What type of gains am I looking at getting with a 2.2 OHV cavalier with headers and 2 1/4 back with high flow cat. Fender cold air intake, 57.5mm throttle body. And want it to run 93 octane.
It be awesome if some one had some dyno sheets.
With stock head bolts you shoudl yield 499.999999 horsepowa! lol.
Seriuosly though, you would get minimal gains would be surprised to see 25 - 30 hp.
I would honestly say 8-15whp, if everything was spot on...
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
I'm not looking for a tun of HP out of it. I really want to alter the rev limiter and speed limiter. And at the same time do the HP. I just wanted to see what o should be expecting for HP gains.
you have no need to change the rev limiter without bigger cams, and major supporting mods.
you have no need to change the speed limiter unless you need to go above 107 in the quarter mile. Without major mods (including some form of b00st), you won't ever need to.
Tuning related questions should be posted in the tuning forum. If you plan to start asking HP Tuners related questions, you should post them there.
I need/ want to race on the track. I'm just tired of the speed governor kicking in when I'm racing and my buddy's passing me.
you shouldn't pull the governor for street racing... (you shouldn't street race... but i digress), you will open your self up for major legal issues, because on top of racing and reckless driving, they can add substantial charges on you for tampering with your car. Its not worth it...
With that said... The stock J Suspension and braking system is scary at 80 Mph... i wouldn't push it past 107... hell, i wouldn't push my car past 107, even with my rear disk brake conversion and Z24 suspension.
My governor is set to 120, so that i can do a full gear 4 dyno pull up to 7500 - 8000 RPM with my cams... My car very seldom goes above 75, and my trap speeds on the track are in the 90s
Well not to speak for the OP but he probably wants to lower his rev limiter. On my 2200 with a 4t40e transmission top of second gear goes way past the power band. Second gear shifts at 6,000 RPM on my car. If I remember correctly stock valvetrains on the 2200 start to float around 5,700 and a stock 2200 makes max power around 5,300RPM and hits a wall @ 5,600. SSSOOO in the quarter mile the last few tenths of a second are spent loosing power(atleast thats how my car is).
Can't wait till I get HPT and change the shift points.
I can attest to that. Mine makes max power just a hair over 5300 and max torque from 4650 to about 4800, after that its a pretty quick drop off.
When I have my foot to the floor it shifts into 2nd and I still feel it pulling. Mayne I don't need to change the rev limiter but just the shift points and firmness. Also how do u guys add pictures to your post?
These guys that are breaking 90 mph in the 1/4 mile probably either have a quad4 or ld9. I do not know many2.2's that break 80 unless boosted. but i could be wrong.
See if I do what I want to do to the car I wouldnt be surprised if I break 100, I want to do a full built head. Cut it down for more compression, all the other crap. Then push a wet 75 shot.
Current mods;
Headers to 2 1/4 all the way back with high flow cat, fender intake,
Mods in the work;
Built head
Bored throttle body
Tune
Nitrous
Not to mention, if you are only breaking 100, you still don't need the limiter removed.....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
I think that it is funny that he posted about stock head bolts, nitrous and boost already..... Sounds like he is jumping all over the place with what he wants to do really..
With the money you would spend to build this motor you'd be better off swapping it out for a 3.4. Or just buy an something like a vega and stick a v8 in it. And run all day.
I remember my first posts, I'm sure many of you remember your's. Give the kid a break. Seems to me like he got a job at a machine shop and it's rubbing off on him. Sadly he chose to mod a 2.2 ohv.
I'm going to have to agree with the other guys tho, changing your rev is pointless unless you have the head work to support it. Head work will help your over all power struggle but putting a turbo on your car for about the same cost will do a lot more.
On my camaro I was floating valves at 5500rpms, killing my quarter, I got new heads, bored, valve job, rockers, springs, solid cam setup, ran better, 7000rpm redline but for the cash, I could have done something else.
Ended up selling it all for a 383 stroker setup and a blower, lol, but that is a different story...
RaGiN Z (the fake 05) wrote:I remember my first posts, I'm sure many of you remember your's. Give the kid a break. Seems to me like he got a job at a machine shop and it's rubbing off on him. Sadly he chose to mod a 2.2 ohv.
I'm going to have to agree with the other guys tho, changing your rev is pointless unless you have the head work to support it. Head work will help your over all power struggle but putting a turbo on your car for about the same cost will do a lot more.
On my camaro I was floating valves at 5500rpms, killing my quarter, I got new heads, bored, valve job, rockers, springs, solid cam setup, ran better, 7000rpm redline but for the cash, I could have done something else.
Ended up selling it all for a 383 stroker setup and a blower, lol, but that is a different story...
I chose a push rod because it's such a reliable engine. Its all about wha your minds set to.
RaGiN Z (the fake 05) wrote:Head work will help your over all power struggle but putting a turbo on your car for about the same cost will do a lot more.
Headwork + boost would be the better solution. If you are forcing more air in to the engine, you'd ideally would like to increase flow across the engine. Sure you can slap a turbo on a motor, but if you want it to last longer, and perform to its maximum potential, you need to build the motor.
Ryan Levesque wrote:I chose a push rod because it's such a reliable engine. Its all about wha your minds set to.
The LN2 is no more, no less reliable than any other J-engine. Its all about how they are maintained. The LN2 is also known for excessive valvetrain noise, and epidermises the acronym "CHeap
Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time -- CHEVROLET"
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, March 09, 2012 8:33 PM
What year is your car and have you done any mods yet? Also do you need help with a tune?
I'm pretty sure this information is in his profile...
Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:The LN2 is no more, no less reliable than any other J-engine. Its all about how they are maintained. The LN2 is also known for excessive valvetrain noise, and epidermises the acronym "CHeap Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time -- CHEVROLET"
Actually the LN2 has proven to be the most reliable as far as mileage goes. The Eco has good reviews but it hasn't been around for decades like the LN2. Of course it's all about maintenance but the LN2 can take a lot more abuse than the LD9, it's more infamous for being slow than spinning the #3 rod bearing lol.
On topic, I wouldn't go past a 50 shot for what you're trying to do. Your most cost effective option is a turbo setup pushing around 10psi but I'd hate for you to try to wrap your head around everything needed for a boost setup. And you've only got one header, just like me lol
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, April 01, 2012 3:37 PM
I have always considered the LN2 to be the most reliable with little maintance.
I love the LD9, and have had a few of them, and have one with 136k on it. I also take care of it.
I have a LN2 with over 200k on it (most of those miles are not from me). Great car. I replace the things that need replaced, but I do not change the oil exactly at 3k, gone as far as 8k on a oil change. Have ran it down on oil to where it does not read on the dip stick.
My point is I can abuse it in lack of care or maintance and it still runs.
My LD9 I can abuse in other ways that the LN2 will not take (power, fun, high revs etc..).
FU Tuning
I know before I got mine, the maintenance was lacking. When I first got it home I checked the oil and had to scrap it off the dip stick it was so bad. Still runs great with no problems and its pushing 278k now. And, the op hasn't filled out anything one their profile other than the year (2000) the fact its an auto (3 speed or 4? who knows) and that its a red coupe. Kinda lacking info wise. And I know of 2 eco J's that have had the motors blow in them for some unknown reason. Now if only the LN2 was more powerful from factory.
