Hey,
Got more mods and bigger injectors. I want to replace my plugs as they are fouling up due to running rich. I am at max stock injector load. A retune is coming up once mods installed. As the subject post implies, should I be using a step colder spark plug having more than 60+ crank hp than stock? If so what do you guys recommend?
Thanks!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
John,
You are supercharged so im assuming u are using colder plugs. Can u tell me why it wouldn't be necessary for me?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:John,
You are supercharged so im assuming u are using colder plugs. Can u tell me why it wouldn't be necessary for me?
Yes I'm running 1 stage colder plug.
Running NA I do not see you creating enough heat to warrant it. Also on the Eco if I recall correct GM used the stock heat range plugs on the supercharger kit.
FU Tuning
John is right on the eco m62 kit you use stock plugs, just close the gap.
Listening
I'm running N/A tune as well
When should you be running colder plugs? And/Or closer gap plugs? And why? Is there a FAQ on colder or close gap plugs?
Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *
Are you saying that on the M62 eco SC kit they stock plugs so there is no need for me to use a step colder plug? I wonder why they went with stock plugs, especially when compression would change with more air and fuel.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:Are you saying that on the M62 eco SC kit they stock plugs so there is no need for me to use a step colder plug? I wonder why they went with stock plugs, especially when compression would change with more air and fuel.
Yes the Eco charger kit uses the factory plugs. I think this is also because of the Eco's resistence to knock.
Still you are not creating enough heat to warrant colder plugs.
FU Tuning
I will be running colder plugs in my car this year NA, however it will be near 11.5 CR. Not sure if they are needed or not, but I figure it will help pull some heat out and allow me more room to tune on 91 pump.
I'm don't think it would be nessasary on a bolt on set-up, I have 169whp on stock ACDelco plugs at the factory gap with no issues.
I am curious as to your mods to hit 180-190whp, I don't wanna be a dick but I think those numbers might be a bit on the high side of realistic.
I was tuned at 174 Whp but my plugs were shot and I had a lot of leaks from header and exhaust. Brand new header in and waiting on custom 2.5 inch exhaust with magnaflow muffler to arrive. Open header sounds mean lol. My tuner played it safe due to max injector load so I am currently at 166 Whp. There was more power up top for sure but again i would have been at 100 percent duty cycle and still would not have squeezed all or remaing whp. I have new lsj injectors to install. Maybe 10 whp was left to attain. I think 180 whp is feasible. You are not being a dick and understand your question. I will post up my dyno in a few weeks. If I don't hit 180 ill be very close. Ill re dyno once flywheel and clutch is in.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, April 12, 2011 2:36 PM
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
well if u hit 174whp please add urself to the WHP record thread. you will be high up on the ecotec list.
Really? Cool
. I definitley will. I have posted up my DYNO of 166 whp a year ago or so. So, you know I have that much right now. Again, 174 was unsafe. Looking forward to high 170's or low 180's when I get re-tuned here soon.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
The only way to tell if you're needing a colder or hotter plug is to 'read' the plugs after a full throttle run.
Generally you'll want to do a full throttle run in your vehicle from a dig up to redline in all gears. Once you top out in third gear at redline, immediately shut off the engine with no deceleration on the plugs for obvious reasons. You're not wanting to skew your plug readings because of the usually lean mixing of the a/f ratios on the deceleration.
Once you slow to a stop, pull the plugs, and read the ground electrode on the plug for your temperature reading.
You should have three color bands on the ground electrode which will identify your heat of the plug for what you're running.
Proper heat range will show your first color band going from blue to orange or so on the middle of the elbow of the ground electrode with it turning white to the tip. This would be the properly tuned setup for heat range and a/f mixture.
Having the blue/ orange go higher onto the tip will show cold plug and lower on the ground electrode toward the base of the plug would indicate hotter plug or lean mixture.
Hope this explains it to some degree.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
i run 1 stage colder plugs na...but i also run 12:1 compression...without a raise in compression na personally i wouldnt see a need to change plugs
Misnblu... Interesting explanation. I will try it out. I thought any kind of additional fuel and air in combination with some or a lot of engine internal work not including pistons and rods, changes compression? Scott, I see you got mad internals done and for sure your compression has changed obviously. Can't compression change with just cams?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Dynamic compression ratio can change.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
