kills me

I've been doing some work on my wagon, and though it running better, I'm
about ready to pull my hair out trying to figure it out..

It still throws a check engine light....though it will turn off after a stretch of driving
I noticed if I take my foot off the gas while driving (slowing down from 30+MPH)
the light pops on. That, and while driving, it seems like once in a while, while
on the gas, it seems like it is having a struggle to stay there.

I"ve tried to get the light checked, but to no avail.

It also still shakes pretty bad at idle, even worse when it is hot (and/or humid)

anybody else have this this issue?

The list of fixes that I can think of at the moment...

Plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel lines, throttle Body cleaning, Fuel system cleaning,


Oh! And I forgot to add while backing up (first time I drove the car that day),
it just stalled out, though it restarted just fine...

I wondering if it could be a sensor or something...

Reason it shakes is most likely engine mounts are going bad. As for the engine light, dunno.

You need to pull the error code from the ECM.. Its a very simple process auto zone and such should pull it for you for free if you dont know how.
From the description you give it sounds like it could be EGR, Map sensor, or TPS.

My car keeps throwing a code under the same conditions, when we pulled it, it bassically said that my cat or map sensor is bad.

i'd check the codes to see what it's sayin. and for the light on decel, i'd have a look at the EGR

Take a crack at the EGR thats would that CEL sounds like.



<img src="http://boner.berettaspeed.com/cavysig.jpg">

pezed wrote:You need to pull the error code from the ECM.. Its a very simple process auto zone and such should pull it for you for free if you dont know how.
From the description you give it sounds like it could be EGR, Map sensor, or TPS.

I've tried, as they haven't been able to pull codes on it. It has days where it stays
on all day, or just a little while. I get annoyed when the all day ones happen when
I can't do a thing about it..

Gotta keep trying..

I am going to try auto zone if I catch it..

Pez, those sound right on...kinda what I'm thinking...

I replaced quite a bit so far...

I have to be careful about pouring money into it so quickly. since it's
drained me a bit from the last set of repairs..

Well you can check a lot of things by yourself.

Map sensor is usually on the firewall on the 2.0, its got a wire harness and a vacuum line running to it. To test it, start the engine and tap the map sensor with a screwdriver handle.. if the engine starts to miss/die then the map needs to be replaced.

TPS : you need a multimeter with a needle on it, not the digital kind.
Take the TPS off the throttle body and put the test meter on the ohms test range (1k ohm range seems to work good) you'll need a helper with this. connect the black meter lead to the middle prong of the TPS and the red to either the left or right one. have someone stick a screwdrver in the TPS and turn it slowly by hand. The needle should move smoothly and not drop at any time. then move the red lead to the other pin and do the same again.

EGR: on the 2.0 i've always just disconnected the thing, its vacuum controlled. all you need to do is get a cap to plug the vacuum port on the intake where it plugs in, or you could just screw a bolt into the vacuum hose etc. take the EGR off the intake and make sure its clean and doesn't have some built up carbon holding it open in the port on the intake. Get a new gasket (they are like 50 cents) and put it back on. A leaking or half open EGR valve is the same thing as having a vacuum leak.

Pez-would that be about the same on my 3.1?

I'm wondering too if it might be a combo...after all, she's got over 130k miles now..

I really want to try that Map sensor test though....

yeah its the same on the 3.1, except the EGR is electronically controled on it instead of vacuum. the TPS is kind of hard to get off on the 3.1 (i usually remove the bottom bolt with a small pair of needle nose vise grips)
Also on the 3.1 the MAP sensor is mounted on the back of the intake plenum and held in place with a clip. its a black rectangular box. about 3x1.5 inches

The light came on-I ran it to autozone-and they couldn't figure out what it was!
Ahhhh!

The black box? I'll have to give that a try...