Are there any good write ups or resources for rebuilding a 2.2 ecotec? The shops around me are retarded so im just going to build the engine myself. The usual eagle rod/8.9:1 wiseco piston setup.
This will be my first engine build ever.
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You can download the GMPP build book, just google it and you should find tons of recourses to grab a PDF of it. The build book was written with the LSJ in mind, but basically same process/idea. It'll at least give you a starting point.
As for things like torque specs, I use the GM shop manuals, can be found cheap on eBay (you wanna look for the orange cover books, theyre the official GM books).
If you're rebuilding, I'd still have a shop check things over, make sure there is no warping that you'd need to plane surfaces, make sure cylinders aren't out of round, etc.
Yeah, definitely. Im getting the block machined, of course. Ill have them check everything while they do that. I just plan on assembling everything...hopefully. Give me an excuse to buy tools without the wife getting mad....ish
"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."
I'm with EVILution grab some gm factory manuals off ebay. They are well worth it .
Ya or the ECO build book, use it as a reference
Also, when you get as far as sourcing parts, Rock Auto is great for oem parts that you replace (if you need to). When I rebuilt, I stuck with an oem style valve stem seals, whole Fel-pro set was like $15 from them. I also threw in the revised timing chain tensioner while I had things apart, and again they had the best price, like $40-45. Also best price on all the random torque to yield bolts (cam and crank pulley bolts, etc).
Do all of those need to be replaced when the engine is disassembled?
"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."
Torque to Yield bolts need to be replaced every time they are removed... they are literally single use bolts...
I'd always replace the Timing chain Tensioner if it hasn't been done in a while... Better safe than sorry...
Would the Haynes or Chilton manual list all the bolts/studs that need to be replaced when re-assembling the engine?
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Senorguitar wrote:Would the Haynes or Chilton manual list all the bolts/studs that need to be replaced when re-assembling the engine?
Sort of, lol. I think the Haynes manual lists the TTY bolts, but not positive. And I've noticed different torque specs between the Haynes and GM manual. There is MUCH more info in the GM book, considering it will be for just the year and model of your motor and trans, where the Haynes and chilton are covering all years/motors and have a more condensed set of info.
The GM books break everything down to literally ever last bolt, stud, and wire in the car.
Right, this is why I suggested it lol.
I checked out that ALLDATADYI.COM website. Pretty badass. I bet the GM books would be better but this was only $25.
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Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:Torque to Yield bolts need to be replaced every time they are removed... they are literally single use bolts...
yes and no. Should they be used only once, yes. Have I re-used them more than once, yes. did they fail, no they actually made 300+ and MANY 12 second passes.
Now this is not saying dont replace them. I didnt and they worked fine. But I just placed an order last week to replace them since the head is off the car and crank pulley will have to come off.
I get my stuff from crate engine depot. He helps me out on all the parts I need.
Do you have to remove the crank pully and crankshaft to rebuild an eco? Figure it would make it easier if I didnt have to.
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Senorguitar wrote:Do you have to remove the crank pully and crankshaft to rebuild an eco? Figure it would make it easier if I didnt have to.
i would... With the motor out of the car, it isn't that big of a deal. The crank pully itself needs to come off, since you'll have to pull that to get the timing chain.
In the LD9 world. we lighten and balance our cranks... I'm not sure what all is commonly done to the eco crank.
Yeah, right when I posted that i felt like a retard. Need to get the front cover off to seperate the cylinder block from the lower half.
Any special tools needed for this besides a pulley puller, torque wrench, angle wrench adapter?
"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."
Pulley should slide off. No puller needed.
Even better!
"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."
DOUBLE POST WIN! Do you guys get your block machined with the lower half still on or taken off? That would be great if I only had to remove the head and oil pan.
"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."
