Ok, here is the deal. A while back I went and bought a complete factory turbo setup from ebay for like $300. It came with the turbo manifold+turbo, the air charge pipe, intake manifold with fuel rails etc., the cylinder head, cam carrier, ecm for a 5speed, all other related stuff. I had to put the turbo head on the car when I replaced the shoft block. Anyway, now the car has no power. I'm not sure if it is because I am using the turbo head or what. Anyway, I have decided to put the turbo stuff on the car to get a little more kick. Now I don't care about the whole your gonna blow it up thing cause I don't really care right now. What I need help with is some information like....
1. The main turbo oil feed that comes out of the oil pump. What size/pitch are the threads?
2. I will need to drill into the oil pan for a turbo return. Where is the best place to locate it?
3. I know about the check valve on the MAP sensor, but what is the best method to add more fuel?
I only plan on running 5-6 PSI so I don't think that it should be that big of a deal. If you have any info or picures, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Paul Moore
Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!
2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!
OK, I guess I'll be the first one to respond and take crap later for anything I say.
1. The oil feed line doesn't go directly into the oil pump. There is a 1/4" pipe thread hole behind the oil pump and water pump area in the block that a pipe threads into. This pipe has an inverted flare fitting at it's end that takes a 5/16" steel line which is bent to fit under the intake manifold, around the side of the head (above the bellhousing and under the distributor) where it joins another steel line that goes to the turbo.
2. Not to be a smart ass but below and inline with the turbo drain back hole, about an inch or so below the pan rail. No tapped hole in the block for a fitting, huh?
3. If you have all the OEM turbo stuff and plan to use it why do you need to add more fuel? Are you thinking because the compression is higher than on an LT3 you need more fuel to keep it from detonating? You could use an adjustable pressure regulator. Maybe retard the initial advance a few degrees. The stock ECM adds a bunch of fuel under boost so you may be OK. If you need a fueling device than get an FMU. I say that because I have a nice one I'd love to sell.
4. If you need more info or pics check Darkmucks LT3 site - www.lt3engine.tk.
We've archived a few pics over time and someone there will be able to get you what you need.
Good luck,
Tony
Tony
1987 Sunbird GT turbo convert
Ported intake, Fiero 53 MM TB, 52 lb inj, ported and flowed head, tube header, Mitsu TD06, ARP rod
bolts/head studs, adj cam sprocket, 4" x 12" x 31" FMIC, Paxton AFPR, modified 125 trans/LSD
unit/3.42's, custom chip tuning, Alky Control Methanol injection
13.61 ET at 101.44 mph, 262 WHP/350WTQ
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP roadster, 2.0 turbo w/GMPP exh, CAI and turbo upgrade, 290 hp/325 ft lbs
1969 Olds 442 convert
400 Eng, 200-4R trans, 3.73 posi, power everything, OAI
Sorry, I guess that I didn't mention that this turbo is going on a N/A 2.0L OHC that's in my 94 sunbird right now. I'm using an N/A short block so I don't have any of the tapped oil feed and drain holes. That is why I figured to use something rom the oil pump itself as the supply, and drill the oil pan for a return. The problem that I have is that I don't have the turbo car wiring harness, the extra associated sensors, etc, and even if i did the ECM is for a 5 speed car and I have an automatic. I need to add more fuel because the current ECM won't add fuel under boost. I plan on using the turbo injectors/fuel rail with the N/A intake manifold. The turbo injectors are a little bigger, and should give me more fuel at the same pressure that the old ones will. Then, I will need some type of boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.. For the ignition side, I am thinking about an MSD DIS 2 wth an inline boost retard and give it 2* retard for every 1 PSI.
Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!
2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!
well Im doing the same thing. you need to tap the oil pan as high as you can get it. that way the oil dont back up in your return line.
As far as the fuel rail goes the fittings for the fuel feed and retun are totally different.
keep the N/A intake. the trottle body is bigger.
Im using the pistons form a turbo bird in mine
no more than your going to be boostin just the turbo injectors should be fine
if you need an oil feed line goto your local auto parts store and get hard brake lines
youll also have to run the highest octain pump gas
people say "you need this" "you need that" but theres ways around anything you just have to figure it out
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