ok so here is the set up. I got a ln2 motor, the valves rockers are tapping, not sure which ones or ones. Along with this there not much power when you push the gas peddle normally. and I mean not putting it to the floor. any ideas can help for me to look at. if there is anything that anyone says about to look at I will let know if ive already checked it. thank you. please no bs i just want honest help.
Sounds like you might be out of time or your timing chain tensioner is shot. Best case scenario is to take off the valve cover and run the engine. As long as you don't rev it up really high oil will not shoot up but it will give you a good look at the upper valvetrain.
Thank you for the info. I will check that this weekend. Does the motor have to be pulled to change the timing tensioner?
I forgot . What will I need to be looking for after the valve cover is off?
well if you have the valve cover off before you start the engine try to wiggle the rockers up and down. the shouldnt, they probably will side to side, so be carful to make sure what you think might be movement is normal. if that makes sence
horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.
ALSO Check your ignition control module. I had a 2.2 powered S-10 in my shop a while back that sounded like it jumped time but was running exactly like you describe and the ICM was bad.
A bad ICM? Glad to know that now...
Thank-you. I thought it was the timing-chain set first time it died & refused to start (Sounded like the chain jumped) in the driveway one dry day & replaced it. Then it ran fine but after a heavy rain it refused to start again. Not to mention how it seems to run a little unevenly (I hear an occasional light miss at idle). I was about to replace the crank-sensor, but now... Is there anything else that could cause this? Wires & coils can be eliminated since they're new MSD parts.
If your lifters are ticking, don't be surprised they are failing due to oil-starvation or metal fragment contamination. Pre-'98 LN2s lack the orifice in the lifter-galley plug at the front of the block that permits air to bleed-out & prevent lifter noise. Plus, my '94 ticked for the longest because after a idiot mechanic failed to remove the broken remains of the original timing-chain from the pan after replacing it. The oiling system picked them up & since the lifters have oiling priority on the LN2...
Sadly, this made the engine sound like a diesel to everyone who heard it for the first time. It still ran okay, but eventually after tens of thousands miles the lifters just collapsed & it flat-out refused to start. An "under-cover" inspection reveled that the valves were all the same height. I've seen this before and it told me the lifters finally collapsed. Because the lifter bores were probably ruined by the contamination, I ended-up getting the engine replaced. And man... did that cost more than expected (Advice: Get it done locally!).
As for the chain-set... No, you don't need to pull the engine to do it. Although you might find it a lil' cramped trying to replace it in-car, if your tools don't clear.
Oh, and sorry about thread-jacking!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Timing chain is one of those tight but doable jobs. According to the books the oil pan has to come off, but I though I remember reading about a workaround for that?
There is, but it's been a while since I've read it. So...
I can tell you this: The only real differences between the truck-app trim & the FWD car-app trim are just the oil pan, intake & exhaust manifolds and fuel-pressure regulator location. Everything else is the same. Since I've replaced a chain-set on LN2s twice, I can assuredly tell you you don't need to remove the pan.
What you will need is a hex-driver socket to remove the two studs that thread into the underside of the timing-chain cover & pass through the two holes at the front of the pan. They usually have a pair of 6-point lock-nuts threaded on them to secure the pan to the cover, but since you'll be removing the studs there's no need to worry about removing them at all. Once those studs have been removed the cover shall come-away easily, although a light bit of prying or a knock to one side from a mallet to help break it loose might be needed.
I should tell you at this point that the accessory-drive belt-tensioner should be removed first, since in later LN2s it hides one of the cover bolts. This was a source of fustration for me when I did it the second time on a later model, after having once do it on a earlier model & not finding that difficulty.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
ok ive been looking in my book but it doesnt say. my questipon now that if i remove the chain cover will oil dump out on me or will i be ok. I really dont want a face full of oil.
No, you shouldn't see any oil-spill when you pull the cover. Of course, since I did the swap on S-trucks... which have the sump on the opposite end of the engine. Still, I don't think you'll see any.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Have you always had the valve tapping or did it suddenly start with the power loss.... or get a lot louder with the power loss.
Reason I ask is because I had an issue back in the day with my LN2 that went something like that. I was passing a truck and the engine startted to bog real real bad. The engine light started flashing showing me I was having a misfire and then when I got farther up the road I could hear a knocking that went with the speed of the engine.
After getting it home and taking the valve cover off I found the culprit. Apparently one of the nuts for the rocker arms had come loose. This caused the rocker arm to pop off of the pushrod and kinda roll to the side a bit. The knocking sound was when the cam would throw the pushrod up and into the valve cover.
www.gmscf.com
Every thing was tight as far as the bolts go on the lifters. Im going to check the timing tensioner and if that aint it then i will probably end up pulling the motor and tearing it down.
