I have read on rons set up on quad4fourms and saw on MD web site that he is in development of one as well. But there is a common issue for me with both kits. You cant use eather for a 95^ car with the side top mount. Has anybody made a kit, or is anybody flirting with the idea of building one for a side mount car 95^ ? I know of two different guys with cnc equipment and have been toying with the idea of droping a set of stock gears off and saying hey, build me a set of gears that come to this diamiter. Out of aluminum, such and such width with a non agressive tooth for a timing belt. Make the cam gears adjustible, and of course everything as light as possable. Just been curious on anything i can do to take off rotational mass. Plus this would make changing and maintanace super easy. Just throwing things out there i know its nothing "new" but i know i would love to have my engine belt drivin. Im sure there are other people out there who are fond of the idea. And of course adress the oil flow and a electric pump or if the pump gear could be removed and one built for belt drive as well. Like i said just tossing ideas around.


I Love My J ♡

Ron and I are jointly designing one. The main issue with all the ones I have seen...including the original GM ones is that they use the "front" engine mount to mount all the tensioner hardware. I think we can modify a stock 2.3 or 2.4 mount and bolt the plate assembly behind it, but we haven't finished the tensioner(s) design yet to test fit the front mount. The crank pulley sits at the stock depth so everything should clear the frame without an issue.

The gear tooth profile for a belt is a lot more complex than most machine shops can do. You need to talk to a gear cutting shop that specializes in cutting gear teeth. We tried to go that route....your not going to like the price...at all. Also cutting teeth that look correct will eat the belt. That is what GM did, and the cam gears will not allow full belt wrap since the backlash on the GM gears are ever so slightly off.

Everyone with a belt driven setup is running an external water pump. One guy is using a small block Chevy pump driven off a v-belt setup.
The block of plate on the bottom takes care of the oil issue. The adapters we made up allow oil to flow to the front of the motor, and drain back down. <---I explained that horribly, but can not think of a better way of saying it.
This is how the original GM setup was designed.


I would find off the shelve gears, and modify them to work with your setup. Trust me it will be A TON cheaper that way.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, February 10, 2014 3:54 AM

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Love hearing this thing start up!

I do like the belt sound for some reason.



PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I was woundering if thats where you guys were mounting the tensioner mounting plate or not. I thought the same thing about modding the front mount to be able to put the plate between the block and mount. I understood what you ment you explaned it well enough for me to get the picture. I also love the sound of that belt set up the two cnc guys i know, the one is like the god of cnc but wants big $$$$$$ to do anything. The other is a younger guy like me who builds stuff for his hondas and finds it very interesting to do. I didnt think about compairing to other gears. That is deffanitly a good idea. And just so you are aware my friend im only interested in all this to attempt to build something for my self. I am not trying to step on toes just wanted to point that out that would be amazing if you guys could figure something out for the front mount set up im sure there would be alot of interest in a kit. People would just have to be willing to pay. I think what you guys have the kit priced at online is a fair price thats a good bit of enginering to be done.


I Love My J ♡

The price should be pretty close. There are a lot of custom pieces and/or modified pieces. Anything we find close, has been modified.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

-MD- Enforcer wrote:The price should be pretty close. There are a lot of custom pieces and/or modified pieces. Anything we find close, has been modified.

i figured it would be all damn near custom. Im glad somebody is out there building stuff for the jbodys!


I Love My J ♡

So im gonna be using adjustible cam gears for a b series honda and a crank gear from a b series as well. All that is very common easy to get and affordable to get. I plan on using a b series timing belt, building a plate to mount between block and side mount. Unless the b series timing belt is to long ina buy a honda idler pulley and tapping my plate for the bolt to thread in. Add a nut to the back side with lock tight for safty. Dont want the idler bolt backing out of a 1/4 inch plate. Im not sure what ima use for the tensioner yet as i will plan that out when i see how much slack is in the belt. If its not too much then the plate will extend tword fire wall and i will use a common timing tensioner probaly a honda part and mount it to the plate as well. I will be building the plate out of steel as i can access it and work with it easly. I will make it look nice it will end up smoothed, paintednd and be a nice finished piece. I will make up a crude drawing soon just to make my non-sense make sense lol as for the oiling issue, maybe mike could sell me on of his and rons? :-) havnt thought that part out too much. This will progress slowly because i have bigger fish to fry at the moment. Motor mounts. Exhaust. Body work. Exc. But it will happen.


