OK guys here it is. anyone familiar with the level zero mount probably already knows about the problem with the mount bushings failing. and by failing i mean like this.....
the mount pictured is only 5 months old and has NEVER been driven, thats right, it has simply been sitting that long and already looks like this.
and when taken apart the busings look like this
as you can see, not only do they not last long but they cause sag, and play in the mount, leading to lost power and possibly mount failer later on.
so heres the simple fix .
go to auto zone ( or the like) and pick up a set of universal polyurethane endlink bushings. they are about 12 bucks a set.
these bushings will have a flat side and a rounded edge side with an inner lip...like this.
now simply take a sharp knife and cut that lip off flush with the rest of it.
now support your engine and remove the top plate from the lzm mount.
now remove ALL the old black rubber bushings and feel free to use them as paper weights.
take your new poly bushings and install the first set flat side down,rounded edge side up, like this.....
now place the top plate back on and insert the next set of polybushings on top of it...this time rounded edge side DOWN and flat side up,
then of course the washers and nuts.
finished product looks like this...
just got finished doing this to Baggednine7's car and he drove it away..it holds the engine tight, with very little movement from what i can tell and im willing to bet
these bushings will last MUCH longer than the rubber ones it came with, which will be very apparent when you take yours off. the bushings it comes with are pretty soft to the touch.
well i hope this helps some of you guys out. currently all i know of are these RED bushings...so if anyone knows of the universal endlink POLY bushings in any other color plz post it up. thanks, and happy modding !!
hahahahaha that is awesome.
good job, man.
Stand in the corner and SCREAM with me!!!!
seeing that pic makes me wonder...
i dont like how the bolt doesnt go through all of the nut. you either need to have the top bushings machined in half (or cut them) or get aset of longer bolts....
and another thing... you could use the round edge/tapered washers for the sway bars on the top so it looks better too.. just a thought.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, December 20, 2009 6:33 PM
Stand in the corner and SCREAM with me!!!!
if you want to use the sway bar bushings you will need to drill them out, as they will not fit over the stud on the mount.
and before anyone starts saying it, this pic was taken before it tightened down. the nuts eventually went flush with the stud.
tightened.. or OVER tightened?
in the sway bar instructions is specifically states 'do not over tighten'
Stand in the corner and SCREAM with me!!!!
Yup, had that though when I first heard about it and now am seeing it in front of me.
Good to see then and confirms my genius status.
I'm still worried about the warping of the top piece even with the poly bushings.
I might give this a go though sometime in the near future.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
^^^^ just have a STEEL piece the same shape as the upper mount made but maybe 1/8th inch thick to go underneath it.
fasten it to the upper piece some how, get longer bolts and adjust the bushing size accordingly. done.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, December 20, 2009 6:47 PM
Stand in the corner and SCREAM with me!!!!
also should have a thicker washer between the bushing and nut for strength
I believe this was my original idea
Glad to see it works for ya though. I may give it a shot since I have some of those bushings sitting around and would like to see how the vibes compare to the solid bushings. For the top bushings does that lip on the bushing itself fit down into the dips in the top plate? Looks like it may, which would keep from having to trim the top bushings and provide a little extra support.
no......the lip does NOT fit in the hole..the hole on the top is the EXACT same size as the outer diameter of the stud. however....i believe a BETTER method to this if you want to try it...is to drill out the holes
on the top plate to match the outter diameter of the lip on the bushings..then install the bushings in the same manner so that both lips go INTO the top plate..this should prevent any bolt to plate contact.
get what im saying?
