I have just finished building my 03 ecotec and it has hesitation and blowby. It was build from an 04 block with 20,000miles. it only has 70 miles on the engine since the build so im pretty sure this is the reason for the blowby since the rings have not seated yet. This is the first time all of these parts has been used all together. The engine has not seen boost since it is still being broken in. When idling you can feel air coming out of the breather. When driving at lower speeds you can feel the car cutting out every so often and it has hesitation when accelerating. Occasionally at idle it will drop around 500 RPM and occasionally die but usually rises back up once I come to a complete stop. It used to do a similar idling issue when the car was bone stock but once I had installed the stage II kit it basically stopped completely but now after switching engines to a basically brand new one it has seemed to returned. I have 2 of basically every engine/intake part since I have 2 Eco's one built one stock. My AFR is between 14 and 15 almost all the time, even when it decides to idle at 500 rpm. I will be ordering hptuners with the next few weeks I think if I cant solve it shortly. Someone help asap please. I am planning on Dynoing my car at a car show in a few weeks.
Here is a list of my engine parts
-Wiseco Pistons 8.9:1 CR
-Wiseco Rings gaped for Turbocharged application
-Eagle H-Beam rods
-Felpro Head Gasket
-Supertech 94lb valve springs
-Supertech titanium seats, retainers, and Keepers
-Supertech oversized valves (0.5)
-New valve seals
-Hahn Racecrafts stage V turbo kit (stage II with portfueler with stage V calibration, TurboSmart VeePort BOV, 16G turbo, streetrace intake manifold)
-No Cat
-Custom Manual Timing Chain Tensioner
oh yeah it has a tach adapter (part of the portfueler) I cut and spliced to the pink wire on the coil pack btw
Yeah, I'd give it more time for a proper engine break-in and keep the revs under 4000K... other then that, sounds like it's mostly tuning issues...you've done a LOT in one shot there so there's bound to be lots of things to work out, especially at idle and partial throttle.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
It's gonna take awhile for those rings to seat, as evidence seen in the past with other engines. Anyone who's built an engine will tell you that. Heck... When SBC's first started using chrome-moly rings, they would consume a quart of oil every 1000mi until the break-in period had passed. Then they would last 300,000mi or more with proper maintenance.
Really... 70mi? It'll take at-least 1000mi just to initially break-in any freshly rebuilt engine. And the ones that come off-the-line from the factory these days are already "broken-in" before they're even installed in the car... Hence why you don't hear about needing to baby it during the first 3000mi it sees anymore.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Thanks, Ive been driving around alot today (now at 150miles) and it seems to be getting better. I'm pretty sure it just had low compression but the rings are seating a little more as time is going on. Thanks I was just getting worried that something was wrong with my new engine. BTW 4 of the 8 injectors are the stock ones that have been sitting on a shelf for about 6 months which may be cloged with old gas, any ideas how to clean them out?
Only one method comes to mind: Professional flow-bench testing & ultra-sonic cleaning.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I have a few ultrasonic cleaners at work (hospital) maby ill try it, what should I soak them in while cleaning them?
Umm...I don't think that would work, usually pressurized cleaning fluid is run through the injectors, and then they are balanced and flow tested for proper operation and spray pattern
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Have you check the hanyes manual to see if there is a certain way to break the rings in? I know for a 2.4 it says to accelerate from 30 to 50 mph, then allow car to slow to 30mph with throttle closed. Repeat 10 to 12 times. When I rebuild a 2.4 this really helped with the rings. I'm not saying this is the proper way for a Ecotec.
FU Tuning
The hospital would allow you to use their ultra-sonic cleaner to clean your injectors?
Which hospital is it so I don't go there?
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
^^^ Pretty similar to what John said. Short bursts of acceleration/deceleration on the street. I've always been under the assumption that this is the best method also.
^^^ yup, babying does nothing but hurt the motor.
Luis Marroquin wrote:Check out this link on engine break-in
Yowzah! That's allota reading! No time to read it now, so I'll hafta look at it when the computer is more free.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Nickelin Dimer wrote:Luis Marroquin wrote:Check out this link on engine break-in
Yowzah! That's allota reading! No time to read it now, so I'll hafta look at it when the computer is more free.
here you go, just because im bored!
Quote:
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
did you put the ring end gaps in the proper position before the pistons where put in the cylinder??
horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.