I Love My J ♡

I cant wait for Ron to finish it up....i did not know MD was in the mix....sweet!

I really want one for my GTZ. Heck the Z24 would love some weight loss too!


GMR has got nothing on this

Its on MD's web site too check it out man!


I Love My J ♡

I should be updating this soon. Most of the parts should be machined soon.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Sweet im looking forward to it


I Love My J ♡

This has my attention

Sorry for being a n00b but what benefits would one have using a belt vs chain? Besides adjustable cam gears....


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires
2005 Mazda 3 GS Auto- Wifes car
2006 Cobalt SS/SC - Intake, 2.5" Exhaust, GMPP Brakes, Solid Mounts, Ported S/C - Sold
1991 GMC Sierra - Lifted on 38.5" Swampers, Too much to list off. For Sale

I was talking to my machinist about this. He said a belt setup is lighter but there is more parastatic drag on the setup where as a chain setup is heavier but much less drag. He seemed to think that asidefrom a chain lasting longer there was no real advantage to either.

hmmm, I never knew there was more drag with a belt. So really, the only advantage is adjustable gears at the cost of more maintenance? Again not knocking the belt idea, just was curious if there was any advantage's to it, I always thought Chain>Belt....


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires
2005 Mazda 3 GS Auto- Wifes car
2006 Cobalt SS/SC - Intake, 2.5" Exhaust, GMPP Brakes, Solid Mounts, Ported S/C - Sold
1991 GMC Sierra - Lifted on 38.5" Swampers, Too much to list off. For Sale

Ron will be re-dyno'ing his engine. This setup is a hell of a lot lighter than the chain setup. It also makes cam gear degree adjustments a ton easier.

I do not see it adding that much drag to neglect the gains from all the lighter rotational parts.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Will the belt be open like in pictures on website? May make changing the belt easier. Interested to see dyno results....


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires
2005 Mazda 3 GS Auto- Wifes car
2006 Cobalt SS/SC - Intake, 2.5" Exhaust, GMPP Brakes, Solid Mounts, Ported S/C - Sold
1991 GMC Sierra - Lifted on 38.5" Swampers, Too much to list off. For Sale

Running a belt set up is way lighter. The effect of more friction or drag from the belt, should be way off set by the weight loss. Plus it will be open making maintance and adjustments way easier. Power is power even if its 5hp im happy. We hardly have anything for aftermarket support so every little inch counts.


I Love My J ♡

So with this set up, are you guys using an electric water pump and oil pump or do we still reuse stock pump? Sorry I read some of the post above and just want to understand it correctly. I am really considering a eco swap but maybe if a few flaws with the ld9 are worked out, I might re consider.... If the pumps and belt are all a 30min or so swap, even if I lost 5hp and I would be interested....


2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires
2005 Mazda 3 GS Auto- Wifes car
2006 Cobalt SS/SC - Intake, 2.5" Exhaust, GMPP Brakes, Solid Mounts, Ported S/C - Sold
1991 GMC Sierra - Lifted on 38.5" Swampers, Too much to list off. For Sale

MD and rons kit and what i am coming up with is two different projects. Just so everybody knows. But we are both gonna be using electric water pumps. Part of the benifit is losing the drag of the water pump as well. The oil pump is crank drivin and nothing changes there but MD and rons set up is using a plate to redirect oil flow and has a crank seal on it. I have not got to that point yet so i havnt adressed that issue as of yet. Hope that helps :-)


I Love My J ♡

Cody summed it up well.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I tried :-)


I Love My J ♡