Well I am going to be ordering my parts for my motor build soon and need a little insight regarding my valve choices. I am kinda up in the air if I am going to go with a stock sized valve for go 1mm oversized. I not sure if the benefits would be worth doing it or not, so I figured I would ask around here cause I know many have built engines or are building them now or in the future. My goals are for around 300whp and am not sure if I should go 1mm over or just keep the stock size. I know TTR sells stock sized racing valves and am wondering if they would do the trick. I'm planning on running a TO4E @ this time and don't really care how much boost I run, I just want to reach 300whp. If someone can chime in and help me out I would appreciate it. Just FYI I am planning on running wiseco .020" over, 9:1 CR, port and polishing the head and running the secret cams. Not sure if there is even a noticable difference between the OEM valves or the stock sized racing valves.
I would run regular sized valves. I have heard running oversized valves makes it hard to un-shroud the exhaust valves and can actually somewhat hurt exhaust flow. I don't think they are needed, we are making 440 hp with std sized valves...
wicked..thats what I needed to know. Would it be of any benefit to run these over stock valves?
"Turbo Tech Racing's custom racing valve are made from stainless steel. They are swirled polished to give you the best flow possible. Standard 6mm stem. Will work with stock valve train. Great for Nitrous and forced induction engines. Complete set of 16 valves."
there is a TON of difference between the stock valves and the sivalves.com stainless steel 'racing' valves.
they are lighter, have less of a 'dish' in the head... come swirl polished AND are all around made of a better material.
i recommend getting them for sure. you will not need the oversized valves if you only want 300whp. the biggest mod you need to do to get there right now is swap those puny secret cams out for "the real deal" HO cams.
Trailer Queen corvette wanna-be with 40 coats of wax and powdercoating that soaks in.
I have a feeling the car will have to rev higher to make the power. Yeah it will probably make more whp overall but it is still my car I drive to work everyday in the summer and what to have good street power as well as something that will run well at the track. Right now my car has peak hp at 5500-6000 rpm and want to keep it in that range. I'll be able to make 300whp with the secret cams anyways.
PS - Z yaaaa I am probably gonna be getting that intake cam from you soon.
You want 300whp, then why build a motor?
FU Tuning
reliability?
Trailer Queen corvette wanna-be with 40 coats of wax and powdercoating that soaks in.
z yaaaa wrote:reliability?
SO in that comment you admit cams, or "HO cams" are not needed for 300whp.
FU Tuning
i got the 1mm oversized stainless valves from Karo at Car Customs... the same valves he used on his 250 WHP N/A build
i'll be running the .430 lift Crane Cams HO Cams.. and eventually will have a LO Intake and HO (.410 lift) exhaust cams for sale with housings soon
Too Whiney wrote:z yaaaa wrote:reliability?
SO in that comment you admit cams, or "HO cams" are not needed for 300whp.
um... its obvious you dont need HO cams to get to 300whp. david has done it, gary voyles, mike karas, the list goes on.
the trick is getting there without a whole load of boost. thats what i want.
Trailer Queen corvette wanna-be with 40 coats of wax and powdercoating that soaks in.
exactly...thats what I was originally thinking...I only wanted to have so much boost (a relatively low boost setup) but realized its much cheaper to put a different spring in the wastegate to run more boost. Someday I may change things to run less boost and more whp but for now its probably a better option for me to run more boost and less mods. So thats the route I'm going, not what I wanted but life has put me in a postion to have less money kicking around and therefore I need to make sacrifices (at least I own a house now and not renting). Anyways, I think a 300whp cavalier will work not too shabby (quite a bit better than my 190whp I'm running now). Anyways, thanks for the insight guys. I'll PM you soon Z yaaaa.
well see for me, ive got a TINY turbo so i need all the help i can get to get to my goal of 300whp. maybe some day i will try for 500 but it wont be on the white car.
ill probably need to squeeze 18-20 psi out of this little thing to notice any power LOL
Trailer Queen corvette wanna-be with 40 coats of wax and powdercoating that soaks in.
What size turbo does that setup use Brad?
Im also listening to thjis thread as I need valves then my top end will be about comlete. I think Im gona go with stock sized.
I think am gonna get all my stuff from TTR but they don't have ARP studs so I'll have to find them somewhere else. I think I found a turbo (good for 400hp) and an intercooler so things are starting to look up
I can't want till its done. I hope I can run low 13's next summer. I'm just gonna go with the stock sized racing valves, it will do all I need.
carcustoms has the ARP products. the head studs arent really a 'KIT' persay.. karo actually puts it together as a 'kit'. but the parts come from various engines. the main studs are actually a 'kit'.
Trailer Queen corvette wanna-be with 40 coats of wax and powdercoating that soaks in.
z yaaaa wrote:carcustoms has the ARP products. the head studs arent really a 'KIT' persay.. karo actually puts it together as a 'kit'. but the parts come from various engines. the main studs are actually a 'kit'.
i got virtually everything from Car Customs...
I am coming for you Jollymore... just wait for the spring
watch out!!!
and I vote for stock size valves
p.s. 1.6L of terror. 2 litre pepsi bottles got nothing on me. vrooooooom pshhh ]:->
