I did search and found nothing surprisingly.
I am talking just the bolt ons here, not cams, porting or tuning.
Something with a cold air intake, 4-2-1 header, and full exhaust 2.25".
I am broke and can't afford to go to the track nor pay for a speeding ticket for racing to find out.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
When i did my 2.25 inch exhaust and had my aem cai on my car seemed slower then it was stock. Could be just me though, not getting the gains i expected from putting down so much cash
Honestly, every single time I have upgraded my exhaust it felt bogged down when driving off from the exhaust shop.
After resetting the computer, it was a very noticeable gain.
On the intakes I always had the positive off the battery during the install anyways.
I would:
A) check both O2 sensors
B) check fuel filter (needs replaced every 15k miles)
C) use Seafoam (I would use this only once a year)
D) check your ground
The exhaust backpressure changes with the larger piping, and as such the shift points, AFR and whatever else the computer needs to recalculate the changes needs to be reset to relearn.
I hear it will relearn over time, but I do not like doing it that way. To me it seems to take too long that way.
The first time I upgraded the exhaust on one of my cars, I was so upset like I made a bad decision.
I even went back to the shop and said I made a mistake, and they told me to reset the computer.
I was so relieved to hear there was a reason it felt like it had less power.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
Nobody measures 0-60 except magazines
Darkstars wrote:Nobody measures 0-60 except magazines
Thank you! 0-60 is so driver and tire dependent it means nothing.
" To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous. "
guestimating 6-7 seconds if you can drive decent and opening up the exhaust an dor intake moves the power band up high in the rpm range so you wont feel the trqe you once did at take off really.
I wonder why some cars are experiencing such phenomenoms as losing low end with the listed mods.
Honestly, my Sunfire has a lot more off the line than it ever did.
Not sure what to say about the low end loss since I did not experience the same.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
Cold air intake, 4-2-1 header, and full exhaust 2.25" will still be slow, not really worth measuring in my opinion...add cams to that, 2.4l intake manifold and extensive HP tuning and the engine really wakes up bigtime!
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Mike85220 wrote:I wonder why some cars are experiencing such phenomenoms as losing low end with the listed mods.
Honestly, my Sunfire has a lot more off the line than it ever did.
Not sure what to say about the low end loss since I did not experience the same.
What you are expiriancing is a higher peak in the power band. Chances are your HP/TQ figures went up slightly too with it. It is now you will have to wait longer as you rev to reach its new peak level.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mike85220 wrote:The exhaust backpressure changes with the larger piping, and as such the shift points, AFR and whatever else the computer needs to recalculate the changes needs to be reset to relearn.
I hear it will relearn over time, but I do not like doing it that way. To me it seems to take too long that way.
The first time I upgraded the exhaust on one of my cars, I was so upset like I made a bad decision.
I even went back to the shop and said I made a mistake, and they told me to reset the computer.
I was so relieved to hear there was a reason it felt like it had less power.
what you think is helping is actually resetting you LTFT to 0%, or what it is program to be from the factory. it will take the pcm just as long to adjust for the changes whether you reset it or not.
87 Firebird
All stock...........lol.
Quote:
what you think is helping is actually resetting you LTFT to 0%, or what it is program to be from the factory. it will take the pcm just as long to adjust for the changes whether you reset it or not.
Your probably right, but honestly every time a mod is done and I drive off without a reset the car is either bogged down or does not run optimal. In the end, with the reset it runs nice afterwards.
Quote:
Cold air intake, 4-2-1 header, and full exhaust 2.25" will still be slow, not really worth measuring in my opinion...add cams to that, 2.4l intake manifold and extensive HP tuning and the engine really wakes up bigtime!
True, but these mods alone have helped a lot. I have seen the video of a Cavalier vs an RSX type S and the Cavalier won with the mods I have plus cams and tuning. Not sure if he had the intake manifold though. After I heard someone on the CobaltSS.net have their head get damaged from that mod, it worries me. Of course tuning should compensate, but it still gives me the jitters.
Quote:
What you are expiriancing is a higher peak in the power band. Chances are your HP/TQ figures went up slightly too with it. It is now you will have to wait longer as you rev to reach its new peak level.
Believe it or not, everything has perked up. There is always that point you reach in modification for every engine design where you can hit optimal, then pass it whereas it shifts the powerband. My low end is really nice. My mids and high end are equally affected in a positive way. With my luck my next mod will make everything shift upwards.
Honestly I value my low end the most, but definitely can't complain on how the entire rpm band has woken up.
