-off. You get what you paid for right? you pay 100 bucks when its all said and done shipped, for a header that might last you 3-4 years, or 3-4 months....your call.
I went through as many header threads as I could find here and ultimately bought a BBP header from another vendor. It's another Pacesetter knock-off, but it actually seemed decently made with respectable welds and mounting flange finish. I'm going to see if i can get rid of the ball joint and mount a flex coupling, though. That should help reliability, but I haven't found one yet. (I found an stock application aftermarket downpipe for the 2.4 with a flex coupling, but it's pretty expensive just to cut it up and adapt for the header.)
The down side to a header like this isn't going to be the welds or even the ball joint.. its the stainless steel they use is very thin and heats up and makes your car over heat..
^--- LOL...... you're serious aren't you?
How is heat coming off of the exhaust manifold going to make the car overheat? I really want to hear this.
I have a Tsudo knockoff on my Eco from the same vendor (well not sure but same exact ad layout)
And it doesn't make it overheat. Hahaha.
Thin Stainless Steel.. This is an OBX header.. and having a super hot temps under the hood right by where the oil / coolant passes are on the ecotec and having the fuel sending and return lines RIGHT BY the exhaust manifold as well as having a warm air intake sucking nice hot air causes the car to over heat at idling.
TRUST ME im speaking from experience here.
Holy sh*t that's hot.
And he speaks the truth with the heater hoses and fuel lines being that close to the header and causing heat issues. Whether it would create an over heating situation, not sure though.
I had to rewrap my lines with heat proof materials when I installed my Pacesetter years ago. No problems with heat ever.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Youd be better off making one out of sheet metal than buying one of those
I guess it might not help living in Arizona as well..
and yeah heat wrap/ ceramic coating is worth the money.
Header tape does wonders...
Chris Isaacs wrote:Header tape does wonders...
and by wonders you mean it causes premature header failer, heat stress cracks, and shortens the life of you head right?
Header wrap is worthless and will only cause damage to the header in the long run. Just google information about header wrap, even hotrod clubs with ol' rat rods are dropping the wrap and going with coated headers.
EcoCav (DesertTuners) wrote:Chris Isaacs wrote:Header tape does wonders...
and by wonders you mean it causes premature header failer, heat stress cracks, and shortens the life of you head right?
Header wrap is worthless and will only cause damage to the header in the long run. Just google information about header wrap, even hotrod clubs with ol' rat rods are dropping the wrap and going with coated headers.
lets not turn this into an ongoing argument now..
his question about why the ebay stainless steal header was bad has been answered..
and your cars still yellow..
so its all good in the hood..
you're kidding right? ...because the header glows its a pos?
you guys know that ceramic coated headers still glow right?
DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:you're kidding right? ...because the header glows its a pos?
you guys know that ceramic coated headers still glow right?
Im aware they glow.. my headers a pos because its made of thin stainless steel and makes my car overheat.
(btw that picture was taken after i held the throttle at 2000 rpm for just over 20 seconds)
header wrap isnt that bad. theres similar stuff used to sleeve fuel lines and such under hoods of cars everywhere. if your that worried about it, get the wrap tat is held in place with metal zip ties. the ties can be cut, header can dry, be cleaned and repainted if necessary, then re-wrapped.
if and when i get my header, im not sure which route im going to go, but i will probably either paint or wrap it.
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