why not just run a shorter belt and forget the ac pulley altogether?
because most of the time the belt squeals because its routed backwards around the idler pulley (ribs down) and if it doesnt the belt is not a common size in 5 rib so good luck finding one in a pinch.
I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.
Bpow wrote:why not just run a shorter belt and forget the ac pulley altogether?
First - I already run a shorter belt because of my Underdrive Pulley
Second - I prefer to do it right
Well it seems right for me and I've been using the a/c delete pulley delete setup for some time now with no squeals at all.
I never had an issue with getting a belt for it either.
I simply chose from about 3 belts in the size that were a bit smaller in increments that made it easy to choose by fitting them onto the setup.
I really don't see an issue with 'doing it right' when you can eliminate it (the delete pulley) completely.
Oh and I'm running an underdrive crank pulley along with the AEM underdrive alternator pulley with this setup.
No issues and no unusual wear on the belt.
I consider it right in my books.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
z yaaaa wrote:because most of the time the belt squeals because its routed backwards around the idler pulley (ribs down) and if it doesnt the belt is not a common size in 5 rib so good luck finding one in a pinch.
actually its extremely common to find. ive never had an issue finding any of the belts ive used to bypass a/c. every auto parts store that stocks parts will have it.
sUiCiDe wrote:Bpow wrote:why not just run a shorter belt and forget the ac pulley altogether?
First - I already run a shorter belt because of my Underdrive Pulley
Second - I prefer to do it right
how is it wrong? its just a belt to turn ur alternator. ive ran it like that on all my cars so far with no issues. ive drove one of my cars without fender liners for yrs and had no squeels or anything.
this is how it looks when running the belt how i have done it for years
^Yup. I'm running a smaller belt AND an underdrive without AC, just like above^. No squeals, and belts are actually very easy to find. Not to mention cheap as $hit. I think I could buy like 3 of the shortys to 1 of the original stocker.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Sunday, May 17, 2009 5:19 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
i replaced my tensioner pulley with a ribbed wheel from Gates. I still have the box laying around so I can get the part # for anyone that wants it.
Wouldn't hurt to post the PN
Im running the Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley
Anyone have a Belt Part number or Length i can go with?
Don't wanna be running around all day
sUiCiDe wrote:Im running the Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley
Anyone have a Belt Part number or Length i can go with?
Don't wanna be running around all day
well the belt to use with stock alt and crank pulleys would be a 345k5 belt, 345 being the measurement, now compare the difference from a stock belt to the one ur running and that will be the difference from the 345 belt you will need to change for ur pulley setup. idk what the stock size belt is or the one you run now otherwise id tell ya what you need.
I think part # K050460 is the one you use with the UR pulley
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, May 18, 2009 10:32 AM
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi
LG0/LD9 for Life
I am now running the one from the instructions from Unortodox
Gates K050450
Here's the belt I finally ended up with.
Remember that I'm running the RK underdrive crank pulley and the AEM underdrive alternator pulley to make this work.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
lol
got to love the
"Do it the right way" attitude.......
I ran the UR pulley and shorter belt, but can't remember what the part number for it was off the top of my head. I do remember using a "tailer's" tape measure (cloth tape measure) to get the right size belt at one point. For the longest time I ran a 4 rib belt w/o any problems on the drag car.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
forgot to mention that I am running the rsm underdrive pulley with the aem alternator pulley. Dont forget my car is a grand am and may be the reason my belt is a different size then blu's.
I am running a 325K5 with an UD crank pulley, stock slt. pulley and no AC. Works great.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Just found one locally made by Dayco
$20 CAD
What are you guys doing to block off the fittings going back into the car? There are two sizes and I found out they are not a common pipe thread. Was wondering if they are a metric thread or an AN fitting.
"If you aren't shifting, then you certainly aren't driving!"
Ive tried
2 different brands of 325 belts, one in a 5 and one in a 4 rib WONT FIT
327k4 belt, WONT FIT
Tried a 340 and 335 belt both too long
No one stocks a 330 belt in town
Wish i would have ordered said pulley
silvercav02 wrote:What are you guys doing to block off the fittings going back into the car? There are two sizes and I found out they are not a common pipe thread. Was wondering if they are a metric thread or an AN fitting.
I just plugged mine with caps.
I wasn't worried about being specific with thread sizes etc and just capped them off.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
sUiCiDe wrote:Ive tried
2 different brands of 325 belts, one in a 5 and one in a 4 rib WONT FIT
327k4 belt, WONT FIT
Tried a 340 and 335 belt both too long
No one stocks a 330 belt in town
Wish i would have ordered said pulley
mine was a pain in the ass b/c it was so tight at first but eventually I made it work and now that it has been on the car for a while, it has stretched a small amount and it is much easier to take off and put back on.
The HULK himself couldnt have pulled a 325 belt over my system
AC Compressor is back on and i will get the proper pulley
