Latly I've been noticing that the car is quite hard going into gears sometimes. But I kinda overlooked it thinking it was just me not haveing the clutch down all the way but now I am absolutly sure that the clutch is pressed in as much as it can be, and I still seem to grind gears. But its only 3rd gear when Im driving aggressivly, and reverse sometimes. It almost seems to me like the clutch isn't in all the way.. but it is. I'm thinking I just need to make a clutch adjustment... but if thats the case, I'll need some help & instructions from you guys to get me through that!
Jamie
clutch adjustment- there isnt one, its a hydralic system.
reverse is irrelivent, if you havent come to a complete stop for at least 2 seconds before putting it into reverse, it can/will grind. 3rd gear grinding could be the syncro itself, or it could be the hydralics going bad. there are a couple things you can look for for this
-check to make sure your floor mat isnt bunching up under the pedals. it may sound stupid, but usualy about once a month i see this at work (i work in a tranny shop).
-check the fluid level in the clutch resovior, if its low, it has a leak.
-crawl under the dash and look were the rod goes into the slave cylinder. if its wet around that area, your master cylender is leaking.
-check around the slave cylinder and see if its leaking. if it has the slave that mounts to the bellhousing (and not the bracket) unbolt it, pull it out and see if its wet by the pushrod.
if you have a hydralic problem, the clutch will engauge close to the floor. however, it wont always do that, and if anything is leaking, it needs to be replaced. i recomend replacing both the slave and master at the same time, if one goes, the other isnt far behind. now our system is horrible to bleed, and you can get a complete master, slave and line, all pre-assembled and bled from gm. i think its about $150 canadian for it, but a master and slave are $60 each, plus the agrivation of bleeding it. i have spent up to 5 hours bleeding a clutch setup on a beretta, and i know 5 hours of my time is worth a hell of a lot more than $30.
Its a bad syncro.. 3rd gear usually goes before the others in these trans, its made of a different material. I know this because i have the same problem. Let me guess, you can also feel a vibration in the shifter in 3rd gear?
pezed wrote:...Let me guess, you can also feel a vibration in the shifter in 3rd gear?
Actually I never really noticed that but when Im out again I'll check it out. But as for that syncro, that sounds like a big/expensive job am I right
pezed wrote:... Let me guess, you can also feel a vibration in the shifter in 3rd gear?
I dont have that happening to me... but the car is still rough going in 3rd when I'm racing around town. So this brings me back to my question earlier, as for that syncro, is that a big/expensive job?
Last time i looked the syncro set is about $500, i dont know if you can buy a syncro seperately. I planned on just buying another trans form the junkyard.
i've also found its hard to get transmission shops to do any work on a manual trans.. they just want to swap in a used one instead of doing rebuilds. Maybe you will have better luck.
On that trans, the synchros are a dealer only item (I checked with about 5 shops to find them) that run about $370USD each (last time I checked) You can find a used trans from a yard for around $250USD that should be in good shape.
Here's I thought I just had:
The car is now 9 years old and I am it's 4th owner. Within this time, I have know every person who has ever drivin this car and they were all older people (40+) So the car has never been drivin they way I do. Not that I tear it up, but I dont drive like a 40 yr old either! Also, I have come to find out that there has never ever been a new clutch put in this car. So knowing this, I am starting to believe that maybe its just a bad clutch. What do you guys think?
Also, what suggestions would you have to give me in buying a new clutch.
Ex: place of purchase, brand, type, etc. Keep in mind I dont plan on racing this car, just looking for a "slightly-better-than" stock replacement
A bad clutch will not cause grinding of gears, a bad clutch Slips.
if your clutch hydralic system gets air in it then it can cause problems like not being able to get into 1st or reverse.
Grinding of 3rd is just a sign of a worn syncro. 3rd gear is always the first one to go in the HM282/NVGT550
Also just had to add.. 9 years old?? Where did you find a 1996 model 2nd gen!!!
how many miles does your tranny have on it?
-94Custom
<img src="http://www.bstuff.com/uploads/post-14-1121828144.jpg">
94Custom wrote:how many miles does your tranny have on it?
-94Custom
It has 193 000 Kilometers = 120 000 Miles
Jamie Bauld wrote:94Custom wrote:how many miles does your tranny have on it?
-94Custom
It has 193 000 Kilometers = 120 000 Miles
That thing is still brand new! my 5 speed has almost 190,000 miles on it now and it just started grinding 3rd.
You can have issues with the tranny grinding if the clutch isn't completely disengaging when you depress the pedal, but typically it happens in all gears.
Had this happen too me in my old 90' 2.2, ground every shift a little, then the clutch busted and actually jamned engaged, so had too get home by killing it at the lights and starting the car in 1st gear. Domenic's old 89' Z also did the same thing, but it was a different reason. The throwout bearing broke partially, pulled on the shaft it rides on, slid it out of the tranny case, and pressing against the center of the clutch disc, forcing it too stay partially engaged. Did the same thing too that one, drove it too my place by starting in 1st at the lights and just reving until it slipped into gear.
Curtis
91' Turbo Z24
http://www.turboz24.com