I chose the 4:2:1 header because of the automatic transmission. Every forum I have gone to has commented on how the 4:1 is perfect for high revving, and the automatic can't utilize the design as well. So basically thanks to you guys and several others I am piecing together a very nice grocery getter, not a race car.
If I get cams and a tune, it will be because I have left my current POS job and got a real one, lol!
Seriously though, these Ecotec 2.2s have good potential in NA form. Not like I am going to race anyone, or take on 2001 Trans Ams, but it does make the car a lot easier to navigate through traffic and pass people much quicker. The quicker you can pass someone, the less MPH your going to have to hit in doing so and less chance of getting a ticket IMO.
I rate 0-60 only because I want to be able at the light to pass someone if I need to. Too many times I am in a lane that everyone keeps speeding up and slowing down to block me merging to where I need to which is aggravating.
0-60 really is the way a lot of magazines rate cars and it does not help cars look good that have mostly high end, and I understand that. But for me, since lows and mids are what I personally value, it is important for me to know.
I had a supercharger kit recently and I really wish I could have kept it, but most creditors think paying the principal off for the fifth time over is just not good enough, and wanted their blood money. So as such I sold it, regrettably. Maybe some day I will get another, they are on E-bay like once every two months.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
You talk to much
With your mods your car is still slow. You can want to be fast all you want but guessing (or even knowing) what your 0-60 time is will not make your car any faster from a stop light so no it isn't important for you to know..... in fact it's completely useless to know. 1/4 mile is not just top end 60' time and 1/8th mile times.
A low 16 sec 1/4 car does the 0-60 in (8 sec.)
A mid 15 sec car in the 1/4, (7 sec.)
a high 14 sec car, (6 sec.)
Those times are pure speculation and I don't want to get flame for this. It's only to give the guy an idea.
2003 Ecotec Z24
14.88 @ 93.92 mph
Quote:
You talk to much
You mean "too much".
I said I am not building a race car, just a peppy grocery getter.
I explained why I want extra oomph too in my post.
Quote:
A low 16 sec 1/4 car does the 0-60 in (8 sec.)
A mid 15 sec car in the 1/4, (7 sec.)
a high 14 sec car, (6 sec.)
Thank you for that info.
I don't want to get flame for this You should not have to feel like you will, but I understand the concern, lol.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
Big Dan wrote:A low 16 sec 1/4 car does the 0-60 in (8 sec.)
A mid 15 sec car in the 1/4, (7 sec.)
a high 14 sec car, (6 sec.)
Those times are pure speculation and I don't want to get flame for this. It's only to give the guy an idea.
Speculation indeed, an 8 second 0-60 is pretty quick, probably high 14's ...but again, it's very hard to judge by that, all cars are different, some have slower 0-60's due to traction issues but make it up later in the run
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Honestly, if I get 7.5 seconds for the Sunfire's 0-60, I'd be more than happy.
I do want to get the HP tuners someday soon.
For an automatic with a 2.2, it already exceeded my expectations in stock form.
The Ecotec is a great motor.
My wife's 2003 Ecotec 2.2 liter Sunfire:
* 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler
* 2 1/4 piping to a 2 1/2 inch resonator
* 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter
* 2 1/2 inch down-pipe
* a match ported 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header
* an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition
* 8 gauge ground wire kit
* Toyz front strut brace
* Vibrant rear strut brace
* and Russell stainless steel brake lines all around.
Mike85220 wrote:The first time I upgraded the exhaust on one of my cars, I was so upset like I made a bad decision.
I even went back to the shop and said I made a mistake, and they told me to reset the computer.
I was so relieved to hear there was a reason it felt like it had less power.
so basically what your saying is you felt a difference when you reset the computer after the mods?
i have an auto 2.2 ohv with a short ram and a fart can on it. think i can get anything out of that? because stock the car is pretty slow and it sucks trying to pass some idiot on the highway when your car doesn't pick up the way you want it to.
You need a full exhaust to get any benefit, header, 2.25" pipe, cat and muffler... just a fart can stuck on stock exhaust might free up a hp or two. Headwork will make a nice difference on that engine, ported and polished head, oversize valves and lighter/less friction/higher ratio roller rockers or a camshaft.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
if i was going to do a full exhaust i would just do no cat at all probably. how much would a port and polish cost about ?
If you don't have any emissons testing in your area then I suppose you could go catless, you won't gain much more power and your exhaust will sound crappy..not to mention car might not run as well as it's twin O2 sensor system (pre and after cat ) will be thrown off and give a CEL...there's ways around that though but I still think you are better off just getting a highflow cat that matches your exhaust diameter.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
